GreenHornet said:
If the valve isn't seating correctly then blow back would be present and give the same symptoms as cracked head etc.

If you have run the engine for a while with valves that haven't seated correctly, then there is a chance that the seats and the valves t he selves are damaged.

An engine always runs better older diesel when cold. Fact of life. Perhaps with veg oil there wasn't enough compression to run properly until warm due to open valve on compression stroke
Click to expand...
Well found the angles for valve seats if i need to recut them as they are fairly big. Freind of mine has the cutters. Worse case is i have to buy some new valves. Undid the oil filler cap with engine running earlier, sounded like a bottle of fizzy drink being opened lol. Think it may have blown the rear crank seal aswell, as the bell housing is soaked in oil and its lost a fair amount. Oh well i guess its back off the road until fixed
 
Umm that's a bugger. Is the oil in the bell housing? Sometimes the rocket cover seals at the back can blow and spill oil all down the back. Also can spill over the exhaust and cause fires but that's another story
 
alex8882 said:
Just re checked the tappets, and had to adjust 5 back to 0.20mm. its been said that maybe the reason the inlet tract is getting pressure beacuse of an inlet valve being burnt, or not seating correctly. Anybody think this could be a possibility. checked the tappets to see if any of them were to tight
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inlet manifold is under pressure as turbo creates boost ,if you have a poor valve you should her it chuff in which ever manifold
 
@jm. the pressure is only there when on tick over. up the revs to say 1000rpms and its sucking as it should, let it idle and its blowing again. been told it could be the actuator could be stuck or knackerd. i'm getting 15.5 psi of boost, but thats taking the reading from the t-piece off the turbo not the manifold
 
alex8882 said:
@jm. the pressure is only there when on tick over. up the revs to say 1000rpms and its sucking as it should, let it idle and its blowing again. been told it could be the actuator could be stuck or knackerd. i'm getting 15.5 psi of boost, but thats taking the reading from the t-piece off the turbo not the manifold
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wheres the pressure noticed when removing filler cap ?
 
i've got pressure coming out of the air filter and snorkle on tick over, as for crank case pressure that was coming out of the oil filler cap, however it seems to have ease off alot now, still pressure in the inlet tracted. also here is a vid of the smoke and miss. Also look at around 39secs when the revs pick up onto boost how the miss all but goes????
20130119 095319 - YouTube
 
Could this be knackered injectors? Or even Timing?

If it was petrol I would have said the timing was out and the fuelling needed checking.


Could of at least videod it off road..................lol
 
timing has been checking as the cambelt was done around 3000mls ago but this started around a month ago. could well be a injector, but its the pressure inside the rocker box, and the inlet tracted thats worrying. all three problems started around the same time. need turn the pump down as this was done before i owned the car. once warmed up no blue smoke just black.
As for the off road shot no point the thing would only brake another part plus my cv joints are ready to take a walk on the outside
 
Black smoke when warm is over fuelling, surely.

In the video, it looked like it was missing and then as the revs picked up it was clearing a bit.

Something that doesn't cost anything is checking the timing and removing the injectors and checking them.

If the timing is out you will get the fuel pump delivering pressured fuel when the valves are open and that could be causing blowback etc
 
i'll give it try. the pump is over fuelling as its turned up to much. the miss fire goes when warm. i'll pull the injectors also. used fatory marks for timing, but is it possible for it to slip after 3000mls of running fine. something amiss as i'm getting v8 mpg's at the min lol
 
It's as easy to de-tune the pump as it is to tune it so read the threads and work backwards.

If when changing the belt, you didn't tighten the three bolts on the fuel pump correctly, for example, (not saying you didn't honest), it may be possible that the pulley could have moved or even jumped a tooth.

Did you lock the flywheel and the pump when changing the belt? Just asking lol.

Getting low MPG on a diesel does say its over fuelling so check injectors, pump timing.
 
Well the truth of the matter is that you are gonna have to go through the lot until you find the issue.

Start with the fuel coming in and the timing, then work from there. That's what I would do.
 
GreenHornet said:
Well the truth of the matter is that you are gonna have to go through the lot until you find the issue.

Start with the fuel coming in and the timing, then work from there. That's what I would do.
Click to expand...

ok well cheers for the advice fella, gives me a place to start. i'll sort the pump out tomorrow hopefully get that bugger turned down abit. then start looking at the timing to see if it has slipped. hopefully its just that, but it's a landy so you never know lol
 
It's Landy so it can't be much. That's why I like the 200's, there is nothing electrical to go wrong, just nuts and bolts.

Lets know how you get on, I will be building a snow man with my son and then off roading in the white stuff
 
lucky you lol. no snow here. ok scratch that it's drizzling snow. was going to adjust my fuel pump. its the ve pump not edc. Mine seems to have very little eletrics not sure why lol
 
ok so the head is off, found that aleast 5 out of 8valves wern't seating right so got some lapping to do lol very sooty aswell. mate of mine tells me that there is also to much movement in my pistons typical as i didn't order the bloody rings. lastly the bores are glazed again. i have turned the pump down but its still puffing out black when first started.
 
alex8882 said:
ok so the head is off, found that aleast 5 out of 8valves wern't seating right so got some lapping to do lol very sooty aswell. mate of mine tells me that there is also to much movement in my pistons typical as i didn't order the bloody rings. lastly the bores are glazed again. i have turned the pump down but its still puffing out black when first started.
Click to expand...
dont take your mates word for it ,measure just below top part of were rings reach ,acroos the block is were they wear fore and aft tells you what it was as it doesnt wear there,but you do need a proper bore compariter and 2-3 inch mic to measure bores,dont fit new rings to old bores it wil soon be much worse
 
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