crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

hi
im new to this although I have 2 of these p38's
my manual one I have just bought and the lad told me that it has a suspension problem.
the pump can be wired from under the bonnet to run and it will go up to the ride height...when I press the ride height button inside for it to go down it does but when I press for it to go up the height level light flashes but the suspension will not go up and the pump does not run.
I can only get it to run from under the bonnet so I am assuming that it could be a suspension height ecu so I took one from the other p38 which I know works perfectly but still the same.
Thw relay under the bonnet works as I have swopped that as well and I have also changed the delay relay which sends a signal to the ecu and still the same.
so I am presuming that there is no power getting through to the pump and/or no signal from the ecu telling it to run so I am all ears to finding a remedy.
I was told that the suspension was fine up until having a new battery fitted...I have the free software but comes up with a trillion and one faults and then comes up with none.
I live in durham in the noerth east so any participation would be nice and any info...

tomcat59alan · Jan 14, 2015

Is the dash switch faulty? The pump only runs when the pressure drops in the storage tank and may not run right away when you press the switch for wade height. Trillion faults can be bad comms I believe. You can run the pump with the EAS software, I guess you are bridging the relay.

:welcome2: A location would be nice.

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

Look at my EAS "How to" for how to check function of the compressor thermal cut out switch. Highly likely it has failed. Here, RANGE ROVER P38 EAS AIR COMPRESSOR PUMP THERMAL SWITCH LRC0004 | eBay needs a bit of nous to fit.

crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
Is the dash switch faulty? The pump only runs when the pressure drops in the storage tank and may not run right away when you press the switch for wade height. Trillion faults can be bad comms I believe. You can run the pump with the EAS software, I guess you are bridging the relay.:welcome2: A location would be nice.

Im in durham..I would think the switch is all right but can use the one out of the other car..if you press the switch for it to go down then it does..when you press for it to go up the light flashes as it should but nothing....the pump does not run so im guessing it is not getting a signal.
also cant get the pump to work with the software that I have.

crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

if the thermal switch was goosed then would the pump not run at all even if I bridged the relay??

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

crosser69 said:
Im in durham..I would think the switch is all right but can use the one out of the other car..if you press the switch for it to go down then it does..when you press for it to go up the light flashes as it should but nothing....the pump does not run so im guessing it is not getting a signal.
also cant get the pump to work with the software that I have.

If you have EASunlock pump should run regardless of thermal switch. But if you are getting lots of contradictory faults you have bad comms and the system is not connected, so the pump will not run.

crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

wammers said:
Look at my EAS "How to" for how to check function of the compressor thermal cut out switch. Highly likely it has failed. Here, RANGE ROVER P38 EAS AIR COMPRESSOR PUMP THERMAL SWITCH LRC0004 | eBay needs a bit of nous to fit.

would the pump not run at all then because I can get it to work bridging the relay

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

crosser69 said:
if the thermal switch was goosed then would the pump not run at all even if I bridged the relay??

The compressor will run if relay is bridged. But if thermal switch is duff the ECU will not pull the relay to run the compressor.

crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

wammers said:
If you have EASunlock pump should run regardless of thermal switch. But if you are getting lots of contradictory faults you have bad comms and the system is not connected, so the pump will not run.

I tried the software again and it was a bad connection on my laptop, comes up with vehicle moved fault but I still cant get the suspension to go up with the software..so any other ideas?

crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

wammers said:
The compressor will run if relay is bridged. But if thermal switch is duff the ECU will not pull the relay to run the compressor.

ok I understand..is the thermal switch inside the pump itself?
so if thermal switch has gone would that explain why the software would not run it as well?

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

crosser69 said:
ok I understand..is the thermal switch inside the pump itself?
so if thermal switch has gone would that explain why the software would not run it as well?

No the software if it is EASunlock should run the compressor regardless of thermal switch. But you seem not to have good comms with the ECU. As i explained earlier. You need green good comms light at all times. May flicker a little whilst working but MUST be solid green.

crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

wammers said:
No the software if it is EASunlock should run the compressor regardless of thermal switch. But you seem not to have good comms with the ECU. As i explained earlier. You need green good comms light at all times. May flicker a little whilst working but MUST be solid green.

had it back on and had good green idle light..it still wont run the compressor..doesn't particulary come up with any faults just vehicle moved.

mozz smith · Jan 14, 2015

tomcat !!!!!!! he told us all that he's in the north east , duram .in his opening question !!!!!!!
please pay attention or should you have gone to specsavers you thick plastic scouser . ha ha ha .

mozz smith · Jan 14, 2015

wammers said:
No the software if it is EASunlock should run the compressor regardless of thermal switch. But you seem not to have good comms with the ECU. As i explained earlier. You need green good comms light at all times. May flicker a little whilst working but MUST be solid green.

how can it be" solid " green IF it flickers

:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi your getting as bad as the plastic scouser !!!!!! have you both bin drinkin today ???????

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

mozz smith said:
how can it be" solid " green IF it flickers :hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi your getting as bad as the plastic scouser !!!!!! have you both bin drinkin today ???????

The intensity of the SOLID green light changes. So it flickers.

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

crosser69 said:
had it back on and had good green idle light..it still wont run the compressor..doesn't particulary come up with any faults just vehicle moved.

Maybe it doesn't if the thermal is duff i thought it did. Do the checks for thermal fail in the "How to".

crosser69 · Jan 14, 2015

Right going to try a thermal switch..where is it and how easy is it to do?

mozz smith · Jan 14, 2015

wammers said:
The intensity of the SOLID green light changes. So it flickers.

ha so it can't be solid then cos it flickers ?????????

solid and flickers is 2 different states !!!!!!!!:fencing:

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

mozz smith said:
ha so it can't be solid then cos it flickers ?????????

solid and flickers is 2 different states !!!!!!!!:fencing:

Look up intensity.

wammers · Jan 14, 2015

crosser69 said:
Right going to try a thermal switch..where is it and how easy is it to do?

Check it first. It is on a board with the brush holder in the back of the compressor. As i said needs a bit of nous.

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