. although it might not be obvious.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I think it's possible to poke the end of a bit of wire into the back of the connectorThank you all kindly
To check that the orange wire of the compressor is grounded whilst the connectors are together
Do I simple slice that wire and connect to ground
I didn’t see the link ?
Exactly. The rear of the connect is simply a rubber seal. Either pull that out or poke some copper wire through where the orange wire goes through.
Go to about 1m30secs into this video
Made the link easier to find in my post above !!Thank you all kindly
To check that the orange wire of the compressor is grounded whilst the connectors are together
Do I simple slice that wire and connect to ground
I didn’t see the link ?
I can’t thank you guys enough for the continued support .Im starting to think this might be beyond me to fix .
I have clear all fault codes today
I did have slow 35 max speed and please see pic but now they are clear .
I did the turn of software restart engine no luck
I grounded the orange cable ,compressor didn’t start on starting car
I checked the compressor cable with engine running
I get 13 volts between the small purple/ black cable and large black cable
I also took off the end cap with the brushes on the compressor and tested the thermal cut out switch for continuity
Not sure what to check next ?
Thanks
I have clear all fault codes today
I did have slow 35 max speed and please see pic but now they are clear .
I did the turn of software restart engine no luck
I grounded the orange cable ,compressor didn’t start on starting car
I checked the compressor cable with engine running
I get 13 volts between the small purple/ black cable and large black cable
I also took off the end cap with the brushes on the compressor and tested the thermal cut out switch for continuity
Not sure what to check next ?
Thanks
Attachments
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Have you actually tested the motor because it sounds like the motor is toast.
When unplugged, the loom side of the connector, will usually only show voltage on the thermal sense wire. This is because with the connector unplugged, the ECU thinks the thermal switch has tripped, therefore the relay will be off.
If you're trigger the relay using RSW software, then the PLG wire will go to 12V, but this does not tell you if the ECU is sensing the thermal switch correctly.
I suggest to check the thermal signal is grounded at the ECU input on Pin-16. The diagrams show this wire is direct from the EAS box to the ECU, so I dodn't think there's any connectors in the middle ?
If you're trigger the relay using RSW software, then the PLG wire will go to 12V, but this does not tell you if the ECU is sensing the thermal switch correctly.
I suggest to check the thermal signal is grounded at the ECU input on Pin-16. The diagrams show this wire is direct from the EAS box to the ECU, so I dodn't think there's any connectors in the middle ?
Now you can replace the thermal switch on the old one. If successful put it under the seat as a spare.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Assuming the thermal switch was the problem, from the information provided, it sounded like he motor has failed.
Well that didn’t turn out too good 
After fitting the new thermal switch and having a nightmare of getting the brushes to stay in ,I must of shorted it somehow ,because when i refitted the compressor. The small 40amp fuse in the engine bay kept blowing ,which prevented the car from starting which was gave me mini melt down
I very close to putting spring on her and giving up !
I have been reading on this forum of some people using a T piece with a Schrader valve in case of an emergency to pump up the air bags
Is this something you guys do ?
After fitting the new thermal switch and having a nightmare of getting the brushes to stay in ,I must of shorted it somehow ,because when i refitted the compressor. The small 40amp fuse in the engine bay kept blowing ,which prevented the car from starting which was gave me mini melt down
I very close to putting spring on her and giving up !
I have been reading on this forum of some people using a T piece with a Schrader valve in case of an emergency to pump up the air bags
Is this something you guys do ?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Not me, just another potential leak in the system. I do carry a 12 volt tyre inflator and a set of 4 valves so I can inflate the bags in an emergency. Never had to use them though.Well that didn’t turn out too good
After fitting the new thermal switch and having a nightmare of getting the brushes to stay in ,I must of shorted it somehow ,because when i refitted the compressor. The small 40amp fuse in the engine bay kept blowing ,which prevented the car from starting which was gave me mini melt down
I very close to putting spring on her and giving up !
I have been reading on this forum of some people using a T piece with a Schrader valve in case of an emergency to pump up the air bags
Is this something you guys do ?
+1^
When I was doing my engine install after the rebuild, I found it easier to use a tee on each pair of lines & use a single Schrader valve for front and another for rear. That way both sides inflated together with equal pressure. Never checked how level it was because wasn’t driving it at the time !!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Brave man owning up to that little error.
Definitely. Once you have them the car realises the game's up and you'll never need them!
True had mine a few years now and not needed them YET
