steve2286w

Well-Known Member
I pulled out the rear axle the other day for a full refurb and paint job
Derusted in a wheelie bin and acid bath for smaller bits
The axle had a couple of filled area on the diff pan, the welds should have come a bit further out as it’s thin at edge of weld I also found some filler towards hub end near upper seam one side , this was removed and a few pinholes seen , I tapped around with punch to see extent of thin area so added a few extra holes
I used a ball pein hammer on rest of diff cover to see where it dented inwards and there is some other thin areas

I have a welding set but am a pretty crap welder

FIX OPTIONS
1. for the seam holes on axle tube seam, weld a couple of strips of metal these would be about 200mm x 20mm
2. DIff pan replace cover with local welding shop to weld cover onto prepared diff flange
3. Additional weld on outside grind down outer and inner welds to tidy up

anyone fitted a diff cover and recommend supplier or comments on above options
 

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I'm not convinced that's structurally sound. At the least I'd be cutting out and replacing a lot of that tube. I'd actually consider adding some bracing, like the armoured series axles used in lightweights and other military vehicles.

The diff pan is available as a weld in part, I think, so I'd replace that too, as you suggest, now is the time.
What welder do you have? MIG, gas type?
 
I'm not convinced that's structurally sound.

+1, sadly. That tube looks pretty shot, and I agree replacement of it is where I'd want to go - sorry.

Diff pan isn't a difficult job - IMO, just some preheat to avoid distortion and bob is .....

The tube might be a good candidate for metal spraying if you have someone local who can do so - the other way is to cut the damage out and replace the section of tube with new metal - I'd avoid patching it if at all possible..
 
Thanks both, I think you’re right if it’s pitted in some locations and it won’t be far behind in others so coming to similar conclusion, my welder is a Clarke 150TE turbo I think , not used for awhile. I should get more practice now retired but welding 2mm cover to the diff thick plate sounds quite hard to make leak free, I’m not sure how thick the tube should be.
A new part would be the way to go, I’m going to ring round a few places tomorow
 
Should be plenty of second ones about....yours is to far gone.....what the rest of the landrover like.....has it spent a lot of time around salt water?
 
Hi I have just welded up my Morris Minor axle, it had holes and the spring location bits wear rotton, maybe not a bad as yours, see photo, but to do yours I think you would need to make a jug to hold it all in place if your plan is to cut a section out and weld in a new piece of pipe, when I worked off shore we offten made a frames to hold a large flanges in place the infill the middle, the fit the pipe and flanges in the place they were made forits all about how much effort you want to spend repaireing an item that can be easily replace fully, mine only took an hour or so a side so a big saving on cost
 

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I have heard of people straightening axle by applying a weld , I would be concrened with that amount to weld on the tube that it may distort the casing.
 
Should be plenty of second ones about....yours is to far gone.....what the rest of the landrover like.....has it spent a lot of time around salt water?
Yes there is a few on eBay, the Salisbury axles seem more common are these a straight swap for the rover type , ie props don’t need changing
I’m on the coast but it’s not a sea coal wagon.
 
Hi I have just welded up my Morris Minor axle, it had holes and the spring location bits wear rotton, maybe not a bad as yours, see photo, but to do yours I think you would need to make a jug to hold it all in place if your plan is to cut a section out and weld in a new piece of pipe, when I worked off shore we offten made a frames to hold a large flanges in place the infill the middle, the fit the pipe and flanges in the place they were made forits all about how much effort you want to spend repaireing an item that can be easily replace fully, mine only took an hour or so a side so a big saving on cost

cutting out each side and replacing with pipe had not even crossed my mind, if I had the welding skills it would be worth a shot , nice repair to the moggy
 
What axle is it you are after rear SWB or LWB Rover I assume. I have a mate at Wingate who may have one let me know which your afer and I will message him.
 
Thanks both, I think you’re right if it’s pitted in some locations and it won’t be far behind in others so coming to similar conclusion, my welder is a Clarke 150TE turbo I think , not used for awhile. I should get more practice now retired but welding 2mm cover to the diff thick plate sounds quite hard to make leak free, I’m not sure how thick the tube should be.
A new part would be the way to go, I’m going to ring round a few places tomorow
I welded a new diff pan on mine, I did a good enough job that is does not leak, but some areas required going over twice. I welded it on, filled it with oil and then rewelded the damp patched of seam having cleaned it off with brake cleaner. Few years later and it is still holding up leak free. However I agree that unfortunately I would be looking at a replacement axle. They are not expensive s/h and you can get both full complete axles and just the tubes readily on ebay.
A salisbury would be a nice upgrade if you can find one that the diff is in good condition, but it would require a new prop of the correct length as well.
 
Fitting a Salisbury rear axle to a short wheel base Series Landrover requires fairly major modifications to the spring mounts and bump stops areas. It is not a straightforward swap. By far the easiest solution is to swap the axle case with a better one.
 
Stripped the leaf springs this week, bust a clamp on the drivers side but had some steel and 3/8 round head rivets left over when I did the front, also surprised to see 2 broken leaves on passenger side. I will chop down the 2nd lower spring and have one spring less on each side.
The springs I have cup brushed, anti rust prep and some cheap anti galv spray. I will assemble with waxoyl in between the leaves.

Had a trip to the LR parts near York today got a boot full of bits inc a new SWB
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flat bottom diff case which matches mine, not cheap but as the newest 2nd hand ones are over 35 years old a good decision for me.
 

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