gulfbluersr
New Member
Hopefuly you can see from the pics where the gasket has given up and the burn is showing on the block and the gasket above the second cylinder, also you may be able to make out where the end cylinder has gone across the gasket to the water way, when a liner slips or leaks does it show as a burn across the gasket/block? or is this just a simple gasket failier? none of the pistons are steam cleaned.
I failed to get the other head of earlier, I was struggling to get the rear lower exhaust manifold bolt out and gave up.... snow was blowing in under the door and I had enough!!
Steve
I failed to get the other head of earlier, I was struggling to get the rear lower exhaust manifold bolt out and gave up.... snow was blowing in under the door and I had enough!!
Steve
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gulfbluersr
New Member
Yeah I know sorry about the pics, bit dark in my workshop and only had the phone to take them with.
I ran my nail across the tops of all the liners could not feel them, so I'm tending to think clean it all up, check the heads for flat skim if required, new gaskets etc and slap it back together just to see what happens, its a gamble that it may be the block but otherwise I could end up scrapping a perfectly servicable block, I would rather spend time doing this so at least when I have swapped over to my other freshly built engine I can sell this one as a honest water tight block, would not want to con anyone saying it was good if not, there's too many T**ts around that do that already!!
Steve
I ran my nail across the tops of all the liners could not feel them, so I'm tending to think clean it all up, check the heads for flat skim if required, new gaskets etc and slap it back together just to see what happens, its a gamble that it may be the block but otherwise I could end up scrapping a perfectly servicable block, I would rather spend time doing this so at least when I have swapped over to my other freshly built engine I can sell this one as a honest water tight block, would not want to con anyone saying it was good if not, there's too many T**ts around that do that already!!
Steve
gulfbluersr
New Member
Yes when the engine is back together I have a mate down the road who does mot's, would this give a more definate answer than the sniff test through the header tank? I have a sniff tester and it never made the water change colour but was pressurizing still, not sure if you have read all the thread but I have changed, checked a fair bit before getting to this stage.
Your help is appretiated
Steve
Your help is appretiated
Steve
gulfbluersr
New Member
Thanks for that! Thats it then in the morning, off with the other head, clean it up pop over to my mate with the machine shop for a quick flatness test and skim if required and back together it goes!!
Just gotta hope not too much snow so my mate can get to his shop in the morn!!
Cheers will let you know how it all goes........
Steve
Just gotta hope not too much snow so my mate can get to his shop in the morn!!
Cheers will let you know how it all goes........
Steve
I get skim,crack test and vac test valves.
If you can't see any movement (hairline/finger nail amounts) should be good to go
How about trying to measure the pressure in the top up reservoir? If it's a simple hose/pump/rad leak it'll loose water but not overpressure. If it's a crack/slipped liner then it'll overpressure. Anyone tried this?? What pressure should it be?
I've done 240 miles so far on 7 cylinders and it runs fine (for seven cylinders and no bank letters and country roads 3" deep in solid ice).
I've done 240 miles so far on 7 cylinders and it runs fine (for seven cylinders and no bank letters and country roads 3" deep in solid ice).
