lhandrover

lhandrover

Active Member
Hi - I'm thinking about getting a Range Rover and wondered if there was a reasonable consensus on which engine/gearbox is considered the most reliable. Or for that matter, which Range Rover is the most reliable. I've had all the Defenders (only up to TD5) and Discoveries (only up to 3.0v6) and I had all the usual issues but the worst was the Disco 3 even though it was the nicest to drive. I'm not looking to spend lots so I realise that in itself might be the start of my woes ;)

Any advise gratefully received, even if its just "Don't" - I searched for a buyers guide but couldnt find one but a pointer to that would help too
 
The L322 is considered better than more modern RR and the 4.4tdv8 is considered the best offering in the range
But it all depends on what you want and your budget
 
Plus 1 , indeed cheap and Land Rover in the same sentence never match

also have to consider insurance as this year many premiums have doubled so would at least check that beforehand in what u decide
 
out of curiosity checked a quote for a TDV8 4.4 , 2010 FFRR , valued at 7k , 5000 mile limit , clean licence and 12 x years protected NCB

IMG_7386.jpeg
 
The first question should be which is the least unreliable:rolleyes: The second question should be which is the easiest and cheapest to fix when it goes wrong.:rolleyes::rolleyes: For me, the answer to both questions is the P38 diesel, but since you have had a D3, no doubt you hanker after something more modern and complicated:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
P38 2.5 with r380 is my vote for reliability, doesn’t mean it’s most suitable for you personally. I’ve worked 2 TD5s to death from new. Also a hilux. The P38 never surrendered but all being 20-30 years old they will have their issues, same as a brand new RR has theirs.
If you’re a D3 fan you’ll like a RRS for sure.
 
Datatek said:
The first question should be which is the least unreliable:rolleyes: The second question should be which is the easiest and cheapest to fix when it goes wrong.:rolleyes::rolleyes: For me, the answer to both questions is the P38 diesel, but since you have had a D3, no doubt you hanker after something more modern and complicated:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
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+1.

P38A with the M51 is pretty reliable, although the VM in the Classic was OK too. I'd steer away from the TD6 in the L322 but the 4.4 v8 is not bad. However it is thirsty enough that you might as well do yourself a favour and get a model with the Jag v8 petrol in it.
 
Hahahaha... This one question will give you a million answers... The worst part is that they are all right.. or wrong.. Depends on where you stand. For me, a classic with a 200 or 300tdi is the simplest and most reliable, but if you wanted something more modern with comfort and power then without a doubt in my mind its a L322 TDV8 up until the digit dash.. I've owned countless classics, P38s (which I personally hate!) and a couple of L322's. My 2007 has been pretty much trouble free, I had a gearbox flush which caused some issues but thats now sorted, I also had a power drain that turned out to be an amp, but other then that its been an amazing car. If you go for a TDV8 then be mindful that they can suffer with turbo failure and its not a cheap fix, like every car, service history is important. I think it probably comes down to what you want to spend and how good you are with a spanner. I'm terrible with electronics is why I despise the P38..... I'm sure someone will be along soon to tell me I'm wrong.... or right.....
 
Rallymantony said:
Hahahaha... This one question will give you a million answers... The worst part is that they are all right.. or wrong.. Depends on where you stand. For me, a classic with a 200 or 300tdi is the simplest and most reliable, but if you wanted something more modern with comfort and power then without a doubt in my mind its a L322 TDV8 up until the digit dash.. I've owned countless classics, P38s (which I personally hate!) and a couple of L322's. My 2007 has been pretty much trouble free, I had a gearbox flush which caused some issues but thats now sorted, I also had a power drain that turned out to be an amp, but other then that its been an amazing car. If you go for a TDV8 then be mindful that they can suffer with turbo failure and its not a cheap fix, like every car, service history is important. I think it probably comes down to what you want to spend and how good you are with a spanner. I'm terrible with electronics is why I despise the P38..... I'm sure someone will be along soon to tell me I'm wrong.... or right.....
Click to expand...
The electronics on the P38 are a piece of cake compared to the L322.
 
Td6 engine wise is quite hassle free, but noisey and still a bit underpowered and not that great on fuel gearbox will go one day servicing will prolong it but the inevitable will happen,
Electrics are simple enough few odd bits that can bring other modules down but nothing too bad pre 2007 with the earlier electronics are a bit simpler then a d3,

After 80k miles in just over 3year in my td6 it was time to treat myself too somthing nicer i had always considered a 3.6tdv8 but the more i paid attention to owners pages with egrs and turbos it worried me that much it would go bang randomly if i got one
A 4.4tdv8 was more then id want too pay for a vehicle (although the skid car owes me 3x my RR and i lauch it at barriers for fun) so i went with my initial idea of a 4.2 supercharged,

Almost a year and almost 30k miles into it and iv had a few bits but it was a chance on a 3k motor
Randomly put itself into transport mode once
Rear brake pipes
A set of brake pads
Whining front diff got worse i never noticed it as it started on high load/speed situations
A gearbox cooler pipe
And a pas pipe (which resulted in making the pas pump whiney)
Starter motor.
And the heated steering wheels stopped working,

It gets jumped in and used every day, it tows, wheels and tools for my drift car get thrown in it,
 
Last edited:
kermit_rr said:
I would say.. p38 older gen electricks are less reliable but easier for someone to fix.. l322 newer gen electricks is more reliable but harder to fix,
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I would have to disagree with that. On the L322 modules are on a ring system, if one module goes down it can affect all the others, this is not the case with the P38. P38 failures are often due to water ingress and the same applies to the L322, the P38 electronics are basically reliable.
 
Datatek said:
I would have to disagree with that. On the L322 modules are on a ring system, if one module goes down it can affect all the others, this is not the case with the P38. P38 failures are often due to water ingress and the same applies to the L322, the P38 electronics are basically reliable.
Click to expand...
I had my stereo kill my instrument cluster but they speak too eachother, and bcm when it was shutting down with a chaffed wire on the body for an interior light it shut down the air suspension and heater panel, and dial lighting, only took 15mins of diy time to figure out though, id say theres good and bad in both from personal experiences
 
stustrong said:
I had my stereo kill my instrument cluster but they speak too eachother, and bcm when it was shutting down with a chaffed wire on the body for an interior light it shut down the air suspension and heater panel, and dial lighting, only took 15mins of diy time to figure out though, id say theres good and bad in both from personal experiences
Click to expand...
OK for you as you have the skill to fault find the problem, many others do not.
 
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