Ok... that was slightly terrifying... the next step is complete I removed the rubber guides and then tried to remove the clutch packs... they didn’t want to budge! Had to tip the gearbox up and the weight pushed them out a fair way but they seemed to get stuck and I had to waddle them out with great difficulty, the round spinney thing (that is the technical term) in the first three pics fell to bits as I pulled it out after the clutch packs.... is this normal?!?! I pushed it all back together as it is filled with smaller spiky spinney things.... also the bits in pictures 5 and 6 just seemed to randomly fall out of somewhere.... not a bloody clue where they went...... also I have noticed there is some pitting marks on the inside of the casing I assume this is not a contact area as it where the clutch pack housing sits into the casing but thought best to check... going to pull the other end off now and see what falls out!
87A7F2CB-9ED4-4B5B-873D-35053365385D.jpeg
6AB5F1DD-07BB-46C5-93D0-E4022670ECA9.jpeg
9C4373C0-0FCC-412C-931F-50B3A8235A26.jpeg
3FA903F7-E820-4F88-B1DD-2731B3D74681.jpeg
B52E8FB5-4944-4E99-BA26-4149758202A8.jpeg
5ADD95DA-D12F-4D0F-BCFE-1715102AED60.jpeg
AEC7271B-08BF-4C35-9EF9-044BFD3FA145.jpeg
 
All looking good so far, Pete.

I suspect the pitting marks are just porosity in the casing that’s been exposed when it was machined.

Aren’t all 666 components in the 5HP24 an absolute joy to behold?

Phil
 
All looking good so far, Pete.

I suspect the pitting marks are just porosity in the casing that’s been exposed when it was machined.

Aren’t all 666 components in the 5HP24 an absolute joy to behold?

Phil
666 components... that proves it!! these things are the work of the devil!!! I must admit I am quite enjoying doing it... I have no idea what I’m really doing or what the bits do... but I’m having fun nevertheless! It really is an amazing thing to take apart! I just think it’s a shame that when it’s all back together and in the car you can’t really appreciate how amazing it is
 
Hi Phil @Bemble i have got a little further but have got a bit stuck it’s with the countersunk screws.... they will not budge at all!! I have broke both of my T40 tools trying to undo them, I’m not sure how to carry on I managed to get the snap ring off and remove the shaft but Cylinder F is still in place... Typical that I get right to the end and hit a bloody wall.... at the risk of sounding stupid are they by any chance left hand threaded... :rolleyes: once I get the F cylinder out I’m ready to bring it all up to you for the once over Phil. Please everyone.... control your jealousy...:D
D31F9860-F456-481A-B7F7-4A12331333A4.jpeg
57C5C0F1-B20E-4499-B761-316EF2D5ACD6.jpeg
 
The only problem i had was with the 4 silver ones you show which are as soft as sh1te and we drilled the heads off and replaced them but i think the countersunk ones came out ok. I have an impact driver that you can hit with a hammer but you could try a new bit and give each one a 'tap' on the end of the bit before trying to undo them or wait until Phil does it for you using Psychokineses

The Torx set i have is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK...587866&hash=item5b111bdf1a:g:pRUAAOSwPhdVQPuF
i used that with a 1/2" bar.
You could get yourself nice impact type socket and driver, this is the one i have
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/hand-impact-driver/263352254637?hash=item3d510480ad:g:RCAAAOSwuspY~cOq
 
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Pete,

The screws have a standard right-hand thread. In my posts on stripping the 5HP24 (e.g. http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post319415.html#319415) I recommend undoing these countersunk screws first, while all the weight of the transmission is still in it, and striking the screw heads a couple of times with a drift & hammer first to try to break the friction on the countersink. If they still won’t shift and the Torx socket strips then you have to drill them out (they're quite soft). You have to be careful not to drill through into the F-brake piston though. I can sort this out for you if you like.

F-brake%20screws_zps4m8nwxho.jpg


Phil
 
If you’re after further entertainment once it’s stripped down, Pete, I can strongly recommend working out which part of the hydraulic circuit is fed by each worm track in the valve body assembly, and the function of every restrictor/orifice in the duct plate sheet. It’s difficult to imagine what could be more fun than this.

5-4%20Overlap_zpsryy66yuw.jpg


DuctPlate_zps2fc041c8.jpg


Summary%20-%20Duct%20Plate%20-%20Bottom_zpsog1imy3c.jpg


1058%20327%20070%20Front_zpscfuztjfj.jpg


1058%20327%20070%20Rear_zps2difzvub.jpg


Phil
 
looking back at my receipt it was those that i replaced as some of them rounded out if they are the F drum ones and we drilled them out.
sussex auto.jpg
 
Pete,

The screws have a standard right-hand thread. In my posts on stripping the 5HP24 (e.g. http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post319415.html#319415) I recommend undoing these countersunk screws first, while all the weight of the transmission is still in it, and striking the screw heads a couple of times with a drift & hammer first to try to break the friction on the countersink. If they still won’t shift and the Torx socket strips then you have to drill them out (they're quite soft). You have to be careful not to drill through into the F-brake piston though. I can sort this out for you if you like.

F-brake%20screws_zps4m8nwxho.jpg


Phil
Thanks Phil I am glad they can be drilled I was a bit worried as I have slightly chewed one of the heads up! If it comes to drilling them I will definitely leave that up to you as I’m about as delicate as a baby elephant! Will give it another go tomorrow and see what happens, I was pretty sure they would be a right hand thread as there is no real reason for them to be a lefty but always best to check, thanks for all the help Phil, let me know when would be best to bring it up to you as I’ll just fit in with what’s best for you,
Cheers Pete
 
The only problem i had was with the 4 silver ones you show which are as soft as sh1te and we drilled the heads off and replaced them but i think the countersunk ones came out ok. I have an impact driver that you can hit with a hammer but you could try a new bit and give each one a 'tap' on the end of the bit before trying to undo them or wait until Phil does it for you using Psychokineses

The Torx set i have is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK...587866&hash=item5b111bdf1a:g:pRUAAOSwPhdVQPuF
i used that with a 1/2" bar.
You could get yourself nice impact type socket and driver, this is the one i have
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/hand-impact-driver/263352254637?hash=item3d510480ad:g:RCAAAOSwuspY~cOq
Yeah the silver ones came off no probs but the counter sunk ones are having none of it!!!
 
No envy here,
I have a lovely H/D hand operated impact driver that never fails, particularly with the really expensive S2 hardened bits! :cool:;)
My torx set has hardened tips it was actually the handles that shattered from the amount of torque I applied, the actual heads didn’t strip!
 
looking back at my receipt it was those that i replaced as some of them rounded out if they are the F drum ones and we drilled them out.
View attachment 136163
I think they will need drilling out, I attached a locking monkey wrench onto the handle to get more leverage but the handles shattered then I used the wrench on the justvthe metal bar and that snapped, fair play to the hardened head.. that’s unmarked... perhaps they should have hardened the whole thing and not just the tip!
 
No envy here,
I have a lovely H/D hand operated impact driver that never fails, particularly with the really expensive S2 hardened bits! :cool:;)
The envy is definitely not over my naff tools.... I meant the fact that I get to take my gearbox to the guru himself... in person!! Oh yes, feel special I do!
 
Yeah I know:(
We'd all love to visit Phil's shop but he'd need to clear the decks what with this bad batch of optical illusion trousers that's doing the rounds.........
 
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