Been looking, obviously at the bearings there seem to be various options that are slightly oversized/ undersized. Does anyone know the specific starting journal or original dimensions or where to find them? I dont know if the crank shaft has had work on it previously as this isn't the original engine it started life with??
Thanks for the pics, and yep have got that one although I think it's about 18 months old? I would guess this should be fine although given what's happened still tempted to swap it out???
 
Been looking, obviously at the bearings there seem to be various options that are slightly oversized/ undersized. Does anyone know the specific starting journal or original dimensions or where to find them? I dont know if the crank shaft has had work on it previously as this isn't the original engine it started life with??
Thanks for the pics, and yep have got that one although I think it's about 18 months old? I would guess this should be fine although given what's happened still tempted to swap it out???

here's a better pic of the oil pump covers and write up

http://media.disco3.co.uk/gallery/a..._New_Beefed_Up_Front_Cam_Belt_Tensioner~0.pdf

aplogises i haven't got the expertise ref the bearings etc @lynall is considerably more experienced

wonder if turner is any good ???
 
Always good to hear of the next potential job, and how to make it easier when it happens!! Have been looking at island 4x4 prices look good so far???? sorry Lynall but what is the difference between the two? They all seem to look the same? Forgive the ignorance as I said this is my first ever so still learning what the "thingy" is called let alone the difference on modified parts :)
Thanks again guys


The problem with the old style oil pump is come cambelt change time people invariably give the tensioner bolt an extra grunt for luck and this is what caused the weak casing to start to fail, chucking the belt off and wrecking the engine.
Bottom right of the pump should be a cast in date code, my 06 car had a 2012 oil pump, already done when I bought it, well chuffed I was.

By the time you have finished you will know considerably more about the D3 than the rest of us put together, very few people have rebuilt a D3 engine.

Just about everything for my D3 comes from island4x4, good prices.

Use quality oil filter and fuel filters, cheap fuel filters have reputedly caused fuel pressure problems/breakdowns, Im not entirely convinced but why risk it?
Look on bottom of oil filter and see the nipple? line this up with the hole in the filter housing and push it down THEN fit the oil filter cap, wrongly fitted?twisted oil filters have also caused engines to blow up.
Oil meant to be A5 spec, quite a few incl me use C3 which is basically A5 but okay for use with cats and as wifes car take the C3 means I only need one type of oil.

Ps Bonatti grey the best colour, still looks good when dirty!
 
Been looking, obviously at the bearings there seem to be various options that are slightly oversized/ undersized. Does anyone know the specific starting journal or original dimensions or where to find them? I dont know if the crank shaft has had work on it previously as this isn't the original engine it started life with??
Thanks for the pics, and yep have got that one although I think it's about 18 months old? I would guess this should be fine although given what's happened still tempted to swap it out???


Doubt the engine will have been apart beforehand, Like I said in my other post very little info on d3 engines and torque figures etc.
Its only the last 18 mths or so that crankshafts and bearings became available, before that there was nothing, no new rebuild parts available to anyone!
The bearing shells were 700 quid a set when they first came out, not sure what they are now.

Main reason no one will have done them is pure and simple labour costs, just about all the companies that advertise for engine swaps use 2nd hand lumps.
3.0 lump also fits so long as its dressed up with all the 2.7 accessories.
 
@lynall , thks and that's a great tip about the oil filter , makes perfect sense now , so if it's not in correctly as u put the casing back on it will twist the paper filter , good to learn something new :D

see what u mean regarding these engines, many recons around the 5k range , dont know what it costs if rebuilt urself

are all the blocks the same between the jags and citroens plse, with just there ancillaries different

going to do the ATF myself , can't justify the £400 to do a flush ,what oil do u use please, does it have to be the zf oil

thks again for allowing me to ramble on as always
 
Great, feeling a bit luckier now knowing engine parts only just available! I think with all the parts so far, excluding silicone hoses ( thanks Gary:) ) I'm in to just shy of 500 with all seal kits and the list above! Excluding all the new toys i now have like parts washer, engine stand etc etc :) Labour time definitely a factor probably took best part of three days to get the lump out, and I guess around a day to strip to where I am now. Guessing a couple of days in the bath scrubbing then rebuild it! :)
P.s definitely look good dirty, apart from when you take a wrong turn whilst on the way to wedding venue and subsequently park in their lovely car park with mud splattered and dripping off in chunks cos you got a little carried away in the field :) I still think it looked better than the shiny white car next to me :)!! But maybe that's just me :)
cheers for the help guys will keep posting when I get it scrubbed down and parts in the way :)
 
