right done a bit more reading reference the key.
I have just pressed the lock button in quick succession and the alarm light went out for appox 10 seconds then came back on. no doors unlocked..
so i had another go and the same thing,
any ideas..
 
Tillytomp,

You pressed the LOCK button and the doors did NOT unlock.

Cheers

PS the things in front of the rear wheels were they hinged?
 
Tillytomp,

You pressed the LOCK button and the doors did NOT unlock.

Cheers

PS the things in front of the rear wheels were they hinged?
Ha Ha Ha, yeah you have me on that one, BUT i have just been outside and tried the UNLOCK :) button, and again, pressed about 8 times the alarm light goes out for about ten seconds

yeah operated a lever type thing:rolleyes:
 
its on the plugs to the ECU thats why we are gonna change it .

they are underneth, in front of each rear wheel and have soming to do with the leveling system(as you can now see, im not a mechanic)

quite confident can get the ltach sorted

The injector loom, which is the bit you're probably going to replace is the loom inside the cam cover to the seal at the right hand front corner. The oil runs down the wires, inside the insulation so you'll not easily see it to the red ECU plug. Some members use brake cleaner, some use IPA to clean it out, it can take a few goes to drain it out completely. At its worst, it can also run into the inside of the ECU, which can cause or continue the problems.
The "pins" underneath sound as if they're part of the mountings of the height sensors, if that's the case, disconnect the battery BEFORE you do anything. You'll save yourself having to get the rear suspension recalibrated afterwards.
The latch sounds like the usual problem with the Disco door latches. Be prepared to have to change the whole gubbins (lovely word that - gubbins), they aren't easy to get into and they're all in one lump. I had to replace my driver's door latch for that very problem just a month ago. had to do the rear passenger's door at the same time for the same problem.
 
where did you get your latches from, not doing it yet, will be a couplle of weeks

Driver's door part number: FQJ102880
From landroversparesuk on ebay. £78.00 new plus £8.00 carriage.

The rear one was a bit of a tale, the new one was faulty and because I have to park out in the street there was no way I could secure the vehicle. I got a second user on also on ebay.
Each latch is individual to each door.
This bloke has done a load of work on his Disco and documented almost everything online with loads of pictures. We likes pictures!
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/
 
thanks for the link, is all of that required, if so would all the stalk, speakers and amp work??
You will not need the sub out adapter and possibly not the antenna converter but you will need the amp output to HK input adapter, Kenwood to steering wheel adapter lead and the steering wheel control adapter box. I have u sed these and they work perfectly (including the dash spacer bar in-fill piece)
 
Hi Tillytomp,

EKA code can be shown and reprogrammed with nanocom.

Key fob , as long as it has the little sticker on the key fob chip can be programmed into the car and checked.

Cheers
How on earth do you get the key apart to tell, I have looked but can't seem to find out, I can get it half open but don't want to break it grrrrrr
 
Oh they are a PITA, where the key ring goes is a slot, then you pry them apart, curse, pinch your fingertips, curse some more and then it pops apart. Just do not shove anything in the gap as you may damage the PCB.

Cheers
 
Jesus, I though you were joking, only got 3 fingers left now, but done it, Is this the sticker mentioned?
 

Attachments

  • 20160715_213830.jpg
    20160715_213830.jpg
    136.7 KB · Views: 131
And another question :rolleyes:
The rear headphone sockets /controls, what are they about, what can you listen too
As always, Cheers Neil
 

Similar threads