M

Martyn Jones

Member
Hi all , I’m new to the site and have only just renewed my ownership of a Land Rover ! Previously I had a Petrol series 3 Landy (76 ) which it seemed you could run on a shoestring ( not re fuel )
I have now plunged in at the deep end and bought a 2001 p38 4.0 hse as a running project
I appear to have sorted the early issues , clearing warning messages ( worrying ones ! ) by replacing the failing battery and having reset all windows etc I have set about the non opening tail gate ( which had apparently worked for the previous owner )
I’ve managed to remove the panel and access the solenoid and given a little tap it works , but alas not all the time ! I’m assuming that a simple replacement solenoid is the way forward ? Any thoughts/confirmation of my thoughts and perhaps suggestions where to purchase from if it is the case would be greatly appreciated
Also how easy are the rear door cards to access as it appears my drivers side rear window has parted company from its mechanism ? I can hear the motor working but no glass movement !
I’m loving the tinkering at the same time as thinking that I must have lost the plot getting into P38 ownership
 
You haven't lost the plot,your just a masochist. Is the tailgate button ok. Easy to remove and strip They are usually full of rust , cheap to replace. Check the wiring connector to the solinoi.
 
Thanks for your quick response ( not sure what I should call you ? ) much appreciated
The button and the whole tailgate appears to be in great condition to be honest , the solenoid itself just requires a tap and then it’ll work for a few goes sometimes 4 or 5 but then sounds sluggish and will stop
Even with the tailgate all put back together I can bash where the solenoid is and it will work
All connections look good ( I’m a sparky by trade although not auto trained )
 
Im
Martyn Jones said:
Thanks for your quick response ( not sure what I should call you ? ) much appreciated
The button and the whole tailgate appears to be in great condition to be honest , the solenoid itself just requires a tap and then it’ll work for a few goes sometimes 4 or 5 but then sounds sluggish and will stop
Even with the tailgate all put back together I can bash where the solenoid is and it will work
All connections look good ( I’m a sparky by trade although not auto trained )
Click to expand...
I'm trying to think of the setup, its been a while since I had mine stripped. Disconnect the solenoid from the locking mechanism and see if it operates normally then try the locking mechanism for smooth operation. May need a bit of lub. Alan s fine.;):D
 
Thanks Alan , it does seem like the button is fine and the actual operation of the locking mechanism is ok ( what’s the best way to “lube” this up anyway ? ) and do you know if it’s common for the solenoid to fail or play up ? There’s one on eBay fairly local to me for £20 so I might just have a punt ( what’s another £20 )
There’s also something else puzzling me in the cabin , the console where the shifter is and the dash have an almost sticky texture , very easily scratched and easily scraped off , any ideas on that ?
Thanks again
Martyn
 
I replaced my solenoid as it was working sporadically, I opened the case and regreased it, hoping it'd work and it did for a week. I replaced it with a second hand unit from eBay (came with a year warranty, which isn't worth much really), just make sure you get the right version, as there are 2 versions with slightly different connectors and I think bolt patterns. LR no long make or supply the parts new, I phoned my dealership and they told me to try a breakers yard, as they have no way of getting hold of one.

That sticky texture is either the left overs from some aftermarket veneer kit, or just grime from use. I had to clean my steering wheel because I had a lot of sticky stuff where my thumbs rest. It is just dirt and sweat that had accumulated over time.
 
Thanks Gents
Really appreciate all the help , I’ll make sure it’s the correct part and give it a go ( probably a bit too much info re grease and grime though )
 
I think it's a motor as a pose to a solenoid so it sounds like the brushes are sticking or worn.
Not sure if you can replace them or not but I'm sure there will be plenty on the bay of e.
I've not heard many people saying they've failed so if you find one it should be OK.
 
The tailgate butto grounds through the CDL switch on the bottom of the driver's lock actuator. They've been known to act up before. It is the centre of the 3 microswitches IIRC.

Has the original poster downloaded RAVE yet? He'll need that.
 
Wazzajnr said:
I think it's a motor as a pose to a solenoid so it sounds like the brushes are sticking or worn.
Not sure if you can replace them or not but I'm sure there will be plenty on the bay of e.
I've not heard many people saying they've failed so if you find one it should be OK.
Click to expand...
It is just a motor with a helical gear which moves the arm back and forth. IIRC, the motor wasn't soldered in, the contacts were kept in place by pressure from the casing, so the motors are easily replaceable. Although as I think about it, it could be worth making sure the motor is getting enough pressure from the case.
 
Martyn Jones said:
Hi Grrrr
Excuse my ignorance but what is RAVE ?
Martyn ( original poster )
Click to expand...

RAVE is the workshop manual used by Land Rover. It is like a Haynes manual on steroids. With it and some tips off here you can pull the whole car apart and rebuilt it. It is absolutely indispensable - YOU NEED IT.

My link doesn't work anymore. Hopefully someone will come up with a good link. If not I'll get my copy up on Google docs for you.
 
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