Mark Piercy said:
Does it require any soldering, I am completely sh... Inadequate at soldering.... :eek:
Click to expand...
No soldering, if and when you visit, I can swap it for you if you pull the alternator off. I have one on the bench to do at the moment.
It's worth doing as at the mileage our cars are on the brushes will be worn and due to fail.
 
Datatek said:
No soldering, if and when you visit, I can swap it for you if you pull the alternator off. I have one on the bench to do at the moment.
It's worth doing as at the mileage our cars are on the brushes will be worn and due to fail.
Click to expand...
I had to replace the alternator recently as the original went on the blink.
 
Datatek said:
I'

I'd bet your alternator set point is 13.8 volts.
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If that is what they come with out of the packet, I'd have to say yes.
I think that is what you suggested after the second one popped, but I am not a proactive man. It was added to my list of "jobs to do maybe one day". Like cleanly installing the charge controller or wiring in a boot release button to the dash because I thought it was a good idea.
 
Bix said:
If that is what they come with out of the packet, I'd have to say yes.
I think that is what you suggested after the second one popped, but I am not a proactive man. It was added to my list of "jobs to do maybe one day". Like cleanly installing the charge controller or wiring in a boot release button to the dash because I thought it was a good idea.
Click to expand...
Bit unfair to blame the batteries then, I currently have 6 batteries from them in use, 4 between 1 and 3 years old one 1 month old and one 5 years old. My original from them died at about 9 years when the alternator took it out.
 
Datatek said:
Bit unfair to blame the batteries then, I currently have 6 batteries from them in use, 4 between 1 and 3 years old one 1 month old and one 5 years old. My original from them died at about 9 years when the alternator took it out.
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Not really, if I am using a P38 as it left the shop, it isn't fit for purpose to recommend a battery that will fail without modifying the alternator. Yes they may be much better once you change the output of the alternator, but the bulk of users of P38s haven't done this, so they shouldn't expect the same results as the battery is no good for the application.
 
Bix said:
Not really, if I am using a P38 as it left the shop, it isn't fit for purpose to recommend a battery that will fail without modifying the alternator. Yes they may be much better once you change the output of the alternator, but the bulk of users of P38s haven't done this, so they shouldn't expect the same results as the battery is no good for the application.
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It's the P38 that's not fit for purpose, Lead Calcium batteries have been standard fitment for at least 20 years, the fact that land Rover couldn't be bothered to update the alternator tells it's own story. It's quite hard to find an old style lead acid battery but there are still some batteries that are OK on 13.8 volts
 
Datatek said:
It's the P38 that's not fit for purpose, Lead Calcium batteries have been standard fitment for at least 20 years, the fact that land Rover couldn't be bothered to update the alternator tells it's own story. It's quite hard to find an old style lead acid battery but there are still some batteries that are OK on 13.8 volts
Click to expand...
I get you have a passionate loathing of P38s, but the vehicle was designed before calcium batteries were common place. And given it is a BMW lump, you probably want to blame them, if anyone, since the BMWs from the same period also have the lower set point.

But as a stock vehicle, the battery you recommend is not fit for purpose, you know it, I know it, the world knows it. If you then say to a prospective buyer "if you change the set point on your alternator, here is a link to the part and a quick guide, this battery would he perfect for the P38."

But you don't. So unless they'll have to mod the alternator or hook their P38 up to a charger at least once a week, they'll end up with a dead battery in no time. I don't really understand why you always insist on trying to be right. In this scenario you aren't, and you know it.
 
Bix said:
I get you have a passionate loathing of P38s, but the vehicle was designed before calcium batteries were common place. And given it is a BMW lump, you probably want to blame them, if anyone, since the BMWs from the same period also have the lower set point.

But as a stock vehicle, the battery you recommend is not fit for purpose, you know it, I know it, the world knows it. If you then say to a prospective buyer "if you change the set point on your alternator, here is a link to the part and a quick guide, this battery would he perfect for the P38."

But you don't. So unless they'll have to mod the alternator or hook their P38 up to a charger at least once a week, they'll end up with a dead battery in no time. I don't really understand why you always insist on trying to be right. In this scenario you aren't, and you know it.
Click to expand...
My wife's 1984 R11, my 1986 MR2, my 1990 Pajero and a number of other cars that have passed through my hands all have had 14.7 volt set point alternators, this was just typical Land Rover using old stock up, the P38 was designed when LC batteries were in fact common place.
I Have in the past posted a link to a 14.7 volt regulator for the diesel as have others.
I accept that I should add a warning when recommending the MF31-1000, but anyone going to Halfords, Kwik fit or any other battery supplier will come away with a Lead Calcium battery or an even more unsuitable AGM battery.
 
It is hard to get a battery these days that doesn't have at least some calcium in. I had an MF31 but I think the Platinum 642x is better, albeit a tad more expensive.
 
Grrrrrr said:
It is hard to get a battery these days that doesn't have at least some calcium in. I had an MF31 but I think the Platinum 642x is better, albeit a tad more expensive.
Click to expand...
I have 2 Varta edit, Bleu Dynamic one came new with the project P38, the other I bought for my tractor because it was on promo, neither work well in the cold, they drop quite quickly to 12.5 volts. They do the job, but struggle at minus 10C.
 
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on the subject of alternators, is easy enough to get to the bearings? mine is noisy but theres no play at the pulley, hoping to get some fresh grease in the bearings
 
kermit_rr said:
on the subject of alternators, is easy enough to get to the bearings? mine is noisy but theres no play at the pulley, hoping to get some fresh grease in the bearings
Click to expand...
Bearings are easy to get, not expensive and fairly easy to replace. If the bearing is noisy, grease will not help a lot, may quieten it for a while.
Beware the cheepo Chinese ones on Ebay, use a genuine bearing supplier
 
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