Great, feeling a bit luckier now knowing engine parts only just available! I think with all the parts so far, excluding silicone hoses ( thanks Gary:) ) I'm in to just shy of 500 with all seal kits and the list above! Excluding all the new toys i now have like parts washer, engine stand etc etc :) Labour time definitely a factor probably took best part of three days to get the lump out, and I guess around a day to strip to where I am now. Guessing a couple of days in the bath scrubbing then rebuild it! :)
P.s definitely look good dirty, apart from when you take a wrong turn whilst on the way to wedding venue and subsequently park in their lovely car park with mud splattered and dripping off in chunks cos you got a little carried away in the field :) I still think it looked better than the shiny white car next to me :)!! But maybe that's just me :)
cheers for the help guys will keep posting when I get it scrubbed down and parts in the way :)

ur welcome ref the hoses and clamps , that's a great price considering the complexity of the engine

did u manage to save ur crankshaft and block or will they require sending away , imagine it was a bitch of a job removing the engine , did u remove the gearbox , transfer box and engine in one go or managed to split it , assume if ur not careful would end up with lumps in ur socks with all that weight , lol

is indeed a very interesting thread, just feel really sorry for u , but at least the end of the day u will have an excellent new engine , u will be the tdv6 expert at the end of it

with plenty of pics of the entire engine , the new cam belt kit u got is that all reusable, did they also replace the rear fuel pump belt

keep up the great work buddy and don't think i will be the only one to follow this with interest
 
Dont feel to sorry im enjoying the challange!
Cam belt kit that was fitted is all good, going to do the belt on the rear while she's out :) block and crank good too :)

Split the block from the gearbox, supported the engine, removed the engine mounts and dropped the engine as low as it would go, giving just enough room to get the crank case top bolts!! After removing rear drive shaft!! Although there was a few interesting moments of laying on my back litrally hugging my gearbox!! came out ok. had the sump off but was only after a couple minutes of gentle persuasion and it not coming out remembered the oil pick up filter, catching on the cross member! After that slid out fine :) not sure if I'm looking forward to the return journey but I'll get there when I do :)
 
Dont feel to sorry im enjoying the challange!
Cam belt kit that was fitted is all good, going to do the belt on the rear while she's out :) block and crank good too :)

Split the block from the gearbox, supported the engine, removed the engine mounts and dropped the engine as low as it would go, giving just enough room to get the crank case top bolts!! After removing rear drive shaft!! Although there was a few interesting moments of laying on my back litrally hugging my gearbox!! came out ok. had the sump off but was only after a couple minutes of gentle persuasion and it not coming out remembered the oil pick up filter, catching on the cross member! After that slid out fine :) not sure if I'm looking forward to the return journey but I'll get there when I do :)

imagine it is indeed an interesting project , great the block and crank are ok as i know they are extremely expensive

i dare to say this, will hide behind something before i say it, is it worth seeing u have the gearbox out to do the filter sump conversion :eek:

time to run now i think ;)

shame ur not closer as i would have enjoyed giving u a hand and also learnt an interesting rebuild :)
 
Forgot to say camshaft chain rattle from cold start is very common on right hand bank, sadly as tensioner is at the rear of the head cams and belt have to come off to do tensioner, not a fortune from Island 4x4 about 120 quid plus some oil seals and defo worth doing whilst its in bits, weirdly everything Ive read says its always the right hand back that suffers?
Ive got to do mine and wish I had done it when I did the belts 2 years ago, but that will have to wait until next year now as to much to do elsewhere.
 
Does anybody know if all versions of this engine has the same crank/bearing problems, i.e. the version I believe is fitted to a Jaguar, or is it just the Landy versions, if so why?
 
All incl the 3.0 version, when I first got my 2.7 nearly 3 yrs ago there were very few threads ref D4 3.0 with issues, now they seem to be popping the odd crank and turbo and oil pipe issues, I think I read the 2.7 and 3.0 share the exact same crankshaft
But you have to bare in mind for every one that posts with issues, there are hundreds maybe thousands with no problems.

Guy at work is well into his jags, i did ask him and he hadnt come across it personally.
I asked him about spun shells/oil pump and noisy camchain issues, but most of his cars were low mileage and not very old.

