shaunm41

New Member
Just on way home after a weekend away with new twin axel caravan and the rad blew on p38. (2000 DHSE auto)

Ordered a bearmach one. They offered a britpart but I refused that.. Are bearmach ones ok?

It over heated while towing van home last week only the once and cooled straight down again been fine since now it over heated and popped rad. Never any problem when not towing

Is te rad the probable cause?

Thanks

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Or head gasket-refit and check that it isn't pressurising
 
There is a somewhat dimwitted piping network within the radiator, so the hot and cold water pipes interact and this creates strain, and eventually it fails.
If you're replacing it yourself, it's a relatively simple job, although removing the viscous fan can be a bit of a pain due to access
 
While you have the RAD out, change the water pump and stat, also check the viscous fan is OK.
 
How will I know if it has the baffle?
Drop a marble in though one of the hose entries, tilt the RAD and see if you can make it come out of the other hose entry, if it does, the RAD is NBG, if it doesn't it should be OK.:)
 
Replaced rad, thermostat and header tank expansion cap.. But its stil heading up towards red line.. viscous Fan doesn't seem to kick in anymore, But an electric fan at front kicks in instead..

Perhaps the fan packed in causing the initial problem? Both rad hoses get hot so im assuming its flowing ok..
 
Replaced rad, thermostat and header tank expansion cap.. But its stil heading up towards red line.. viscous Fan doesn't seem to kick in anymore, But an electric fan at front kicks in instead..

Perhaps the fan packed in causing the initial problem? Both rad hoses get hot so im assuming its flowing ok..
Duff viscous fan is a common problem, take a tightly rolled newspaper and with the engine up to temperature stick the newspaper into the fan blades (mind your hand), if the fan slows or stops it's shot.
Electric rans are comming on with the overheat. Fit my mod to bring on the fans as cooling before it overheats and you needn't bother to replace the viscous, just remove it and the cowl.
 
Even with temp up about 3/4 I can stop the fan with my hand... Although it locks in briefly when first started like it used to do..

I put my hand on the rad and it was hot but not burning hot. Where does the viscous fan get its reading from?

Only one electric fan out of the 2 works, Is this right?
 
Even with temp up about 3/4 I can stop the fan with my hand... Although it locks in briefly when first started like it used to do..

I put my hand on the rad and it was hot but not burning hot. Where does the viscous fan get its reading from?

Only one electric fan out of the 2 works, Is this right?
If you can stop the viscous then it's fecked, if you look on the front of the viscous there is a coiled bi-metallic strip that uses the heat from the RAD to engage the fan. Both electric fans should operate at full speed on an overheat.
 

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