monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Interesting.... Same as mine except a 4.6 rather than 4.0. I did find my first 100% imperial bolt today on the back of the O/S Head for the engine lift ring. It was a 1/2" head so would obviously fit nothing else.
Interesting.... Same as mine except a 4.6 rather than 4.0. I did find my first 100% imperial bolt today on the back of the O/S Head for the engine lift ring. It was a 1/2" head so would obviously fit nothing else.
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Success today!
Second head is off and first head is back from the engine shop. The head was refaced so is now nice and shiny, quick degrease before it goes back on tomorrow. The heads and rockershaft have been stripped and checked by the engine shop and it has come up looking really good. No scoring on the rocker shafts.
I am very pleased to say that there is no evidence of a slipped liner in any of the cylinders. All of the cylinders look clean with no scores or scratches. I can't find anything obvious to show that the coolant had been escaping into the cylinders but it had failed a sniff test so could well have been the other way around.
I finally got around to draining the oil today. It was very black but very runny. No sign of the oil itself being emulsified, I may boil a bit off tomorrow and see if it pops but I very much doubt it will.
I also tested the thermostat, it opened very slowly even with boiling hot water from the kettle going in to the wax capsule side. Just out of curiosity, is there any difference in opening temperatures for a white and black thermostat casing? I have anew one on order anyway.
I made a start on wrapping the first exhaust manifold, I bought some Kevlar tape online and managed to wrap the manifold without blocking off the bolt holes. Now my fingers itch like hell, forgot how bad that stuff is.
I have checked all the tappets, I'm on no way concerned about the cam shaft and tappets, looking at examples online, they have had a very easy life and should be fine for quite a while.
At this stage, it's just before a cold snap, I'm working in a garage that is made from corrugated steel and telegraph poles and is on it's last legs. I don't even have electricity to it so i'm working by torch light. I have got help today from a friend who is a trained mechanic with lots of experience and he agrees with all my findings.
Looking forward to getting this back together and back on the road.
Second head is off and first head is back from the engine shop. The head was refaced so is now nice and shiny, quick degrease before it goes back on tomorrow. The heads and rockershaft have been stripped and checked by the engine shop and it has come up looking really good. No scoring on the rocker shafts.
I am very pleased to say that there is no evidence of a slipped liner in any of the cylinders. All of the cylinders look clean with no scores or scratches. I can't find anything obvious to show that the coolant had been escaping into the cylinders but it had failed a sniff test so could well have been the other way around.
I finally got around to draining the oil today. It was very black but very runny. No sign of the oil itself being emulsified, I may boil a bit off tomorrow and see if it pops but I very much doubt it will.
I also tested the thermostat, it opened very slowly even with boiling hot water from the kettle going in to the wax capsule side. Just out of curiosity, is there any difference in opening temperatures for a white and black thermostat casing? I have anew one on order anyway.
I made a start on wrapping the first exhaust manifold, I bought some Kevlar tape online and managed to wrap the manifold without blocking off the bolt holes. Now my fingers itch like hell, forgot how bad that stuff is.
I have checked all the tappets, I'm on no way concerned about the cam shaft and tappets, looking at examples online, they have had a very easy life and should be fine for quite a while.
At this stage, it's just before a cold snap, I'm working in a garage that is made from corrugated steel and telegraph poles and is on it's last legs. I don't even have electricity to it so i'm working by torch light. I have got help today from a friend who is a trained mechanic with lots of experience and he agrees with all my findings.
Looking forward to getting this back together and back on the road
.
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monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Wrapped exhaust manifold.
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Yeah, It will have a few flushes for a good clean out, sump is coming off tomorrow for a good clean out and a quick check of the bottom end. Then as you say, a good quality engine oil of the 15w40 variety should be good.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The recommended oil is 5W40 for the diesel.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
she's a v8, Data
Datatek
Well-Known Member
According to RAVE 5W40 or 5W50 is recommended to API service level SG or SH orshe's a v8, Data
ACEA A2.96
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Thick so it dunt pish out
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
A little more progress today, only a small amount as it's about 4 degrees in my shed!
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Slowly but yeah, I am hoping to have it running next week. still waiting on a few parts to turn up. I plan on replacing the matrix o rings and blender motors before it goes back on the road as well.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Sounds like you have some fun ahead!
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Perhaps with a leaky sump, the mayo didn't come from inside but rather they've added whatever they had at hand topping it up over time with any old crap? Should be sorted now tho!
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Perhaps with a leaky sump, the mayo didn't come from inside but rather they've added whatever they had at hand topping it up over time with any old crap? Should be sorted now tho!
Yeah, I get the feeling that it's just done a lot of short journeys. There doesn't seem to be any major wear in the engine and the oil looked really good, I think it's just an accumulation over the years of condensation.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
The temperature it opens should be stamped in small print on the back end somewhere. My original BMW stat was 80•c but was stiff and jamming when taken out and tested. I replaced it with a cheap 79•c unit, it's made no practical difference other than the new one works. Mine is diesel but u get wot I mean- stat is a stat right?
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Bollocks!
I over tightened the bolts, I did a 360 rather than a 180. ARGGGGHHHHHHHHH........
Anyway, it's all looking better.
I over tightened the bolts, I did a 360 rather than a 180. ARGGGGHHHHHHHHH........
Anyway, it's all looking better.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
You did a 360 and didn't pull the threads out of the block!!
You'll need to pull the bolts out and get some new ones, have a look at the HG too..
The Stretch bolts will be fatigued to hell
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
You did a 360 and didn't pull the threads out of the block!!
You'll need to pull the bolts out and get some new ones, have a look at the HG too..
The Stretch bolts will be fatigued to hell
Well..... I did snap a bolt..... Number 2 position.... I'll have to try and extract it out and hopefully not have to pull the gasket off.
I have done an engine before where the head went back on the wrong way round! Undid it all and put it the right way round with the same gasket and bolts and all was ok. We'll see if I get lucky.....
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
I'll pray to the RR Gods for you!
Be careful it's possible/guaranteed considering the level of squish, that you've squished the HG far too much, rendering it useless.
