Did you pre fill the rad as much as you can first .
When the pipes are back on and you have filled up the header tank pull off the bleed pipe rad end attach a hose of your own and a funnel when the engine is running keep filling the pipe you have pushed on with a funnel attached at the other end when no more water goes in and bubbles stop comming out its ready , these cars have a habit of getting up to temp and beyond before the air has has a chance to escape from the system especially if the original bleed pipe is half blocked .
Plus it's the quickest eat to fill the rad to supply the water pump via the left top hose
2498E834-CBB4-469B-B0A9-604038CC4119-1871-000002573D677D4C.jpg
 
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Thats not right!
Try with the engine off keep the level up and water should eventualy come out of that pipe
Make sure the cap it higher than the rad! Raise the back end if you have too! squise the water pipes to check there no air in them
But if its coming out of the cap when engine running its eather the pump or head gasket
 
gfromleeds said:
Thats not right!
Try with the engine off keep the level up and water should eventualy come out of that pipe
Make sure the cap it higher than the rad! Raise the back end if you have too! squise the water pipes to check there no air in them
But if its coming out of the cap when engine running its eather the pump or head gasket
Click to expand...

Next time you have you rad off or empty the water fill up the rad as much as you can remove left top pipe to water pump and see how long it takes for the rad to fill up even with the header tank top up until its stops a reasonable level ;);)
 
That dont conferm anything
The rangerover h/g usualy go between cylinders or into water channels so wouldent affect oil
 
I will try them things in a bit when I get back. It does start and run absolutely fine so hoping its just an airlock or water pump failure
 
shaunm41 said:
I put in a 50/50 mix

I think I may be inclined to go down the boiling route... As it starts off slow after been running a few mins then more and more bubbles as minutes go on, as a kettle would

Also once I turn off the engine I can hear it boiling inside the pipes

I'm thinking water pump was the problem all along....

Heaters also blow cold on hottest setting
Click to expand...

The boiling in the pipes would be boiling in the pipe from head feeding the rad as there is not enough water behind it to feed the rad and fill it to replemish the water pump you must ensure the rad is full as much as you can from the left top pipe re fix pipe and attach a pipe as I suggested earlier to feed the rad .. The water pump isn't getting as much water its needed untill the rad is full enough to feed the water pump even tho header tank is full! its a bad design, as most feed pipes to water pump are on the bottom of the rad hence plenty of water when you rad is full by filling funnel as you hold it up no more water will enter as the system will be full and if you wait with your antifreeze showing through the transparent pipe you will soon see bubbles comming out as the air is pushed out .once the air stops and you know the rad is not taking in any more antifreeze mix as the transparent pipe will stay visable and stable .
You can remove and refit your original bleed pipe know what has exactly going on rather looking thorough black pipes wondering what's going on !
 
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I have parked the car slightly down hill and filled from header tank until it came out of where the little pipe fits on top left. Run it and its still the same. Defo no circulation

Going to take water pump off tomorrow see if that's faulty.. Perhaps the blades have fallen off ?

It's boiling but not circulating
 
shaunm41 said:
I have parked the car slightly down hill and filled from header tank until it came out of where the little pipe fits on top left. Run it and its still the same. Defo no circulation

Going to take water pump off tomorrow see if that's faulty.. Perhaps the blades have fallen off ?

It's boiling but not circulating
Click to expand...
The plastic impellers come loose on the shaft and/or disintegrate, replace it with a metal one and while you are at it take the stat out and suspend it in a pan of boiling water and see if it opens fully, many do not.
I did suggest you do the pump when you changed the RAD in post #6.
 
I have it all working now. There is a piece of plastic about 10mm square that I can't find anywhere. I've tried my best to find it but I can't. Is that likely to cause problems?
 
Well, made a 200 mile round trip with caravan without going above half way on temp gauge. So I would assume its fixed.
 
Well done mate :clap2::clap2:
just hope mines as easy when i get time to do it
6day weeks for the last 2 months are not fun
 
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