@mystery My hazard switch wiring is different to the one you've just posted.

Mine looks more like
 

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Is the bulb not working an MOT failure?

Why not just wire the bulb independently so it lights up when you turn on the ignition. Run a wire from one side of the bulb to any ignition switched live.
Connect the other side of the bulb to an earth.
 
Is the bulb not working an MOT failure?

Why not just wire the bulb independently so it lights up when you turn on the ignition. Run a wire from one side of the bulb to any ignition switched live.
Connect the other side of the bulb to an earth.
That'll mean the bulb is on all the time rather than flashing to show the indicators are on.

Col
 
The one in my 110 was on all the time, l guess so you can find the switch in the dark.
You could connect it to the side light feed, if you don’t want it on at all times.
 
Oh sorry my mistake.
I was thinking about the TD5 where the indicator is in the switch.
Of course what l suggested won’t work on an older Land Rover where there’s a separate indicator lamp.
 
From that image, it's the purple and green cables at the bottom of the indicator.

Whatever is occurring is definitely a major mashup up wires somewhere. She's had the bulk head removed twice and no doubt has had some bodge job cabling.

However, the indicators have worked for a few years, until I decided to stick my hand in there as the hazards stopped working.

Now you indicate in any direction and all indicator lights come on
 
the circuit is ground through the none energised indicator lamps which is the same as series one / two and series 3 Land Rovers later defenders (300TDI &TD5) have warning lamps for both side and use a ground return for each lampView attachment 207595

IMO this would put a voltage on the non energised lamps but maybe not enough the light them up?
 
@mystery Can't thank you enough for your help in solving this. And everyone else that joined in, it was a battle no one would ever win.

So... it seems that whoever had it before bodged the wiring. Meaning when I replaced the hazard switch with a new one, the traditional feeds into the switch were doing different things.

I figured it out by putting in a switch but without any of the parts within the switch in it and with that everything worked again. The one bit that didn't was the hazard lights, as I'd removed the internal plastic part that touches the terminals when switched. So I essentially re bodged the hazard switch and it works.

THe joys of having a 30 year old landy
 
@mystery

Newest Problem. Now, when I turn the ignition on but not start the truck the fuel gauge and battery gauge work as they should.

As soon as I turn the engine on they both drop to nothing. Obviously yet another wiring issue, but any clues?
 
is the battery fully charged ignition switch working and does the engine crank or try to crank
 

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