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Daz90

Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #1

Hi All,

Apologies for the possible schoolboy question, but apart from the chassis that I understand is the same as previous model defenders from corrosion resistance perspective, will the modern puma versions suffer from the same bodywork and bulkhead rust areas or is the puma bodywork some how different to avoid this happening?

kind Regards

Daz

 

swisstoe

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #2

They're all the same, you will still get electrolytic corrosion on the body...

 

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Daz90

Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #3

Thanks Swisstoe,

can the same be said for the door bottoms and the bulkhead? Behind the dash etc?

 

swisstoe

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #4

Your best bet is to keep everything greased and oiled from now on, can only slow the corrosion...

 

Marmaduke

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #5

Daz90 said:

Hi All,

Apologies for the possible schoolboy question, but apart from the chassis that I understand is the same as previous model defenders from corrosion resistance perspective, will the modern puma versions suffer from the same bodywork and bulkhead rust areas or is the puma bodywork some how different to avoid this happening?

kind Regards

Daz

Click to expand...

As already said, basically wherever steel and aluminium meet i.e. doorframes, rubber window seals which on the front window are held on with steel clips and anywhere that's bolted together like the seat box to the rear tub.

Should take a few years from new to start showing though

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #6

Doors are more modern one piece and are, I believe, much better.
Bulkhead has no vents which is one less place for water to get in so that should last longer?

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #7

Big job (cos I've done it) but if I had a newish tratter I would strip it and get the chassis/bulkhead galvanized.

 

swisstoe

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #8

New galvanised chassis and bulkhead on my rebuild, shouldn't need to touch them again...

 

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Daz90

Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #9

Thanks guys. Appreciate all that. I too thought the doors were supposed to be better. I suppose I’m trying to establish that assuming I can get hold of a say 2012 model with no rust currently, as long as keep treating the chassis, how long I can expect before I start having to worry about rusty bulkheads etc

 

swisstoe

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #10

Ten years possibly, but spray clear waxoil in every cavity...

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #11

A lot will depend on where it lives and where it's driven.
By the sea?
Or in Africa?
Driven on salty icey roads or through cow cr@p?
Only used on dry roads?
Maybe 30yrs for one of these scenarios, maybe 5yrs for the other.

 

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Daz90

Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #12

Makes sense.

Does the puma have enough bulkhead access points to get plenty of dinitrol in?

 

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Oct 29, 2019

• #13

As Flossie said, I think the newer doors are much better. I think they are zinc plated and last a lot longer.

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Oct 30, 2019

• #14

Daz90 said:

Makes sense.

Does the puma have enough bulkhead access points to get plenty of dinitrol in?

Click to expand...

Pillar door hinge holes are the only ones that spring to mind. Lots of bulkhead rot starts on the very top where the windscreen frame sits, pita to get at that. Footwells may, probably do, have a reinforced double layer, rot starts between those 2 layers too.

 

owas

Well-Known Member

• Oct 30, 2019

• #15

Vet I go to has one of the last 2015 defenders, her rear cross member looks terrible already, I'll have a look at the body properly next time im in but I wouldn't be very happy with that, paid 10k over list for it too

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Oct 30, 2019

• #16

Daz90 said:

Makes sense.

Does the puma have enough bulkhead access points to get plenty of dinitrol in?

Click to expand...

As well as Dinitrol, which is damn good stuff, have a nosy at the Bilt Hamber range - and also Corolan oil from rust buster - might be just what is needed to minimise electrolytic nastyness

 

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Oct 31, 2019

• #17

My mate has a 60 plate. All doors and bulkhead are still clean and blister free. Rear crossmember has been rusty from years and his seat box ends are rotting out.

 

lightning

Well-Known Member

• Oct 31, 2019

• #18

You need to treat the crossmember
A spray with any sort of wax based rust proofer or spray grease takes five minutes

But few bother.

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Oct 31, 2019

• #19

Regular treatment is the answer, every year power wash clean and spray preservative inside and out when dry, taking care to get in nooks and crannies.[ eg remove door hinge screws for access.] Extra flaps [ Gwyn Lewis do some now, I made my own. ] to cover footwells/ crossmembers .
My 1990 90 has only had a few small patch's Lives outside all year by the sea.
My favoured preservative is fresh engine oil and diesel. Just have to remember not to park on someone's posh drive for a couple of days.

 

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Oct 31, 2019

• #20

lightning said:

You need to treat the crossmember
A spray with any sort of wax based rust proofer or spray grease takes five minutes

But few bother.

Click to expand...

He has treated it and is getting in to maintaining it himself. His next priority is his brakes, but then he's going to look at the corrosion at the seat box and front of tub to chassis mounts.