G

gavinbray

New Member
Ok so I have suspension problems.I bought a Range Rover from a chap who had replaced the air bags and pump but hadn't reset the eas ecu,as such I have no control over the suspension,I have been told it is in self check mode and needs resetting,I purchased a lead and software from ebay and plugged it in,it came up with some faults which I tried to clear several times,each time it came up with other faults which I could clear,the 1 constant was FL signal incorrect.I went back out afterwards to check if it was calibrated correctly but now the software will not syncronize with the car,I have tried the suggestions by RSW,changing comm,starting again,moving idle delay,I even unistalled the usb and installed it again,nothing seems to work,just won't syncronize,need help please.

I am now off for a fag and a strop:mad:
 
Sounds like a USB/comms problem, if you are running Vista or Win 7 driver problems are common. Otherwise corrosion on the OBD connector or getting out of sequence when stopping the software and turning the ignition on/off.
 
Hey Datatek,I don't THINK it is a problem with any connectors for the simple reason I used it several times. What I will say is the 1 thing that happened between it working and not working is the battery was disconnected(someone suggested disconnecting the battery for a while to reset the ecu) So before the battery was disconnected it was fine,after it won't connect after the battery was connected again(di i just say that twice?) anyhow do we have a way forward on this? As mentioned I have tried the stuff RWS have suggested,I would really like this up and running as I feel I will be needing it alot.
Cheers
Gavin
 
gavinbray said:
Hey Datatek,I don't THINK it is a problem with any connectors for the simple reason I used it several times. What I will say is the 1 thing that happened between it working and not working is the battery was disconnected(someone suggested disconnecting the battery for a while to reset the ecu) So before the battery was disconnected it was fine,after it won't connect after the battery was connected again(di i just say that twice?) anyhow do we have a way forward on this? As mentioned I have tried the stuff RWS have suggested,I would really like this up and running as I feel I will be needing it alot.
Cheers
Gavin
Click to expand...

The sequence I use is:- start software, get to opening screen, plug in to the OBD port and computer, turn the ignition to position 2 initialise the software, you should get a beep and the slow 35 mph message followed by the green "Good Idle". If you don't, either you have a comms problem, a connection problem or you have confused the ECU when you disconnected the battery. If the latter you could try disconnecting the battery again, diss the negative in a clean quick movement and re-connect they same way after 10 minutes. If it sparks when re-connecting it can cause ECU corruption.
 
Hello mate,have only just read this so will try tomorrow.I tried connecting the software again earlier and got nowhere,so drove over to an auto electrician mate to see if he could do anything. He has a very recent snap on computer,now I was under the impression that these don't work on the EAS system but thought I would see what he said.He connected it up and went through model etc and it DID connect to the EAS,so he listed the fault codes and there were 15!! So he cleared them,checked again and loads of faults again but about 20,tried again and 10 faults,tried again and no faults(yay) checked it and 10 faults(bugger) tried again and 20 faults!!! I think we see the pattern here!! I was getting the same sort of thing when I could get the software to connect ie a inconsistant readings from the ECU. He THINKS the ECU is knackered as he said the ECU is all over the place,and to be fair this would explain the erratic nature of the suspension,any thoughts on these findings? I have a friend with the same car which works fine and have asked for a bit of part subbing but he is worried we could end up screwing his up to,understandable really when you consider the problems chaps have with EAS.Any help would be great.
Cheers
Gavin
 
gavinbray said:
Hello mate,have only just read this so will try tomorrow.I tried connecting the software again earlier and got nowhere,so drove over to an auto electrician mate to see if he could do anything. He has a very recent snap on computer,now I was under the impression that these don't work on the EAS system but thought I would see what he said.He connected it up and went through model etc and it DID connect to the EAS,so he listed the fault codes and there were 15!! So he cleared them,checked again and loads of faults again but about 20,tried again and 10 faults,tried again and no faults(yay) checked it and 10 faults(bugger) tried again and 20 faults!!! I think we see the pattern here!! I was getting the same sort of thing when I could get the software to connect ie a inconsistant readings from the ECU. He THINKS the ECU is knackered as he said the ECU is all over the place,and to be fair this would explain the erratic nature of the suspension,any thoughts on these findings? I have a friend with the same car which works fine and have asked for a bit of part subbing but he is worried we could end up screwing his up to,understandable really when you consider the problems chaps have with EAS.Any help would be great.
Cheers
Gavin
Click to expand...

