Have you already got the paint? If not the you may find cellulose paint less lethal. I got some from paints4trade and it seems to have gone on quite well both with roller (on rad panel) and with spray (on wheels) - my first attempt spraying.

D
 
dominicbeesley said:
Have you already got the paint? If not the you may find cellulose paint less lethal. I got some from paints4trade and it seems to have gone on quite well both with roller (on rad panel) and with spray (on wheels) - my first attempt spraying.

D
Click to expand...

Thanks, don't have paint yet, but question is do I have the b**la to spray. How tricky is it??
 
So did a bit with orbital this evening only using 120 grit (chicken!) and seems to be shifting quite well, going at it full on tomorrow got some more heavier grit. Hopefully will post some pics tomo, thanks for all the help keep it coming! ;))
 
I had my first go on my own spraying a few weeks back - it was only some wheels so they were fairly easy in that I could get a nice angle. It went on easier than I thought it would and hasn't all fallen off when I pressure washed them. I may have just got lucky though as I wasn't very scientific with the ratio of paint to thinners.

The most difficult part was prepping and not getting everything covered in fluff and dust.

The advantage of cellulose paint is that it doesn't require a full breathing apparatus though you do need to take care with the fumes.

I'm sure when I get to doing a full respray that I'll make a good number of mistakes but the other advantage of cellulose is that it should be fairly easy to fix if you do balls it up.

Good luck and keep us up to date with pictures!

D
 
When I had mine re sprayed in 2k, the bodyshop was more concerned about the silicone I'd foolishly used to put in the new window extrusions. Some areas were taken back to metal but most not quite. A water based primer was used as this is apparently more tolerant to any potential silicone contamination / fish eye issues and then a nice DuPont 2k top coat. Turned out very nice. Perhaps there is some kind of water based undercoat you could use first if you're concerned about any remaining paint.
 
Land Raver said:
When I had mine re sprayed in 2k, the bodyshop was more concerned about the silicone I'd foolishly used to put in the new window extrusions. Some areas were taken back to metal but most not quite. A water based primer was used as this is apparently more tolerant to any potential silicone contamination / fish eye issues and then a nice DuPont 2k top coat. Turned out very nice. Perhaps there is some kind of water based undercoat you could use first if you're concerned about any remaining paint.
Click to expand...

you'd think a decent shop would know what to use :D
 
Update! Started rear panel using 80 grit paper on orbital sander, getting right back to original paint now...... Albeit slowly looking at pic do you think I'm far enough back with stripping?
 

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Ha ha yeah it's looking fairly mean now alright! Would save a fortune too lol! Have door done now, and have just found fillers in bulk head feeling pretty sick about that!
 
Have to pack in for today but good start, looks like she's had a few new panels over the years nice bit of NATO paint under there!
 

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Making slow progress! Tried good old nitromors this evening it definitely shifted old paint quicker than sander just on its own, now to tackle bonnet and tip if wings, rear doors, roof, door tops........the list goes on!!!! :)
 

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Cheers peejaysea, labour of love! Lot more to do on her but only getting to it now and then, hopefully will have prep finished by end of June and then into the body shop! ;)
 
Looking good to me. I'm struggling to strip back an old 1930's petrol can I'm refurbishing at the moment. Certainly don't envy you with all that!
 
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