I've examined it carefully, particularly now that it's dry, and the leak seems to be coming from the middle and to the right of the centre of the radiator, you can sort of see the damp patch darker in the photo. I'll need to take it out to have a look- what's in there, is it piping, and should it be practical it patch it up?
In terms of the fan belt, how much slack should there be on that? I'm able to pull it a bit with my hands but it does seem to be on. Is this the reason for that charge light coming on as it overheats?
In terms of the fan belt, how much slack should there be on that? I'm able to pull it a bit with my hands but it does seem to be on. Is this the reason for that charge light coming on as it overheats?
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
The only practical way is to solder it. The vertical stripes are pipes and if your lucky and one of the outer pipes has a small hole it is possible to repair. You can even solder a small copper patch over a larger hole but it isn't an easy job and you can't test it without more equipment so there are no guarantees until it's back on and hot. Epoxy filler is used but more as an emergency get you home job and rarely lasts long.
You can also get a specialist to recore it and change all the matrix for new but this is about the same as a new rad.
The belt is the first check for your charge light issue. It could be steam from the leak causing the issue but if it persists after the leak is fixed then check the belt only has 10mm flex either way on its longest free length. Check the alternator is completely solid on its mounts and the adjuster arm bolts are tight. Then it's testing its output. If it's original it should be chucking out around 35 amps at 14.5 volts. If that is OK it's down to testing the wiring.
You can also get a specialist to recore it and change all the matrix for new but this is about the same as a new rad.
The belt is the first check for your charge light issue. It could be steam from the leak causing the issue but if it persists after the leak is fixed then check the belt only has 10mm flex either way on its longest free length. Check the alternator is completely solid on its mounts and the adjuster arm bolts are tight. Then it's testing its output. If it's original it should be chucking out around 35 amps at 14.5 volts. If that is OK it's down to testing the wiring.
If I can't repair the radiator are these plastic replacements any good?
http://www.paddockspares.com/577609-radiator-2286cc-4cyl-standard-type-3-core.html
http://www.paddockspares.com/577609-radiator-2286cc-4cyl-standard-type-3-core.html
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I fitted one in mine with plastic top and bottom but aluminium matrix. Not from paddocks.
It does the job but I had to re drill the mounting holes to make it fit. Or at least to get the bonnet down.
Still went in but now it takes much longer for the heater to warm up. I hate to think how blocked up the old one was.
I did have 4 Britpart ones delivered before this from paddocks but the packaging was so bad each one had its lower hose connector/stub destroyed.
Eventually I gave up and got a champion one off eBay but the packaging was spot on.
It does the job but I had to re drill the mounting holes to make it fit. Or at least to get the bonnet down.
Still went in but now it takes much longer for the heater to warm up. I hate to think how blocked up the old one was.
I did have 4 Britpart ones delivered before this from paddocks but the packaging was so bad each one had its lower hose connector/stub destroyed.
Eventually I gave up and got a champion one off eBay but the packaging was spot on.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
The paddocks one is a Britpart rad. I couldn't recommend anything from Britpart as they are the cheapest quality out there but having said that, good as a budget alternative. It won't last anything like the original.
Recoring is good if originality is important and should be as good as the original.
After that it's pot luck. The one I fitted does what it says on the tin but I also changed the front panel at the same time. This sounded like a good idea at the time as I liked the idea of an alloy series 1 front panel but it took quite a bit of reworking to make it fit in a series 2.
Bearmach branded rads are slightly better quality than Britpart as in 99% of their whole range of parts and not much more money.
However I always phone the supplier first these days as even paddocks used to advertise Bearmach parts and send out Britpart. They usually blame stock photographs but it's not on when you want to avoid the cheapest makes. I actually chose paddocks for the Bearmach one and was very dissatisfied when a Britpart box turned up. Like I say, 4 returns later I gave up and got my money back but by this time I had to get back on the road and plumped for a champion made one off eBay.
Recoring is good if originality is important and should be as good as the original.
After that it's pot luck. The one I fitted does what it says on the tin but I also changed the front panel at the same time. This sounded like a good idea at the time as I liked the idea of an alloy series 1 front panel but it took quite a bit of reworking to make it fit in a series 2.
Bearmach branded rads are slightly better quality than Britpart as in 99% of their whole range of parts and not much more money.
However I always phone the supplier first these days as even paddocks used to advertise Bearmach parts and send out Britpart. They usually blame stock photographs but it's not on when you want to avoid the cheapest makes. I actually chose paddocks for the Bearmach one and was very dissatisfied when a Britpart box turned up. Like I say, 4 returns later I gave up and got my money back but by this time I had to get back on the road and plumped for a champion made one off eBay.
LordOWar
Well-Known Member
The cooling fins on the first rad are shot, I bet if you rub them they just crumble to copper dust. Just looked at the original one and the cooling fins on that one aren't much better. An easy way to leak test a rad is to put the cap back on then get a cycle inner tube cut it and use jubilee clips to put the inner tube on the inlet and out let pipes on the rad. Stick the rad in water and use the valve on the inner tube to pump some air into the rad bubbles from the rad = bad.
kommer2013
Active Member
the first one shouldnt be too bad
Last edited:
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
IT looks like it would fit but as said its down to leaks and how long it's going to be on for. Not long by the sound of it so it should be fine. Don't poke the fins about too much but you could run a hose pipe over the core to free a few flies and crud.
You don't need much cooling for pottering about but get the re cored one in as soon as possible.
You don't need much cooling for pottering about but get the re cored one in as soon as possible.
kommer2013
Active Member
you should undo the engine block drain-cock
Last edited:
I've replaced the radiator with a reconditioned one but I still seem to be losing water (though significantly less). Can't see any leaks from the new radiator- were some leaks from the hoses but have tightened/replaced some of the clips and can't see any leaking but still seem to be losing water though fairly slowly. What levels is full for the radiator? When I filled it up to the neck and left it a few days, with maybe 5 miles driving a day, it took about 2 litres to fill it back up again.
