I am keeping incremental cooling (VC) at the cost of engine weight/power. I believe it’s better than waiting til it gets hot to cool it :)
 
So how do I get this open to flush and fill with fresh oil? :D

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I’ve had good look at the rads and grille. The way the air goes in biggest thing blocking flow appears to be the air con fans and shrouding for them. They are just there in the way few holes may help flow

I’m not even sure why I’m doing this :confused: I don’t have a cooling problem just a ducky viscous. It’s a sure sign :rolleyes::D

Some can be stripped and the medium changed but the BMW ones cannot as far as i am aware.
 
It's not just centrifugal force the removes the fluid, centrifugal force moves the fluid to the periphery, there is a crude little metal block with a V in the leading edge to evacuate the fluid, the metal block is on the drive plate runs in a groove in the driven plate. There is a lot more air going over the block in a RAM air situation with the viscous and cowl removed.

Not concentrated ram air there isn't. You are better off with a working viscous and a shroud simple as that. But it's your car do as you wish with it.
 
So how do I get this open to flush and fill with fresh oil? :D

View attachment 175793 View attachment 175792


I’ve had good look at the rads and grille. The way the air goes in biggest thing blocking flow appears to be the air con fans and shrouding for them. They are just there in the way few holes may help flow

I’m not even sure why I’m doing this :confused: I don’t have a cooling problem just a ducky viscous. It’s a sure sign :rolleyes::D
An angle grinder will get you into the viscous coupling:eek:
 
He didn't say he wanted to put it back together again:)

Then it wouldn’t need new oil would it?:rolleyes:

I don’t have the equipment to drill it then spot weld back. Doesn’t look like it can be disassembled any further without invasive methods or a ginormous hammer too big to lift :D
 
Then it wouldn’t need new oil would it?:rolleyes:

I don’t have the equipment to drill it then spot weld back. Doesn’t look like it can be disassembled any further without invasive methods or a ginormous hammer too big to lift :D
If the oil has gone, it's because the seals have failed, putting new oil in is a waste of time. Can you spot weld alloy?
I have one disassembled.
 
Then it wouldn’t need new oil would it?:rolleyes:

I don’t have the equipment to drill it then spot weld back. Doesn’t look like it can be disassembled any further without invasive methods or a ginormous hammer too big to lift :D

If it's seized up it is knackered. Got a brand new genuine Land rover one leaning against my computer desk. £343.56 worth according to Rimmers, got it off Ebay for £50.00
 
Well I’ve put the LR (Eaton?) unit back on. Cleaned it up as much as possible, smoothed edges of rough plastic. It’s playing up cutting out when hot again so viscous is on list. £50 is good but £300 means E36 one going back on loud or not :)

Wanted you to see difference, dimensions are mainly same, but not ;)

Thread is same as is diameter -
DB16138A-F093-4D73-9254-B8DB7472E15B.jpeg

Front is different as are blades
B91FE908-E07F-4C4B-80BD-E0700B2102AE.jpeg


It is opposite direction isn’t it? Lol :p:rolleyes::D
 
If it's locked up, it may disintegrate and cause damage that will cost you more then the price of a replacement viscous fan. For about £10 you could ditch the viscous.
 
The E36 VCU (top/right in photo) blades do seem like they’ve had a bending at motorway speed, they seemed more solid when I put it on :eek:
As experiments go having constant cooling did seem to help but Grrrr is right I’m just delaying the inevitable FIP. It was original problem and all work I’ve done has just put it off a bit.
Front UJ’s, exhaust and Static timing is what needs to be next when I get time, budget is running out slowly
 

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