No idea mate - it would make sense as it would charge the leisure then stop charging it when main volts drop.
I’m assuming it’s usually empty and that durite loom is piggy backing into it. It also seems too convenient that LR would’ve left an empty positive though?!
I do overcomplicate it all and that’s why it confuses me so always have to stop and dumb it down.
As I would understand it, you have one brown wire to fuse box and one negative. They run several fuses and that fuse box is fit to cope with the max overall draw.
I do overcomplicate it all and that’s why it confuses me so always have to stop and dumb it down.
As I would understand it, you have one brown wire to fuse box and one negative. They run several fuses and that fuse box is fit to cope with the max overall draw.
Is it where they would run a permanent live to the tow socket, but as your branches off it had that relay bit put in for an extra battery.
If you don’t need it then just pull it out.
J
That’s a fair shout. I have no experience towing and if I ever do tow I’ll use my pickup. I think it must branch off twice as one socket near rear light inside (leisure battery I assume) and then a socket for towing at the tow ball.
Those relays are 60 quid a pop!!! So pig either spent its life driving around pheasant pens changing the wire fence batteries or looking after temporary traffic light setups
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Durite box is a split charge relay for a dual battery set up. Wont allow volts back. They are handy things to have.
I use the electronic version for 24-12v set up
I use the electronic version for 24-12v set up
I’ll keep hold of it just couldn’t work out if the place it’s plugged is meant to have something plugged there as standard. As Marjon said, maybe it’s purposely there for rear trailer. I’m just trying to get all wiring tidied up. I’ve started building my fuse board and if I don’t need the feed into that fuse box I’ll use the cable to route to my fuse box as doubt it’ll need over 50amp. I’ve thicker cable here but not really any need. It’ll be for gauges and the low coolant alarm 
The eager eyed amongst you will notice pic was originally green. Which is a bit of a shame as I do like a green d1.
The paint job is diy - a one stage product. It’s tatty in places but that’s not really too much upset - whoever did it actually didn’t do a bad job. There’s a bit of crap in it in places, bit of flake off but it’s an old Landy.
Much like old red cars from past years, it had a dusty tired, faded top layer. Without being too aggressive I gave it a once over.
Clay bar and one pass of farcela (sp?) not chasing full paint correction. I may chase it a bit further in future. I went with a light pad and lowish speeds to prevent too much thickness loss. I think I could get it beaming if i wanted as did a spot of high speed cut on bonnet and it popped.
I may be banished, but, I think im going to chequer plate the bonnet. It’s got some kind of solvent damage on the paint right where chequer plate would cover it. Also means I can throw a bags/drinks and my rifle bipod on bonnet. Anyway…
Oil pressure and temp sensor gauges have turned up, I’ve half built aux fuse box and the gauges and parrot phone thing will be going in a mud pod above stereo. 2 in one as it will cover holes in dash
The paint job is diy - a one stage product. It’s tatty in places but that’s not really too much upset - whoever did it actually didn’t do a bad job. There’s a bit of crap in it in places, bit of flake off but it’s an old Landy.
Much like old red cars from past years, it had a dusty tired, faded top layer. Without being too aggressive I gave it a once over.
Clay bar and one pass of farcela (sp?) not chasing full paint correction. I may chase it a bit further in future. I went with a light pad and lowish speeds to prevent too much thickness loss. I think I could get it beaming if i wanted as did a spot of high speed cut on bonnet and it popped.
I may be banished, but, I think im going to chequer plate the bonnet. It’s got some kind of solvent damage on the paint right where chequer plate would cover it. Also means I can throw a bags/drinks and my rifle bipod on bonnet. Anyway…
Oil pressure and temp sensor gauges have turned up, I’ve half built aux fuse box and the gauges and parrot phone thing will be going in a mud pod above stereo. 2 in one as it will cover holes in dash
This is genius. The egr coolant sensor in the head was naturally unplugged. Previous owner turned it into a tippex pot and pen to mark the headbolt torque angles. This is a good sign I think as HG will have been done, hopefully as preventative.
In other news, I got a sender adapter for the oil filter housing. It said don’t over tighten all over the eBay listing and on it itself. So I overtightened and snapped it
. I really didn’t put much torque through it!
So sender and oil pipes now off, clean spare being installed and I’ll have to stud extract and clean the old one before it goes on an engine.
Means she now gets a ridiculously early oil service but that won’t hurt will it! Now waiting for fresh oil, head sensor adapter (if anyone needs this for durite gauge it’s 1/8npt to m10 x 1. I.e fine thread (I hope!).
In other news, I got a sender adapter for the oil filter housing. It said don’t over tighten all over the eBay listing and on it itself. So I overtightened and snapped it
. I really didn’t put much torque through it!So sender and oil pipes now off, clean spare being installed and I’ll have to stud extract and clean the old one before it goes on an engine.
