I'm not a defender expert by any means but basic electrickery makes me ask

Do you get the 8v in sync with the indicator i.e. on, off, on, off?
Assuming it's a 12v system 8v is a bit low.
If you have 8v on either side of the bulb then there must be no earth connected to the bulb. Even if there was a poor earth you should see a voltage drop across the bulb.
My guess is you have high resistance to the bulb and no earth from the bulb.
 
I get 8volts to it.

I couldn't see any issues when I looked. I also held the voltmeter on the contact area for the bulb, either side of it and was getting current either side. So let's say I indicate right, the current goes from the steering wheel, to dash, then through the bulb and into the cable for the left indicator and on it's merry way to an earth point.

So electricity is crossing from one side to the other side of the bulb, 8 volts, but nothing else happens. It's also definitely getting from the contact point back to the wire as I've checked on the opposite cable running of the bulb.

I'd assumed it should be 12 volts running to the bulbs, but don't get a twinkle at 8 and can't find anything online saying it must be 12 volts.

The oil light runs at 10 volts.
 
I'm not a defender expert by any means but basic electrickery makes me ask

Do you get the 8v in sync with the indicator i.e. on, off, on, off?
Assuming it's a 12v system 8v is a bit low.
If you have 8v on either side of the bulb then there must be no earth connected to the bulb. Even if there was a poor earth you should see a voltage drop across the bulb.
My guess is you have high resistance to the bulb and no earth from the bulb.

8vt on/off either side of the bulb. Maybe it's just running too low and something is draining it on that wire. But it would have to be draining it purely on the indicator circuit as the hazard switch gets 12volt to it, the relay is running at 10.

Didn't know if there was a resistor to bring it down to 8 however if there is a resistor, it's always been there and this problem only started when I stuck my hand in the nest of wires. Damn my tinkering!
 
I'm gonna have a look at that wiring diagram and see if I can figure it out, been a while since I used one.
If it's a 12v bulb I would assume it should have 12v or there abouts.
If you are getting 8v either side of the bulb then you have no current flow as there would be a voltage drop across the bulb.
The dash bulb must be on the indicator bulb/output side of the relay otherwise it would not flash so, the relay must be ok, unless LR put a little one in just for the dash.:)
You say you ran a temp earth from the hazard switch to the chassis, I thought it was the dash bulb?
I'd do what @Colthebrummie says and try an earth from the bulb. If you take the bulb out and measure either side of the holder you should only have the 8v on one side.
 
Looking at the diagram the dash bulb has a separate earth to the indicator bulbs. I am confused as to how the bulb can get power from one side without it feeding back to the other unless it has a special bulb holder? anyone?

If the dash circuit has a common earth I think you need to be lookin where @mystery suggests.

Defender indicator.JPG


Edit: What voltage have you got at the indicator bulbs?
 
the circuit is ground through the none energised indicator lamps which is the same as series one / two and series 3 Land Rovers later defenders (300TDI &TD5) have warning lamps for both side and use a ground return for each lamp
VENTS.png
 
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the circuit is ground through the none energised indicator lamps which is the same as series one / two and series 3 Land Rovers later defenders (300TDI &TD5) have warning lamps for both side and use a ground return for each lampView attachment 207595

I see. That would explain the 8v across the first bulb, with the remaining 4v across the other 3. But only if he had 12v across the bulb :confused:
 
you can have voltage without current flow. If you disconnect your battery it still has 12v even though there is no current.
 

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