I can remember when 200 first came out they had issues with cranks
300 issues with cam belts
td5 oil pump sprocket bolt dropping off scrapping motor

I would hazard a guess its the same on all makes of cars?
 
All incl the 3.0 version, when I first got my 2.7 nearly 3 yrs ago there were very few threads ref D4 3.0 with issues, now they seem to be popping the odd crank and turbo and oil pipe issues, I think I read the 2.7 and 3.0 share the exact same crankshaft
But you have to bare in mind for every one that posts with issues, there are hundreds maybe thousands with no problems.

Guy at work is well into his jags, i did ask him and he hadnt come across it personally.
I asked him about spun shells/oil pump and noisy camchain issues, but most of his cars were low mileage and not very old.

I can remember when 200 first came out they had issues with cranks
300 issues with cam belts
td5 oil pump sprocket bolt dropping off scrapping motor

I would hazard a guess its the same on all makes of cars?
Thanks @lynall for that, we get these vehicles down under but not in heavy enough concentrations, specially up in the bush where I live, to find out what's good and what's not. You get the situation where the big numbers are in the big cities, ( naturally). We get a few Landies passing through on the way up to the Cape, but I have noticed a fair few of the late Discos and RRs being transported on tilt trays, so some don't make it and no way of knowing what has stopped them. And I've never seen a Jag up here, anywhere ever, I think, not a suitable vehicle to travel up this far, ground clearance issues possibly.
Neither of our two repair shops in town will do any work on Landies, their forte' is Toyota 'Cruisers, and not interested to do much else.
I'd like a later Disco than my D1, but some of the failures I've seen on here, this thread for example, makes me shake with fear and trepidation. If you break down up here in the North of Australia you can be a really, really long way from help.
So far I've been able to keep the D1 300tdi going, and it has always made it home.
Sorry @Richiep for a diversion, but it appears that the V6 diesel has a certain weakness in the bottom end, and as much as I'd like to upgrade to a later Disco, the issue has me bothered. Btw, yours looks like a really nice well looked after example, such a shame to have to go through this drama, good luck with the rebuild I will follow with interest.
 
following this and also seeing other engine failures

don't know why but mainly being 2007 onwards , for some unknown reason there's mainly been oil pump failures , crank shafts snapping

something surely must have changed , think we can all agree the quality diminished ,maybe there tooling setup

but then as mentioned heard of 2009 snapping cranks

could it ever be tuning that's causing issues ??

mines a late 2005 , at. 98,000 miles , the belts had already been done , however the back belt wasn't done and the front oil pump cover was also weeping some oil, so the entire lot was removed and replaced with all new belts, tensioners , inc the rear belt and also a new oil pump

since then blanked the egrs and a complete service , feel i can't do anymore apart from keeping it well maintained , really feel for @Richiep with his

alas like all landies they come with problems, rusty chassis , vcus , failed ird, haldex units, etc etc

yet we still adore them , put up with there tantrums and i for one wouldn't have any other way :)
 
Ive had land rover for years, might one day get a D4 but in all reality whats it going to do that the D3 cant? just much more money for more of the same and as for the D5!
 
Ok, so bath day today!!! Cleaned off all the pistons and rods to find number six badly scored!! And five heat damaged and worn! Ali sump extender snapped on starter motor mounting! Then final kick in the balls, a hole in the block where there really shouldn't be one :( so step in doner engine :) rescued Ali extender, and old block which doesn't have Extra holes just bad looking barrels, out with the honer and start praying for the engine God to give me a break :)
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shame that land rover don't take responsibility for some of the snapped cranks and at least supply a short engine for customers

think it would go along way
 
@Richiep, have you any ideas/indications what caused that hole in the block?
Previous engine explosion, perhaps, then a shoddy reassembly job.
If thats the case it reminds me of a Toyota Landcruiser a guy I knew bought years ago, diesel engine had been "hydrauliced" in a deep water crossing and broken a rod, someone , (previous owner?), did a quick "bodge" job to get the engine to run again then swiftly traded it in, it was a low kilometre immaculate looking vehicle with a very defective heart. Cost the guy a small fortune for a new complete engine.
 
Hi Gazbo,
The thought had crossed my mind, this was apparently a recon engine around 18 months ago (20,000 miles) i guess this is the problem with recon engines :( seems to be alot of damage in different places? Piston damaged on different cylinder to bearing fail and hole in differ place than either of the other faults!?! Anyone else think of how these are related?? still have high hopes for the doner block, fingers crossed she will clean up ok!!
 

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