Hi Bernie
I had a very similar fault years ago on another make of vehicle, after a lot of checking and digging about in the electric system it turned out to be no more than dirty connections on the electric fuel pump.
My symptons had been the engine cutting out, especially when exiting roundabouts. or acting as if the ignition switch had been switched off and back on straight away.
Alan
SpudH
Well-Known Member
Does the injector light come on when it stalls?
A lot of DSE's do this when you lift completely off the throttle ( like cresting a hill or when you cancel the cruise control)
There's a glitch in the ECU programme that actually cuts off the fuel on the over run. Mine did it all the time until I replaced the crank sensor and no.4 sensor. I think the real culprit is the crank sensor though as the ECU goes to this to get the revs when it doesn't like the reading from needle lift sensor (no.4). As the fuel is cut off on the over run I don't think the needle lift will return an appropriate rev but the ECU will go to the crank for info. If the crank sensor is faulty it'll then stall.
Thats my understanding of the situation. BTW I ended up replacing the no.4 too as I stupidly got the sensor lead caught under the manifold and cut the effing lead so I can't confirm if the crank sensor on its own would have solved it.
Also 2 years later mine is starting to do it again so I might be able to confirm in a few weeks if I get round to doing the sensor! I've found a simple solution is to make sure I have the throttle pressed before I cancel cruise control with my left foot.
A lot of DSE's do this when you lift completely off the throttle ( like cresting a hill or when you cancel the cruise control)
There's a glitch in the ECU programme that actually cuts off the fuel on the over run. Mine did it all the time until I replaced the crank sensor and no.4 sensor. I think the real culprit is the crank sensor though as the ECU goes to this to get the revs when it doesn't like the reading from needle lift sensor (no.4). As the fuel is cut off on the over run I don't think the needle lift will return an appropriate rev but the ECU will go to the crank for info. If the crank sensor is faulty it'll then stall.
Thats my understanding of the situation. BTW I ended up replacing the no.4 too as I stupidly got the sensor lead caught under the manifold and cut the effing lead so I can't confirm if the crank sensor on its own would have solved it.
Also 2 years later mine is starting to do it again so I might be able to confirm in a few weeks if I get round to doing the sensor! I've found a simple solution is to make sure I have the throttle pressed before I cancel cruise control with my left foot.
SpudH
Well-Known Member
Yeah, thats exactly what mine used to do/does again. Yeah the needle lift sensor is the no. 4 injector.
But like I said I wouldn't change that first. The crank sensor is much cheaper and I believe that this is the biggest contributor to the problem. It might not be the only one, there's the no.4 injector and wear in the pump might also be a factor but I'd change the crank sensor first.
Right now I'm broke so I'm treating the symptom instead of the cure by left foot braking
well its happened twice to me now and because you loose control of your steering i should imagine if you were doin any decent speed a change of underpants would be needed.both times downhill,is there any way of checking these 2 sensors?both sensors(no4 and crank sensor)are related to startup so could be whats causing my bad starting.
SpudH
Well-Known Member
You have to hook it up to faultmate to read the faults and to check what revs each sensor is outputting but thats not guaranteed to find it as these things often go intermittently.
I swear the crank sensor is only around £30, will eventually go anyway so is money well spent. You can fit your self handy enough, it is a bit fiddly mind.
I swear the crank sensor is only around £30, will eventually go anyway so is money well spent. You can fit your self handy enough, it is a bit fiddly mind.
