Something like hammerite Krust off ? I have flap wheels for the angle grinder & wire brushes for the drill/Dremmel so I'll get off what I can with those then resort to elbow grease, thanks again.
Is that for if I go wading ? I didn't think you could get lead based paint anymore, looks like good stuff & would probably give our 9st postie a hernia delivering thatWash your hands before you eat your sandwiches!
https://www.traditionalboatsupplies.com/leadbasedproducts/43-red-lead-paint.html
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
A wire brush for the angle grinder works best (there are a couple of shapes), but wear eye/face/body protection, as sometimes the odd wire escapes at high speed, and can stick in to whatever it hits.
Once the surface is mechanically clean, I'd use Bilt Hamber Deox gel rust remover, which is about as good as is possible to get, while remaining affordable.
Then treat with Bonda for long term protection against future rust.
Sorry Rob for butting in on your thread
it just reminded me (rust/paint treatment) of what I need to do to my LR's when the weather improves.
+1 - Deox and Bonda are excellent. I like to paint with Tractol enamel afterwards - and have achieved very good results....
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Years ago, a mate of mine, whilst restoring his beloved motorbike, had the frame powder coated. 3 years later it practically broke in half due to unseen corrosion under the coating. It put me off powder coating for life.
Col
Col
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
No worries at all! If Defenders can have galv chassis, why not FL galv subframes?Sorry Rob for butting in on your thread
Turboman
Mab An Gov
It is good stuff. Paint has never been the same since they took the lead out of it.Is that for if I go wading ? I didn't think you could get lead based paint anymore, looks like good stuff & would probably give our 9st postie a hernia delivering that
It isn't a good idea to use it for interior woodwork, but it shouldn't be a problem if used carefully in applications like the underside of a vehicle, or the hull of a boat.
It hasn't been impossible to get, but not easy, but now it seems to more freely available.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Doubt if you would get a problem with heavy structures like subframes.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
One good thing about paint is that it is quick, and you can do it yourself.
I imagine most galv places have quite a long lead time for small jobs at the moment, in common with most other industries.
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
true!
v8250
Well-Known Member
@rob_bell , there's always a mixed view between powder coating and zinc based primer + top coating. Re' powder coating, it depends upon who's doing the work, the temperature of the coating and type of coating. I find very few really do the job well using high grade industrial powder coating. But it does have its place.
Re' zinc primer, it's normally an ideal base layer [Bonda Primer is first rate], there are others from Dinitrol and Buzzweld and/or a proper modern epoxy primer. For a top coat the very best is UPOL Raptor - it comes in plain matte black and a tintable version. I've used this on many classic rally cars and on some of my Ninety under body components. It's as tough as old nails and is even used on some WRC car underbodies. Note: Raptor is a 2k paint that contains isocyanate and so you need to wear proper PPE.
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/products/raptor-bed-liner-protective-coating-uk#.YhZyuOj7RPY
Re' zinc primer, it's normally an ideal base layer [Bonda Primer is first rate], there are others from Dinitrol and Buzzweld and/or a proper modern epoxy primer. For a top coat the very best is UPOL Raptor - it comes in plain matte black and a tintable version. I've used this on many classic rally cars and on some of my Ninety under body components. It's as tough as old nails and is even used on some WRC car underbodies. Note: Raptor is a 2k paint that contains isocyanate and so you need to wear proper PPE.
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/products/raptor-bed-liner-protective-coating-uk#.YhZyuOj7RPY
