Thank you both for the confirmation re second hand key fobs: I had read this. However, maybe I didn't make myself clear: these key fobs are NOS - new-old-stock - i.e. brand new, never been used ones. I've looked very closely at them and they are not knock-offs - inside the battery compartment the board looks exactly as it should: same as my very used one, except they are totally new & clean. They come with the correct stickers re fob 1 to 4, a proper (loose) blank key and new roll-pin to fit it to the flick-out assy. ~£16 each.
So, do we think a dealership can still program these?
I'll try the penknife/hammer on the next one I need to take apart - bit late now for this one ;-)

Oh, and I also bought & fitted one of P38 parts shop RF receiver filters (cut's out false BCM triggering) - definatly made a difference to the time the car battery lasts charged if the vehicle isn't used for a while.

The only place that can program the keys is Hof in Germany and only one bloke there knows how to do it so when he goes on leave you have to wait.

That said, if you have a working key then I believe @MrSporty on here or Les at Classic Rides North Wales may have the kit to program them. iirc the fob codeis transmitted and the key number is added on the end together with the rolling code. Martyuk once showed me mine using a device he had knocked up to capture the fob signal but I think he's still out of the country.
 
Edit - they gone up a bit now £17.35 inc postage

That's worrying. Makes me think Hof might have had a clearout or had a break-in.
 
Thank you both for the confirmation re second hand key fobs: I had read this. However, maybe I didn't make myself clear: these key fobs are NOS - new-old-stock - i.e. brand new, never been used ones. I've looked very closely at them and they are not knock-offs - inside the battery compartment the board looks exactly as it should: same as my very used one, except they are totally new & clean. They come with the correct stickers re fob 1 to 4, a proper (loose) blank key and new roll-pin to fit it to the flick-out assy. ~£16 each.
So, do we think a dealership can still program these?
I'll try the penknife/hammer on the next one I need to take apart - bit late now for this one ;-)

Oh, and I also bought & fitted one of P38 parts shop RF receiver filters (cut's out false BCM triggering) - definatly made a difference to the time the car battery lasts charged if the vehicle isn't used for a while.
No dealer can program the P38 FOB, only the German manufacturer can do that, they have to be ordered for the specific vehicle. Even if you have handy the kit to program the chip, unless you know the code to write into the chip you can do nothing.
 
The only place that can program the keys is Hof in Germany and only one bloke there knows how to do it so when he goes on leave you have to wait.

That said, if you have a working key then I believe @MrSporty on here or Les at Classic Rides North Wales may have the kit to program them. iirc the fob codeis transmitted and the key number is added on the end together with the rolling code. Martyuk once showed me mine using a device he had knocked up to capture the fob signal but I think he's still out of the country.
They just swap the chip from your duff FOB to the pcb from a working FOB. There are people that can clone your FOB and also designate it as key #1; 2# or 3# but you have to send your working FOB to them or in another case against a deposit they will send you a box of tricks that will record your FOB code which you send back for them to make a new FOB.
 
Hi All,
Well, something isn't right, it isn't totally knackered, but the rear doors no longer unlock with the key (clicking noises), and the engine is showing as disabled in the binnacle display and no amount of fob button pressing whilst in the ignition will clear it. I don't seem to be able to unlock via the remote now either. Not yet tried the door EKA input to clear the engine disable. Oh, and the interior headlining lights no longer work, but the door puddle lights and centre console light do, but they stay on all the time even if the doors are locked, so I've disconnected the battery for now.
One thing I forgot that I did while tackling the heater matrix (and later undid) was to plug the alarm back in after realising someone had unplugged it - seemed OK when I did it, but later found the car was making weird clicking noises (from the alarm) so unplugged it again: I wonder if that has affected the BECM (clutching at straws).

A new question (and assuming the BECM is now knackered) - I have a 2001 4.0 HSE donor car with a working BECM (insurance write-off due to vandalism) - will this work in the 2000 4.6l 30th Anniversary if I swap over the BECM and instrument binnacle*? The cars are a similar spec, but I noticed that the 2001 HSE has separate amplifier modules in the doors, whereas the 2000 4.6L 30th model has the large amplifier in the back. Do I (and can I) also swap over the Thor engine ECU (as I think the 2001 4.0l has has a mod to stop EKA/Engine disable happening).
Sorry for so many questions - getting frustrated as I've hardly had a chance to use it since buying it.

*if this works I'll change the dials over later as the 30th model has a green background rather than black.
Swapping stuff over wholesale is likely to cause more trouble than it fixes I fear. e.g. odometer shifting to highest figure it can find in the system etc.
IF you think it might be the BeCM I would remove it and send it to https://callrova.com/ where @Rick-the-Pick on here will fettle it for you and fully test it and return it.
 
Well the k.l.c.k fobs do appear to be made by HUFF and are the same quality even the key has the huff logo, if they can be programed it will be a result but will have to look into it a bit more, but in the mean time I now have a spare fob that works in the lock just cost more to have the blade cut than the fob
 

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Well the k.l.c.k fobs do appear to be made by HUFF and are the same quality even the key has the huff logo, if they can be programed it will be a result but will have to look into it a bit more, but in the mean time I now have a spare fob that works in the lock just cost more to have the blade cut than the fob
Link please for where to buy.
 
Its the ebay link at the top of this page, its local to me so just called in if they wont post to you i could sort it out.
OK thanks, price is OK but they want over £22 for shipping which is ridiculous as there is no customs duty on items under €150.
How much did they charge you for postage?
 
OK thanks, price is OK but they want over £22 for shipping which is ridiculous as there is no customs duty on items under €150.
How much did they charge you for postage?
i called in so only payed £10 each can go back if needed its only a few miles down the road and an area i am always passing.
My Brother in law has a house in France i could get him to post internally next time he is over if you are in no hurry.
 
i called in so only payed £10 each can go back if needed its only a few miles down the road and an area i am always passing.
My Brother in law has a house in France i could get him to post internally next time he is over if you are in no hurry.
It would be great if you could get me one and either post it to me or get your brother in law to bring it over. Where in france does he have a house? How do you want to be paid?
 
It will also be interesting if someone figures out how the program them . . . assuming they really are blanks.
 
Well the k.l.c.k fobs do appear to be made by HUFF and are the same quality even the key has the huff logo, if they can be programed it will be a result but will have to look into it a bit more, but in the mean time I now have a spare fob that works in the lock just cost more to have the blade cut than the fob

You could PM @martyuk and see if he's planning a visit? Pretty sure he can program keys. I suspect MrSporty can too but he'll need a working fob.
 
You could PM @martyuk and see if he's planning a visit? Pretty sure he can program keys. I suspect MrSporty can too but he'll need a working fob.
From the info received when I sent a FOB to be repaired, they just take the chip from your dead FOB and transplant it to the PCB from a working FOB. The cannot program the FOB unless things have changed recently.
 
Thank you again Datatek for the tip on how to separate the key fob - have done this and swapped over the SMD chip from the old to one of the new eBay / k.l.c.k fobs PCB: I now have a rock solid lock/unlock from the remote and it's in a new case - so happy now as this was really playing on my mind.

So for all those who had a doubt on the authenticity of the fobs: they are indeed genuine :)
So, we just need confirmation on who other than Huff can program one up then - assuming there is a working one to work from (fingers crossed).
 

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