Could be the ECU but unusual if it is. A long list of faults is the usual symptom of comms failure. Might be worth checking out the timer relay under the passenger seat.
 
Ok may be getting somewhere,I followed what I think was Datatek's suggestion about the ECU may have had a hissy when I disconnected the battery and to try doing it again to sort it out,so this morning I took the battery off for a couple of hours,put it back on and my laptop now connects with the ECU no problems,meaning I could check the faults,as before the fault that comes up is FL sensor incorrect and if it ever stops raining I can investigate this,although to be honest I don't really know what I am looking for.Having the software connected also meant I could check some other things. Watching some of the instruction videos for the software I was very interested in the height calibration,the chaps on the video mentioned that the heights won't be exactly the same but should be pretty close,well my readings are nowhere near close,they are as follows......

FL FR RL RR

HIGH 125 148 129 129

STANDARD 114 123 109 237

LOW 104 107 97 99

ACCESS 75 80 75 75

Now that can't be right can it? Anyone got the figures so I can set them up?

Cheers
Gav
 
Sorry my little table didn't come out anything like I typed it when I posted it but I think you get the drift.
Cheers
Gav
 
i think there might be a how to on this ,or do a search on suspension heights as it was covered just the other week;)
 
Will do,just had another look at the RWS video and the chap does say if I get any massive readings like that 237 I have that it will be an incorrect reading and to get the figures again so I will do this later,but I still think this is all set up wrong and am hoping this is what is wrong with my suspension rather than expensive parts needed. I am not enjoying my car not working as it should but it has to be said,I am starting to enjoy this software,quite a tool.
Cheers
Gav
 
gavinbray said:
Ok may be getting somewhere,I followed what I think was Datatek's suggestion about the ECU may have had a hissy when I disconnected the battery and to try doing it again to sort it out,so this morning I took the battery off for a couple of hours,put it back on and my laptop now connects with the ECU no problems,meaning I could check the faults,as before the fault that comes up is FL sensor incorrect and if it ever stops raining I can investigate this,although to be honest I don't really know what I am looking for.Having the software connected also meant I could check some other things. Watching some of the instruction videos for the software I was very interested in the height calibration,the chaps on the video mentioned that the heights won't be exactly the same but should be pretty close,well my readings are nowhere near close,they are as follows......

FL FR RL RR

HIGH 125 148 129 129

STANDARD 114 123 109 237

LOW 104 107 97 99

ACCESS 75 80 75 75

Now that can't be right can it? Anyone got the figures so I can set them up?

Cheers
Gav
Click to expand...

Only one that looks remotely duff is the 237. That is not correct. If that corresponds to your front left sensor that is your problem, as i think has been said a few times.
 
My post has gone!!! Yeah that 237 was a wrong reading,it is 109(same as other side). Despite that there is still quite a difference beetween the FL and FR readings on Standard(left is 114,right is 123) and high(left is 125,right is 148) more than the 1 or 2 RWS suggested. I also looked at sensor heights,this was done when the car was on low setting,the rears were 98 and 97 which ties in with the figures I got earlier,the FR is 107 which again ties in,the FL is 4,which doesn't tie in with anything. Now I went outside to have a look at this FL sensor,I had to take the 2 bolts off as it has a cover over it,but I could get to the harness connection but couldn't get it to unplug,to be fair I was by the side of the road as I have a project on my drive.So thought I would come back to that,however when I started the engine,no fault!!! then after 15 seconds it came back,logic says the connecter needs cleaning on that sensor as disturbing it made the fault go away even if it was for just 15 seconds. I will hopefully get the chance to that sensor properly tomorrow or Thursday,for now i'm going to have a search for those suspension height figures.
Cheers
Gav
 
