@Turboman
Between wolverley and caunston
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Nice stretch of cut
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See priority on the packing/loading. Beer always first to hand.
Well I guess you found the beginnings of your next job
Wasn’t that the 1 you put new boot on? And wasn’t that the 1 test that I couldn’t get my head round last time? (Need to look back)
Don’t know the design in there but if it was the 1 you rebooted it looked ok at the time, are those tripoid(or what ever they are called) splined on the shaft too similar to the cvs on the props?
Think it’s look in the manual time
Oh and as for your “sanity check” yep we are all insane don’t worry
Good luck
J
Never noticed the other side.
I marked up your pic(crudely) and it’s further in then, shaft to diff? Is that the long side?
I reckon the problem is the red areas because the blue arrow marked part doesn’t turn.
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Are you still driving it? Not sure that’s a good idea.
J
2 new front shafts then?
What’s in that kit, as the actual outer shafts are ok? It’s from those thiriod things to diff that appears the problem.
Don’t have manual to ref. (So May make up names at random)
J
You can only get the outer cv joints as a kit. I'm looking at these
As always you need the whole thing it’s a stitch up job.
Not as bad in price as I was expecting I must admit though.
J
Great thread and will have a proper read in a minute
Wished to add, battery MUST always be disconnected as the suspension will move on it own , regardless if ign is on or not
These vehicles when alarmed will keep waking up and do a self level check
Hope u didn’t mind me saying
They ain't gkn though
May have bigger problems to be honest. Cleaned up all the grime at the back end while wheels are off. Scraping dry mud and surface rust and came across a dodgy bit. I made this hole with a small blunt screwdriver.
Rear wheel arch/floorpan, within 30cm of body mount and 2nd row seat mount
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I could find more I suspect
The vehicle may not be worth keeping gents
Ohhhh pooo
J