domino

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2014

• #1

Well, apart from it developing another 'EAS Fault' 100 miles in to the journey (despite having just had £600 spent with a specialist to sort it all out 2 days prior..!) I have just driven the 440 odd miles home and she didn't miss a beat!

Not even when we were stuck in the jams on the M6 for 2 hours in 26 degrees + - no over heating, no dramas of any sort.

Just gotta sort out the wheel balancing (bit of a wobble at 80+) and we're golden.

Love it so far

 

M

matt1987

New Member

• Jul 31, 2014

• #2

Wheel balancing normally starts at 50 and goes by 65 tops, ive had tyres with water in recently at work.

 

domino

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2014

• #3

Hmm, defo after 80ish and lasts for 10+ish. It's really quite bad too.

 

D

donp38

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2014

• #4

get them done by a place you know.

then lets see?

 

domino

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2014

• #5

Yeah, will do.

Just need to get used to it as well. There are whines and clicks and noises and what not that I'm not sure on so a but more research and driving should see things sorted soon enough.

Need to get the EAS software plugged in too and see what's up with it before I call the specialist and get some money back.

 

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Full Member

• Jul 31, 2014

• #6

Stick to the speed limit then

 

wil2813

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2014

• #7

id be looking at something else if you have vibration at 80 mph

 

domino

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2014

• #8

Any suggestions as to what?

I've read people going on about a 'steering damper' but not entirely sure what that is.

 

Chewster

Active Member

• Aug 1, 2014

• #9

It's basically a shock absorber that should (when working) iron out any small vibration from the drive train, but they do get worn out and then vibration can increase

ANR2640 | Steering Damper - Britpart

You're better off seeing if there's play in yours before replacing anything though as vibration can come from lots of things, I had quite bad vibration once and the local indy found it was a propshaft that had got out of kilter - swapped it out and good as new

I wouldn't chuck parts at it until you know what it is, wheel balancing is cheap and quick as a first off but make sure they don't just do it the cheap way, road force balancing is best if you can get it as this can pick up if you have a knackered tyre (ie with a flat spot, or just out of shape) If the car was parked up for a long period they can get flat spots. Hope you get it sorted!

 

domino

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2014

• #10

Thanks

I have 2 mechanics/garages 200 yards either side of me, both of them very good friends so i'm sure between the three of us we'll get these things ironed out!

 

domino

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2014

• #11

Just been looking through the paperwork - last MOT shows an advisory for the NSF track rod end & balljoint. Sounds like the problem to me!

 

Datatek

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2014

• #12

domino said:

Just been looking through the paperwork - last MOT shows an advisory for the NSF track rod end & balljoint. Sounds like the problem to me!

Click to expand...

Loose track rod and drag link joints can cause the steering to wobble/tramline badly. I replaced both on mine.

 

domino

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2014

• #13

Yeah, think that's what I'll be getting replaced first!

 

Datatek

Well-Known Member

• Aug 2, 2014

• #14

domino said:

Yeah, think that's what I'll be getting replaced first!

Click to expand...

Tyres and tyre pressures are also critical. With the Wranglers, mine was much better with 28psi in the rears when unloaded. The Nexen's are happy at the correct higher pressure