Hmmmm maybe a can of worms.I went out to calibrate the suspension heights,started in high,measured from centre of the wheels to the arches and compared to the figures I got from the forum.Now this is simple enough,if a wheel is too high or too low I adjust it on the laptop and action it but the figures just are not matching up. The height figures on the laptop are higher for the righthand side of the car,yet in reality the left side of the car is higher,so I just lower the figures on the left side,but RWS say there shouldn't be too much difference with the figures,1 or 2 they say,and I believe them. So why is there such a massive difference with mine,is this just down to the suspect FL sensor? crazy stuff.
Cheers
Gav
 
gavinbray said:
Hmmmm maybe a can of worms.I went out to calibrate the suspension heights,started in high,measured from centre of the wheels to the arches and compared to the figures I got from the forum.Now this is simple enough,if a wheel is too high or too low I adjust it on the laptop and action it but the figures just are not matching up. The height figures on the laptop are higher for the righthand side of the car,yet in reality the left side of the car is higher,so I just lower the figures on the left side,but RWS say there shouldn't be too much difference with the figures,1 or 2 they say,and I believe them. So why is there such a massive difference with mine,is this just down to the suspect FL sensor? crazy stuff.
Cheers
Gav
Click to expand...

Getting the sensor readings within 1 or 2 side to side will not happen a lot practically. I would forget about that. On a vehicle that has worn sensors and links the only way you will do that in many cases is to move the sensors on their mountings or tweak the arms. If you can get the heights correct +- 7mm and within a few beats that is as good as it gets mostly.
 
gavinbray said:
Hmmmm maybe a can of worms.I went out to calibrate the suspension heights,started in high,measured from centre of the wheels to the arches and compared to the figures I got from the forum.Now this is simple enough,if a wheel is too high or too low I adjust it on the laptop and action it but the figures just are not matching up. The height figures on the laptop are higher for the righthand side of the car,yet in reality the left side of the car is higher,so I just lower the figures on the left side,but RWS say there shouldn't be too much difference with the figures,1 or 2 they say,and I believe them. So why is there such a massive difference with mine,is this just down to the suspect FL sensor? crazy stuff.
Cheers
Gav
Click to expand...

Unless the ground is absolutely flat and the tyre pressures are correct, it's quite easy to get a 10 or 15 point difference side to side when the car appears to be level. Worn sensors will also give variable readings as Wammers said.
 
Ok chaps,I guess I just put too much importance on what they said on the videos. Ok so I had a day with my wife today but tomorrow(maybe later on) I intend on taking the FL sensor off and testing it on a ohm meter,What figures am I looking for,also do I have the type of sensors I can just swap from side to side,just to see if that moves the fault to make sure it is that part causing it before buying parts.
Cheers
Gav
 
gavinbray said:
Ok chaps,I guess I just put too much importance on what they said on the videos. Ok so I had a day with my wife today but tomorrow(maybe later on) I intend on taking the FL sensor off and testing it on a ohm meter,What figures am I looking for,also do I have the type of sensors I can just swap from side to side,just to see if that moves the fault to make sure it is that part causing it before buying parts.
Cheers
Gav
Click to expand...


If it's 97 on, you can swop them over, if it's before that, you can't.
 
i know on the rrc you can swap l to r..this removes the fault altogether if worn sensor as it uses the unused part of the track...(uses a 360 degree track, each side just uses 180,..so swapping over l-r or vise versa uses the unused 180 part of track..)

not owned a nasty p38, but if its mechanicaly possible to swap then its a good move..

as stated take no notice of if heights are 10 + out from side to side..as long as its level thats all that matters..
 
zen said:
i know on the rrc you can swap l to r..this removes the fault altogether if worn sensor as it uses the unused part of the track...(uses a 360 degree track, each side just uses 180,..so swapping over l-r or vise versa uses the unused 180 part of track..)

not owned a nasty p38, but if its mechanicaly possible to swap then its a good move..

as stated take no notice of if heights are 10 + out from side to side..as long as its level thats all that matters..
Click to expand...

The track is not 360 degrees, more like 260. The worn part is near the 120/130 degree mark so swapping side to side is likely to be a short term fix. I posted photo's of the track some time back.
 
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