I

i hate my P38

Member
Hi,
I'm a Novice green laner running a 110 csw
I was given a set of 4' britpart springs and pro comp shocks for free from my friend who owns a garage, they were bought for another customer who didnt like the height so had them remove.
Since fitting them to my landy i have noticed that the anti roll bar is twisted. the left side sits in the up position, almost touchng the spring, whilst the right hand side is at 90 deg to the axle, there does not appear to be any handling problems, but she sits slightly higher on the passenger side.
so.....what i would like to know is wether the increase spring/shock size has caused this, if so what can i do to rectify this problem.
Also do i need to fit dislocation cones or anything else to the steering/suspension to allow for the increased height.
I have no other modifications on the landy apart from the above mentioned!

I recently went on the wayfarer with friends, could i have damaged the roll bar by catching it on rocks?
:confused:
I can put up a few pics if you guys would like to see what i have described.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
 
You may have bent something whilst green-laning, but I doubt it.

As for the difference in ride hieght on each side, you have probably put the springs on the wrong side.

The driver's side springs should be a couple of mm taller than the passenger side,
 
We're the springs from a 110 or something else, not all springs are side specific , and all most certainly not if britpart.
 
I springs were fitted to a 90.
i didnt realise that the springs were different heights! but would a few millimetres really make a difference to how the landy sits?
 
i hate my P38 said:
I springs were fitted to a 90.
i didnt realise that the springs were different heights! but would a few millimetres really make a difference to how the landy sits?
Click to expand...

Front and rear are different thickness wire and different height I believe. I had a set of Brit part and they sagged after a short time so replaced with bearmach ones , the thicker wire is on the rear.
 
post the pictures for a clearer picture of the prob, anti roll bars should sit equal both sides, it takes a bloody big hit to bend them .as mentioned cheek the springs and shocks are fitted in the right places.
I've not heard of different size springs across an axle but front to back maters, front being heaver
 
all thats happened is the link that attaches roll bar to axle has flipped over when the axle has articulated..

jack up the chassis, leaving the wheels on the gound, and the links will both set themselves in the correct position. or stick a big bar in there and force the link back down to the lower position..

the lift means that when the axle drops the links are extended straight and its a 50/50 chance whether they flip up or down.

you have to lower the mounts on the anti roll bar to stop this(but it dont work)..

take the arb off and bin it... it wioll get ripped off at some point anyway..
 
with a 4" lift and also if yr using for green laning..

1 dislocation cones.
2 castor corrected radius arms
3 castor corrected trailing arms
4 wide angle propshafts...
5 diff guards
6 steering guard

and be prepared to replace everything that breaks... lol....
 
nick2303 said:
with a 4" lift and also if yr using for green laning..

1 dislocation cones.
2 castor corrected radius arms
3 castor corrected trailing arms
4 wide angle propshafts...
5 diff guards
6 steering guard

and be prepared to replace everything that breaks... lol....
Click to expand...

You forgot extended bump stops & extended brake lines from that little list... and yeah be prepared to break stuff!!

You dont really 'need' a lift but they do look cool, I think its accepted that a 2" lift is the ideal for looks/practicality/performance
 
Jongould said:
You forgot extended bump stops & extended brake lines from that little list... and yeah be prepared to break stuff!!

You dont really 'need' a lift but they do look cool, I think its accepted that a 2" lift is the ideal for looks/practicality/performance
Click to expand...


oh yeah... done em on mine but ya try to forget how much money ya spending... lol:p

what bout snorkel?:confused:

extended breathers, wading plugs, and ya cant forget bigger more agresssive tyres.. light bar, winch bumpers front and rear... :D

not surprised r lass calls it the money pit! :eek:
 
thanks guys for your advice..its been a while since I posted on this thread!
I have downsized to 2" of lift, got my dislocation cones, diff and steering guards, just waiting for some spare money for the radius and trailing arms. It would seem the break cables were already changed before I got the landy!
I am just unsure about removing the ARB....won't this cause handling problems?
I intend to tow a caravan when I go away for weekends.
 
If you are towing a caravan you need to keep the ARB's on, will be out right dangerous towing a caravan with no ARB's. You could devise a quick release fitting if you wanted maximum off road ability, I believe X-Eng or someone similar do a remote release one...
 
Jongould said:
If you are towing a caravan you need to keep the ARB's on, will be out right dangerous towing a caravan with no ARB's. You could devise a quick release fitting if you wanted maximum off road ability, I believe X-Eng or someone similar do a remote release one...
Click to expand...

Not necciarily true, the 2 defenders at my work have towed 3.5 tonnes for the last 120k without ARB's fitted
 
TD5power said:
No, my fault I thought you meant for towing in general with or without a lift
Click to expand...


To be fair there is no technical issue with towing, like you say a lot of defenders don't have arb's anyway, once lifted though they get a bit boaty, add to that a big slab sided caravan and I think I would be a little concerned, it may be OK and if you are experienced it should be fine but I still don't think I would want to tow a caravan (light and slab sided) with a 110 that's lifted and without its roll bars...
 
Jongould said:
To be fair there is no technical issue with towing, like you say a lot of defenders don't have arb's anyway, once lifted though they get a bit boaty, add to that a big slab sided caravan and I think I would be a little concerned, it may be OK and if you are experienced it should be fine but I still don't think I would want to tow a caravan (light and slab sided) with a 110 that's lifted and without its roll bars...
Click to expand...

Yeah I know what you mean, only issue we found with ARB's is when offroading we bent ours
 
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