Karls · Dec 25, 2014

I need opinions regarding the rear cross member. You'll see to the right of the towing socket there is a patch of rust and perforations. I intend to cut away and re-plate other rust areas on the chassis but obviously can't do that with the cross member. It doesn't appear too bad and looks to be fairly localised. Should I just fill that area so cosmetically it looks ok?

I'm not against replacing it but the rest looks to be in good nick.

Thoughts please? And Merry Christmas.

Pikey · Dec 25, 2014

Why can't you weld it

Cut an hole out, make a patch to fit in hole, and weld it. Grind weld flat, and patch will be virtually invisible. Bit of filler to smooth it over and jobs a good un.

aaronmorris · Dec 25, 2014

Yeah, that's where all the mud collects so they do that.
I've cut back to good metal and welded a patch in flush before, obviously grind the welds down and once it was painted you'd have never have known.
Don't fill it for f*ck sake, it's just a bodge, and if you're doing a chassis up as it looks, why cut corners.

Karls · Dec 25, 2014

It didn't even occur to me to patch it - durr! Must be the Christmas spirits. Great advice as I really don't want to cut any corners so to speak. Thanks guys - have a good one!

Shifty1962 · Dec 25, 2014

Cut out the rot back to good metal. Make patches to suit and weld them in. Grind off excess weld and paint. Dont bodge with filler as it will only get worse. Or have a chat with Clive (Pressbrake on this forum) at Black Sheep.

wirral_series2a · Dec 25, 2014

My needs some work as well...just look at that dirt on it ! :Cry:

Just having some xmas fun...and we both have GS dogs a well :clap2:

aaronmorris · Dec 25, 2014

wirral_series2a said:
My needs some work as well...just look at that dirt on it ! :Cry:

Just having some xmas fun...and we both have GS dogs a well :clap2:

Bloody show off

pressbrake · Dec 25, 2014

the place where you have the visible hole is a symptom of water getting in somewhere else.

What ive found is that x members that have this damage that are left seem to drain and prevent further chassis damage, but those that are welded seem to suffer worse in the chassis further on if the origin of water ingress(in the substructure not hollow sections) isnt repaired, a bit like dry lining a damp house to hide a problem thats will be made worse by not drying out
ive repaired hundreds of chassis now and my theory is based on first hand knowledge

Tobydog12 · Dec 26, 2014

Mine had been welded in the past as was going again. Recent MOT came up as an advisory for towing. Given I regularly tow a horse box I have just had the rear chassis replaced by a local chap. Good job and I considered worth the investment in the long run given I have had the land for a while and intend to keep. Towing might be a consideration for you and longevity of ownership for current car? regards

Shifty1962 · Dec 26, 2014

pressbrake said:
the place where you have the visible hole is a symptom of water getting in somewhere else.

What ive found is that x members that have this damage that are left seem to drain and prevent further chassis damage, but those that are welded seem to suffer worse in the chassis further on if the origin of water ingress(in the substructure not hollow sections) isnt repaired, a bit like dry lining a damp house to hide a problem thats will be made worse by not drying out
ive repaired hundreds of chassis now and my theory is based on first hand knowledge

Told you he knows what he's taliking about. Happy Xmas mate.

pressbrake · Dec 26, 2014

Shifty1962 said:
Told you he knows what he's taliking about. Happy Xmas mate.

Hope your having a good one too shifty

flat · Dec 26, 2014

To rust like that where else does the water come in? Is it existing drain holes etc in the chassis from road spray/wading etc or is it coming in other rust holes etc? Just wondering as mine rusted like that

Shifty1962 · Dec 26, 2014

pressbrake said:
Hope your having a good one too shifty

Not too bad mate. Cheers

Karls · Dec 29, 2014

OK...here we go. So, taking everyone's excellent advice I went ahead and with my precision scalpel/angle grinder, cut out a neat rectangular-ish shaped piece of the offending cross member. Once removed I was faced with a rust war zone - OMFG! I'm sure the Titanic is in better nick than this!!

So now I could see down inside the chassis leg, well, I could after hoovering out half a Henry's worth of rust flakes (OK, maybe a quarter of a Henry's worth, bear with me, I'm still in shock). I don't think you need to phone a friend to confirm what I found. So more cutting was ordered and eventually I ended up with this (see photos).

The rust had gone through the outer face in places as well, that's why you can see a fresh piece of steel looking like a seagull has took offence to it. Now cut me some slack here as this is my first attempt with my new MIG welder. It welded two bits of shiny together supremely well and I congratulated myself on just how god damn good I was at MIG welding, having never done it before today.

Clearly it didn't go so well when welding new to old, rusty, ****ty stuff. It's a fair sized plate but it's covering a peppering of small rust holes. Looking back now, I guess I should have made a clean run of metal with the grinder where I was going to weld. Anyway, it's on now, I'm not proud of it but it's on. I then welded up the perforations on the other side of this plate and ground the welds back. So from the outside it looks much more happy.

You can see from the pics how much of the leg I've had to cut away. Now, what would wise ones out there suggest? Continue and plate back up (the other leg looks to be much the same) or go for a rear chassis/cross member replacement?

I've got the steel ready in a corner to replate, I just need to find my special welding wand or call Paul Daniels (I was going to say 'or write to Jim'll Fix It' but I'll stick with Paul) so I'm ready to give it a go or should I step back, ask myself if I'm flogging a dead horse and spend £250 on a replacement rear end?

Wise men. What say you?

aaronmorris · Dec 29, 2014

Something like this would make a neater job than patching in several places.
Maybe see if he will do only one side if you don't need them all.
Land rover defender 90 rear chassis repair sections | eBay

Karls · Dec 29, 2014

aaronmorris said:
Something like this would make a neater job than patching in several places.
Maybe see if he will do only one side if you don't need them all.
Land rover defender 90 rear chassis repair sections | eBay

You sir, are a star (or Paul Daniels). Ordered! Top man! Thankyou.

Karls · Dec 29, 2014

aaronmorris said:
Something like this would make a neater job:
Land rover defender 90 rear chassis repair sections | eBay

So now I've ordered these, what do you do about the rear spring mounting brackets etc. is it best to order replacements and weld them onto the new metal or recover the existing ones?

aaronmorris · Dec 29, 2014

If the metal is solid behind the spring hangars then maybe you could cut them to suit and just but them up.
You still wouldn't even know it'd been repaired with it being one continuous piece.

Karls · Dec 29, 2014

What, you mean chop the spring hangers off the existing chassis plate and weld them onto the new plate?

aaronmorris · Dec 29, 2014

Nah, I was thinking leave the spring hangers on and cut the new piece to suit that.
No need to go past the spring hangers if it's good metal, I guess he does it so people have the choice.

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