then apply an acid rust killer to remove all traces of rust
Something like hammerite Krust off ? I have flap wheels for the angle grinder & wire brushes for the drill/Dremmel so I'll get off what I can with those then resort to elbow grease, thanks again.
 
Something like hammerite Krust off ? I have flap wheels for the angle grinder & wire brushes for the drill/Dremmel so I'll get off what I can with those then resort to elbow grease, thanks again.
A wire brush for the angle grinder works best (there are a couple of shapes), but wear eye/face/body protection, as sometimes the odd wire escapes at high speed, and can stick in to whatever it hits.

Once the surface is mechanically clean, I'd use Bilt Hamber Deox gel rust remover, which is about as good as is possible to get, while remaining affordable.

Then treat with Bonda for long term protection against future rust.
 
Thanks chaps - really interesting read.

I like the idea of galvanising - not sure about the heat distortion though…?
 
Thanks chaps - really interesting read.

I like the idea of galvanising - not sure about the heat distortion though…?
Sorry Rob for butting in on your thread :oops: it just reminded me (rust/paint treatment) of what I need to do to my LR's when the weather improves:).
 
Once the surface is mechanically clean, I'd use Bilt Hamber Deox gel rust remover, which is about as good as is possible to get, while remaining affordable.

Then treat with Bonda for long term protection against future rust.

+1 - Deox and Bonda are excellent. I like to paint with Tractol enamel afterwards - and have achieved very good results....
 
Good one, thanks. Thought to get the ARB re-coated for a while as the bushes otherwise die more often. Have some rust converter and primer from Wurth, which I might use and hopefully can do the underbody and other bits when it's a bit warmer.
 
Is that for if I go wading ? I didn't think you could get lead based paint anymore, looks like good stuff & would probably give our 9st postie a hernia delivering that:):).
It is good stuff. Paint has never been the same since they took the lead out of it.
It isn't a good idea to use it for interior woodwork, but it shouldn't be a problem if used carefully in applications like the underside of a vehicle, or the hull of a boat.
It hasn't been impossible to get, but not easy, but now it seems to more freely available.
 
I think I'll paint for now. But may be if I can find a pair of spare subframes, I could get those galvanised in preparation for the "next time"!
One good thing about paint is that it is quick, and you can do it yourself.
I imagine most galv places have quite a long lead time for small jobs at the moment, in common with most other industries.
 
@rob_bell , there's always a mixed view between powder coating and zinc based primer + top coating. Re' powder coating, it depends upon who's doing the work, the temperature of the coating and type of coating. I find very few really do the job well using high grade industrial powder coating. But it does have its place.

Re' zinc primer, it's normally an ideal base layer [Bonda Primer is first rate], there are others from Dinitrol and Buzzweld and/or a proper modern epoxy primer. For a top coat the very best is UPOL Raptor - it comes in plain matte black and a tintable version. I've used this on many classic rally cars and on some of my Ninety under body components. It's as tough as old nails and is even used on some WRC car underbodies. Note: Raptor is a 2k paint that contains isocyanate and so you need to wear proper PPE.

https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/products/raptor-bed-liner-protective-coating-uk#.YhZyuOj7RPY
 
Thanks!

maybe I should go to Retropower engineering and get them to hot-zinc spray them and then Raptor… but I have a hunch I won’t be able to afford their services (but I love their work!)
 

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