TD4_4x4
Active Member
Hi matt1295.
I have my door cards off at the moment, and the plastic lining is cut away to get at the inside, so can take photos if required?
Also the door sill trims are off where the driver/passenger foot-well is so lots of wires are visible as i'm trying to do something else, which when I get working I'll share with you all.
I've now retrofitted power-fold mirrors (thanks to people's kind help on this forum) on the Mk1 facelift and would like to also see if having a Freelander 'close on lock' feature is possible by a bit of crafty re-wiring.
Please let me know if you want any pictures or have some ideas as I know an auto-electrician who, for a price, will help to attempt this job as I've already asked them but they wanted more information!
As 8754wx mentioned it is possible, and the auto-electrician said they want to know the following.
Q) Are the motors in the mirrors momentarily getting sent power? (pulsed) or are they 'on' until the mirror finishes its movement from open to close/close to open.
The issue seems to be if any ECU's are involved we won't be able to do it. It looks as if the Freelander is 'old', it's possible to make this work as long as the wire is connected from the door latch feed (as 8756wx said) to the correct electrical contact on the mirror unit.
This is important when deciding where to wire the feed from as otherwise your mirror motor would be on permanently and thus break the mirror gearing and give you a flat battery as they'd never turn off once activated via the door unlocking/locking.
Q) If the motors do support momentary 'on' (and thus effectively complete a cycle on their own), then pray tell, how do we work this out? With a multi meter touching a wire inside the mirror housing as the key fob button is pressed (would require mirror removal), or perhaps touching the probe of a mutli meter inside the plastic plug (male) that plugs into the mirror unit (female) from the loom of the car via the door?
If people can come up with some ideas, I'll volunteer to use my car as a test vehicle, as like I said, it's in bits and all the wires can be got at easily at the moment.
Then if this works, I could write up a DIY guide with some photos.
Perhaps the first step is finding a wiring diagram that is relevant to door latch actuators, mirrors?
I have my door cards off at the moment, and the plastic lining is cut away to get at the inside, so can take photos if required?
Also the door sill trims are off where the driver/passenger foot-well is so lots of wires are visible as i'm trying to do something else, which when I get working I'll share with you all.
I've now retrofitted power-fold mirrors (thanks to people's kind help on this forum) on the Mk1 facelift and would like to also see if having a Freelander 'close on lock' feature is possible by a bit of crafty re-wiring.
Please let me know if you want any pictures or have some ideas as I know an auto-electrician who, for a price, will help to attempt this job as I've already asked them but they wanted more information!
As 8754wx mentioned it is possible, and the auto-electrician said they want to know the following.
Q) Are the motors in the mirrors momentarily getting sent power? (pulsed) or are they 'on' until the mirror finishes its movement from open to close/close to open.
The issue seems to be if any ECU's are involved we won't be able to do it. It looks as if the Freelander is 'old', it's possible to make this work as long as the wire is connected from the door latch feed (as 8756wx said) to the correct electrical contact on the mirror unit.
This is important when deciding where to wire the feed from as otherwise your mirror motor would be on permanently and thus break the mirror gearing and give you a flat battery as they'd never turn off once activated via the door unlocking/locking.
Q) If the motors do support momentary 'on' (and thus effectively complete a cycle on their own), then pray tell, how do we work this out? With a multi meter touching a wire inside the mirror housing as the key fob button is pressed (would require mirror removal), or perhaps touching the probe of a mutli meter inside the plastic plug (male) that plugs into the mirror unit (female) from the loom of the car via the door?
If people can come up with some ideas, I'll volunteer to use my car as a test vehicle, as like I said, it's in bits and all the wires can be got at easily at the moment.
Then if this works, I could write up a DIY guide with some photos.
Perhaps the first step is finding a wiring diagram that is relevant to door latch actuators, mirrors?
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If you leave the dash switch connected, if it's out of sync, you only need push the button. Or press the remote again. It pulses the locks even if they are unlocked.
If you leave the dash switch connected, if it's out of sync, you only need push the button. Or press the remote again. It pulses the locks even if they are unlocked.
does that mean it will be as simple as bridging 4 wires ( 2 each) from lock to mirror harness and job done
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The mirror fold switch simply joins 2 wires together for both fold and unfold. A relay can do that for you. The mirror ECU receives the pulse and drives the mirror fold motor in the opposite direction of the previous pulse. Pulse in, pulse out, pulse in, pulse out, and so on.
I've got remote fold on my to do list.
think you should make a Homemade diagram thats matt prove lol
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's on my to do list. The fold switch is a simple 2 contact switch. There are 2 wires that are joined when it's pressed down. There is a black which goes to ground or negative. The other wire is blue/black. The fold ECU monitors the blue/black. When the switch is pressed the blue/black is connected to the black and so to ground. Once the fold ECU detects the ground it powers the mirror fold motors in the opposite direction as the last time the motors were driven.
To to fold/ unfold the mirrors 2 relays could be used. Both relays need to be energised by the door locking motor feed. 1 relay coil joins to ground and a door motor wire. The other relay coil is joined to the other door motor wire and ground. The 2 relays allow for the forward/reversed feed to the lock motor. The idea being that when the doors are locked 1 relay is energised, this pluses the blue/black to ground and the mirrors fold. When the door is unlocked the lock motor is driven the other direction. This would energise the other relay, this then grounds the blue/black again so the mirrors unfold. Then It sounds complex but it's reasonably easy to do.
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i see what you mean the only wire from the swtich is blue with black trace
this means it folds and unfolds
so 2 4 pin relays
1 pin battery live
1 pin earth
1 pin lock feed
1 to blue/black wire
2nd relay
1 pin live
1 pin earth
1 pin unlock feed
1 to blue/black wire
think i have this correct
this means it folds and unfolds
so 2 4 pin relays
1 pin battery live
1 pin earth
1 pin lock feed
1 to blue/black wire
2nd relay
1 pin live
1 pin earth
1 pin unlock feed
1 to blue/black wire
think i have this correct
Attachments
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Not quite correct.
This is how I'd do it.
1st relay
Relay pin 85 door lock live
Relay pin 86 earth
Relay pin 30 earth
Relay pin 87 to blue/black wire
2nd relay
Relay pin 85 door unlock live
Relay pin 86 earth
Relay pin 30 earth
Relay pin 87 to blue/black wire
Hope this helps?
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baptista
Active Member
hum, ok! so it is kind of like a "parallel circuit switch" not a "bypass switch"
wouldn't it be easier to have the them fold/unfold by the "alarm ECU" lock/unlock signal? if I make myself understand?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Changedcan u change yours to these pin numbers so i could prob understand a little easier
relay 4 pin
85
86
87
30
these are the relays i already have
