Ah, I see. I guess it depends on how good the metal is as you say. I know the far side of the spring hanger, the bit I haven't got to yet sounds a bit iffy when tapped. It could be that I use the complete length of new metal. If I did that, would you be inclined to go for new hangers?

I'll have to consider the supports for the rear tub as well.
 
Karls said:
Ah, I see. I guess it depends on how good the metal is as you say. I know the far side of the spring hanger, the bit I haven't got to yet sounds a bit iffy when tapped. It could be that I use the complete length of new metal. If I did that, would you be inclined to go for new hangers?

I'll have to consider the supports for the rear tub as well.
Click to expand...

I'd think you could cut the spring hangers off neatly enough to re-use, but if they're iffy at all I'd replace, I don't know how expensive they are so it might not even be worth messing trying to get them off neatly.
As for the tub supports, the top will likely be solid and you could leave be and fit the rest.
Without seeing the chassis it is hard to say 100%
 
aaronmorris said:
I'd think you could cut the spring hangers off neatly enough to re-use, but if they're iffy at all I'd replace, I don't know how expensive they are so it might not even be worth messing trying to get them off neatly.
As for the tub supports, the top will likely be solid and you could leave be and fit the rest.
Without seeing the chassis it is hard to say 100%
Click to expand...

£23.50 excl VAT ea. (Island 4x4), haven't looked anywhere else yet. I'll have to do a good inspection and go from there.

Thanks for your help so far! :)
 
Much easier to cut the old ones off and renew all the metal. I made templates from cereal boxes when I did mine. Just take your time, cut off all the rot back to good metal, weld it, grind your welds back and paint over it. Looks like new
 
If chassis is like that I would bet the inside of the rear cross member is pretty much the same, they really are ****.
I fitted a pressbrake one to mine, lovely bit of kit and while you have it stripped down a doddle to do.
 
I would look at replacing the rear cross member
I had one from clive and it was great quality and bloody heavy
Although in the end i bit the bullet and replaced the chassis for a new galv one
 
aaronmorris said:
Something like this would make a neater job than patching in several places.
Maybe see if he will do only one side if you don't need them all.
Land rover defender 90 rear chassis repair sections | eBay
Click to expand...

So, I have ordered these from ebay and have been mulling over how to go about fitting them. I'm probably being a dimwit but how would people go about doing this? Would you weld the complete assembly off the vehicle and then attach it or replace each part as you remove the old - I can't quite see how that would be done?
 
Without the rear tub on, you will have no ref points to line up the cross member. Im doing the same at the moment but have made a jig from flat bar running parallel with the chassis rails welded to 2" angle pushed up against the tub brackets on the x member. Mark or drill out the holes in the angle corresponding to the tub brackets then you can cut away at your hearts content. Personally i would stagger the cuts or if you cut the rail of cleanly, plate the insides( if you but them). Not sure if the kit you ordered fits up to or over the chassis rails. More importantly, as pleased as you are with your welds, be sure that they can handle the load put on them. Its ok people saying weld it ten grind it down flat, but without good penetration you will infact be grinding the welds off;)
 
I would suggest you get some more mig practice aswell, you don't want poor penetration on spring mounts aswell lol.
 
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