V

VirginDiscovery

Member

• Sep 8, 2018

• #1

As per title
MOT imminent and had an advisory on the rear drop link - rubber perished. Thought it be good to replace.
got the replacements ready - Mehle HD ones but of course a different design. the ones fitted have the dreaded 5mm torx and nut at the bottom, double nut(?) at the top.
Soaked them for weeks now in penetrating fluid - cant shift. bought windy gun, wont fit, bought nut spinner, not enough grunt. Cant fit a nut breaker in the lower one so now resorting to cutting it off, but how and where without damamaging the main ARB. I can pull myself off the ground with a breaker bar and yes I am undoing the correct way
Its a 2003 ACE version and the nuts are 18mm.
How does every one else do it?
Thanks in advance

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Sep 8, 2018

• #2

slitting disc and cut them off

 

V

VirginDiscovery

Member

• Sep 8, 2018

• #3

jamesmartin said:

slitting disc and cut them off

Click to expand...

Thanks,
Is the ARB itself flat on top(as underneath looks like a captive nut?) and I can use that as a guide cutting through the top one?
And then the bottom is the ARB not flat as looks like a raised ring that the bolt goes though? So cut through the bolt but not the mount?
Newby questions I know but always learnt to check twice before cutting

 

doriz

Well-Known Member

• Sep 8, 2018

• #4

Not the same truck but my MOT had an advisory for a loose ARB drop link, tester said tighten that up (what a laugh) couldn't have done anything with the thing if I'd been superman. Anyway when he retested it because I had clearly dislodged the wax oil on the nut he assumed I'g buttoned it up, he even commenting on how that must have been difficult - I nearly gave myself a hernia taking the waxoil off. So adding this to the list, I will at some point run an angle grinder through the fixing and replace the lot.

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Sep 8, 2018

• #5

VirginDiscovery said:

Thanks,
Is the ARB itself flat on top(as underneath looks like a captive nut?) and I can use that as a guide cutting through the top one?
And then the bottom is the ARB not flat as looks like a raised ring that the bolt goes though? So cut through the bolt but not the mount?
Newby questions I know but always learnt to check twice before cutting

Click to expand...

if unsure cut the bolt a little off arb then grind back till it drops off you can cut nut or the other side

 

V

VirginDiscovery

Member

• Sep 8, 2018

• #6

jamesmartin said:

if unsure cut the bolt a little off arb then grind back till it drops off you can cut nut or the other side

Click to expand...

Thanks..... boldy under the Disco I go....

 

V

VirginDiscovery

Member

• Sep 8, 2018

• #7

so boldly I went...but its still fighting me! drop link removed or at least lower one is. Cut through but nut and stud still refuse to push/come out (little room to swing tool adjuster). Is the 'top hat' that the bolt goes through part of the rear axle or is that sacrificial \9s part of the old drop link) and I can cut through that as well - seemingly the stud is rust welded into it- stud portion is level with it and using a drift on the centre stud to push towards the locking nut ie out to wheel making no impression.
New Mehle drop link doesnt have it so am assuming part of the axle?

pic

 

Last edited: Sep 8, 2018

V

VirginDiscovery

Member

• Sep 12, 2018

• #8

Finally success and the reason why it wouldn't drift through. The 'top hat' was actually a washer and then the stud has flare rather than a taper

 

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Spot1

Well-Known Member

• Sep 12, 2018

• #9

Guess I was luckier than I thought then.... I just put a 17mm open ended spanner on the flats of the drop link and a 19mm socket and breaker bar on the nut and hit the bar with a mallet and then undid them.... tho the threads were a bit rusted beyond the nuts so made it tight going but just brushed them off to start with and soaked WD40 a few times.

 

Jamiegreen

Well-Known Member

• Sep 12, 2018

• #10

Just try not to do what I did and cut it off with a 1mm disc and no guard on the grinder.. It wasn't worth the 5 hours in A&E and having my knuckle stitched back together

and the bastard thing still didn't come out

 

gstuart

D3 Grandad

Full Member

• Sep 12, 2018

• #11

When I had to cut my drop links off I used a dremel with the fexable shaft and thin cut off discs

Only took about 10x mins each side , simples

 

V

VirginDiscovery

Member

• Sep 13, 2018

• #12

forgot to add
Dont leave the now disconnected arb overnight....went down next morning and found the arb had moved upwards about 3 or 4 inches.....cue find ratchet strap to pull it back into position.
Now to do the other side which is more difficult to crawl under because of the axle diff and ACE on the top. Oh 'tis fun owning one of these.

Rave implies the nuts need doing up to 100NM on the lower and 50 on the upper, I can get to 50 on the lower but no more (need more spinach) - is that enough?

 

Jamiegreen

Well-Known Member

• Sep 13, 2018

• #13

VirginDiscovery said:

forgot to add
Dont leave the now disconnected arb overnight....went down next morning and found the arb had moved upwards about 3 or 4 inches.....cue find ratchet strap to pull it back into position.
Now to do the other side which is more difficult to crawl under because of the axle diff and ACE on the top. Oh 'tis fun owning one of these.

Rave implies the nuts need doing up to 100NM on the lower and 50 on the upper, I can get to 50 on the lower but no more (need more spinach) - is that enough?

Click to expand...

100nm I didn't know they had to go that tight, when I did mine I just done then up fairly tight with a half inch ratchet, I didn't think those joints were made to go that tight. Never had a problem though.