Means she now gets a ridiculously early oil service but that won’t hurt will it! Now waiting for fresh oil, head sensor adapter (if anyone needs this for durite gauge it’s 1/8npt to m10 x 1. I.e fine thread (I hope!).
I have one last little leak to sort and can’t for the life of me work out where it’s getting in!! It comes out of the bottom of the b pillar, on the inside, where the door seal goes. Literally drips from the bottom of the double skinned bit. I’ve done a fair bit of tidying up seals etc but I just want work out the route the water is taking to get inbetween the join somewhere and trail down
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Watering can & UV dye ?
A pillar! Yeah and isolate where I pour it I guess! The bloody track of the water is hidden between the pressed seam. I still need to puraflex the top of windscreen which may be culprit - who knows. Weird that it’s drivers only that suffers with it. So close to it being dry!
I’ve sealed up pretty much everywhere I can think of bar the alpines as they look like they may need some patching in the future. Not convinced it’s from there.
Took it to a specialist last week for a check over and brake bleed. Few bits on the list but mechanically they think it’s pretty tidy.
Drive wise the steering wheel is slightly on the **** and it’s a bit wandery. It’s got hd rear springs on back which don’t help.
I need to replace a half shaft - looking for one of them that’s oem quality seems harder than it should be. Can never tell what your ordering. I remember there used to be a way of selecting ‘g’ coded parts but can’t remember what site I used!!
I started a thread about the electrics. I thought MFU might be junked but tried one from my other and no difference.
Got issues with:
Rear screen doesn’t click down (flashes when I start car)
Windows not working properly - passenger window dropped down on startup.
Rear fog not working - no idea why.
I sorted the windows today. I thought it’d all be related but I had a duff switch and the regulator had a load of fibrous stuff in it. Cleaned everything, re greased and replaced a crusty window guide and switch and no in business which is a winner.
I changed the wiper stalk and also cleaned all contacts. Relay clicks. Wipers almost bulge at the scuttle when you try to activate them so think they’re actually seized and the electrical problem is actually seized parts.
Took it to a specialist last week for a check over and brake bleed. Few bits on the list but mechanically they think it’s pretty tidy.
Drive wise the steering wheel is slightly on the **** and it’s a bit wandery. It’s got hd rear springs on back which don’t help.
I need to replace a half shaft - looking for one of them that’s oem quality seems harder than it should be. Can never tell what your ordering. I remember there used to be a way of selecting ‘g’ coded parts but can’t remember what site I used!!
I started a thread about the electrics. I thought MFU might be junked but tried one from my other and no difference.
Got issues with:
Rear screen doesn’t click down (flashes when I start car)
Windows not working properly - passenger window dropped down on startup.
Rear fog not working - no idea why.
I sorted the windows today. I thought it’d all be related but I had a duff switch and the regulator had a load of fibrous stuff in it. Cleaned everything, re greased and replaced a crusty window guide and switch and no in business which is a winner.
I changed the wiper stalk and also cleaned all contacts. Relay clicks. Wipers almost bulge at the scuttle when you try to activate them so think they’re actually seized and the electrical problem is actually seized parts.
Wiper unit was totally seized as suspected from the bulging on the scuttle when activated. One of the splines was locked solid. Left it soaking in diesel and freed up then de - rusted and re-assembled and installed. Once again, old shock bushes replaced the originals.
Intermittent wiper doesn’t work. I’m still suspecting this MFU. The courtesy lights chose when they work and rear fog still doesn’t work.
I have a dicky front door switch that needs sorting. Hoping I can even run the test function on the MFU.
@sierrafery advised to bridge the fog to replicate it being closed. I’ll get door switch sorted first which looks like a rusty earth (earths itself via its mounting screw)
One win at a time - we have wipers so can actually use her
Intermittent wiper doesn’t work. I’m still suspecting this MFU. The courtesy lights chose when they work and rear fog still doesn’t work.
I have a dicky front door switch that needs sorting. Hoping I can even run the test function on the MFU.
@sierrafery advised to bridge the fog to replicate it being closed. I’ll get door switch sorted first which looks like a rusty earth (earths itself via its mounting screw)
One win at a time - we have wipers so can actually use her
Door switch fixed, intermittent wiper fixed, courtesy light fixed and warning buzzer that I’ve left the lights on works. This all suggests to me that the original MFU works and fog is more lightly to be wiring.
Hopefully I’m not being really stupid right now - is rear fog switch the one on the left?! The one on the right has a switch with cut wires which I assumed was where I don’t have front fogs
Hopefully I’m not being really stupid right now - is rear fog switch the one on the left?! The one on the right has a switch with cut wires which I assumed was where I don’t have front fogs
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Fog on opposite side to the reverse light…
(Think drivers side fog)
