RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I am keeping incremental cooling (VC) at the cost of engine weight/power. I believe it’s better than waiting til it gets hot to cool it 
So how do I get this open to flush and fill with fresh oil?
View attachment 175793 View attachment 175792
I’ve had good look at the rads and grille. The way the air goes in biggest thing blocking flow appears to be the air con fans and shrouding for them. They are just there in the way few holes may help flow
I’m not even sure why I’m doing this
Some can be stripped and the medium changed but the BMW ones cannot as far as i am aware.
Not concentrated ram air there isn't. You are better off with a working viscous and a shroud simple as that. But it's your car do as you wish with it.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
An angle grinder will get you into the viscous couplingSo how do I get this open to flush and fill with fresh oil?
View attachment 175793 View attachment 175792
I’ve had good look at the rads and grille. The way the air goes in biggest thing blocking flow appears to be the air con fans and shrouding for them. They are just there in the way few holes may help flow
I’m not even sure why I’m doing this
An angle grinder will get you into the viscous coupling
There maybe a couple of problems related to using an angle grinder.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
He didn't say he wanted to put it back together againThere maybe a couple of problems related to using an angle grinder.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
He didn't say he wanted to put it back together again
Then it wouldn’t need new oil would it?
I don’t have the equipment to drill it then spot weld back. Doesn’t look like it can be disassembled any further without invasive methods or a ginormous hammer too big to lift
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If the oil has gone, it's because the seals have failed, putting new oil in is a waste of time. Can you spot weld alloy?Then it wouldn’t need new oil would it?
I don’t have the equipment to drill it then spot weld back. Doesn’t look like it can be disassembled any further without invasive methods or a ginormous hammer too big to lift
I have one disassembled.
Then it wouldn’t need new oil would it?
I don’t have the equipment to drill it then spot weld back. Doesn’t look like it can be disassembled any further without invasive methods or a ginormous hammer too big to lift
If it's seized up it is knackered. Got a brand new genuine Land rover one leaning against my computer desk. £343.56 worth according to Rimmers, got it off Ebay for £50.00
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Well I’ve put the LR (Eaton?) unit back on. Cleaned it up as much as possible, smoothed edges of rough plastic. It’s playing up cutting out when hot again so viscous is on list. £50 is good but £300 means E36 one going back on loud or not
Wanted you to see difference, dimensions are mainly same, but not
Thread is same as is diameter -
Front is different as are blades
It is opposite direction isn’t it? Lol
Wanted you to see difference, dimensions are mainly same, but not
Thread is same as is diameter -
Front is different as are blades
It is opposite direction isn’t it? Lol
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
The E36 VCU (top/right in photo) blades do seem like they’ve had a bending at motorway speed, they seemed more solid when I put it on
As experiments go having constant cooling did seem to help but Grrrr is right I’m just delaying the inevitable FIP. It was original problem and all work I’ve done has just put it off a bit.
Front UJ’s, exhaust and Static timing is what needs to be next when I get time, budget is running out slowly
As experiments go having constant cooling did seem to help but Grrrr is right I’m just delaying the inevitable FIP. It was original problem and all work I’ve done has just put it off a bit.
Front UJ’s, exhaust and Static timing is what needs to be next when I get time, budget is running out slowly
