Courageous
New Member
Hi chaps - as the tiltle suggests me mate's p38 battery dies after a cuppla days non use because his suspension pump runs even though the ignition is switched off? Is this normal that the motor should run in this way? 
david451
New Member
Hi chaps - as the tiltle suggests me mate's p38 battery dies after a cuppla days non use because his suspension pump runs even though the ignition is switched off? Is this normal that the motor should run in this way?
I'm sure there's a thread on this recently where the guy had his into the dealer repeatedly because of a fault like this.
If the pump continues to run with ignition off then in a situation with a serious leak the pump would burn out. I have seen a number of air suspension landies with the suspension down, so my answer would be no it should not, or they would not be down.
I'm guessing that you have two faults here, an air leak, and it's common so check the threads, and possibly a relay fault keeping the system live.
Courageous
New Member
Ah yes - if the feed runs through a relay then of course welded contacts of this relays would indeed facilitate this condition...... Hmmm - you've given me some thought to work on. I don't have a manual for this so would you happen to know which relay or where it is that controls this? Thanx
canucki
Active Member
Hi. Your pump should stop running when your ignition is switched off. Though it is normal for the EAS to release air to level the vehicle when parked. This makes a series of clicking sounds from the front of R R. Usually when you shut the door/s. Are you not mistaking this noise instead? If it is definately running after the ignition is cut then you have probs. Wouldn't know what to suggest cept get it checked on a lap top from a local mechanic who might hook it up fer a small fee. Usually money well spent to pinpoint the cause instead of hours of fault finding. Main dealers charge well so if you know a local garage like I found they normally do it in there lunch for a drink. Mine does anyway.
Also might be worth checking if the RF receiver is doing the draining as well.
Also might be worth checking if the RF receiver is doing the draining as well.
canucki
Active Member
LAND ROVER MANUALS DOWNLOAD
And here is the manual.
And here is the manual.
david451
New Member
you're a fookin star so you are.
rick071155
New Member
hello mate if the pump is running when the ignition is turned off im sure it will be a faulty relay in the fuse box , i had exactly the same fault last summer the only way to stop the pump was either remove the relay or unplug the pump .
you will find the relay in the fuse box under the bonnet , quickest way to check it is just swap it for another that is not being used i.e air con.
rick.
you will find the relay in the fuse box under the bonnet , quickest way to check it is just swap it for another that is not being used i.e air con.
rick.
Courageous
New Member
Thats brilliant guys - thanx for that. Will give it a go later today and update you.
richieb
Active Member
hi there, I have the same problem I have pulled out the relay because the pump runs as soon as the battery is connected and there is a leak in a bag so it does not stop until the battery is flat! did you manage to sort it out by putting in a different relay?
I also have a buzzing main ignition relay which keeps on buzzing on and off but if I take it out she won't run at all, I tried swapping the 2 relays but the same happens, could they both be duds??? how do I test a relay??
hope you got it sorted so I can have some hope of saving my poor old girl
cheers
Richie
I also have a buzzing main ignition relay which keeps on buzzing on and off but if I take it out she won't run at all, I tried swapping the 2 relays but the same happens, could they both be duds??? how do I test a relay??
hope you got it sorted so I can have some hope of saving my poor old girl
cheers
Richie
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
Good luck - the OP hasn't logged on for over 2.5 years.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The EAS pump should not run with the ignition off. Both problems point to a duff fuse box, a common failure item on the P38. Check for heat blued contacts on the relays/fuses and signs or smells of burning. Also worth checking the connectors under the fuse box for bad connections and signs of heating, also bad supply and earth connections to the fuse box
richieb
Active Member
thanks, surely a bad connection would mean that the pump would run less than more though? is there any member on here that really knows about rangerovers in my area(chichester) that would be willing to come over and help me as i'm disabled and it's a bit too fiddly for me! and trouble is I dont trust any garages as they just buy bits, fit them and try it and even if it does not work they still charge a fortune!
will any relay work or does it have to be purchased from landrover ?
I can't see any melted bits or smell burned as I have heard about these fuse boxes giving problems, is there an upgraded box and relays you can get??
thanks guys hopefully it's not going to be too hard to sort it out as she's a lovely car (or hopefully will be)
hopefully the original poster didn't post again because he sorted it and it has been fine ever since!!?? fingers crossed!
thanks guys
www.youtube.com/amazingfeet
will any relay work or does it have to be purchased from landrover ?
I can't see any melted bits or smell burned as I have heard about these fuse boxes giving problems, is there an upgraded box and relays you can get??
thanks guys hopefully it's not going to be too hard to sort it out as she's a lovely car (or hopefully will be)
hopefully the original poster didn't post again because he sorted it and it has been fine ever since!!?? fingers crossed!
thanks guys
www.youtube.com/amazingfeet
Datatek
Well-Known Member
thanks, surely a bad connection would mean that the pump would run less than more though? is there any member on here that really knows about rangerovers in my area(chichester) that would be willing to come over and help me as i'm disabled and it's a bit too fiddly for me! and trouble is I dont trust any garages as they just buy bits, fit them and try it and even if it does not work they still charge a fortune!
will any relay work or does it have to be purchased from landrover ?
I can't see any melted bits or smell burned as I have heard about these fuse boxes giving problems, is there an upgraded box and relays you can get??
thanks guys hopefully it's not going to be too hard to sort it out as she's a lovely car (or hopefully will be)
hopefully the original poster didn't post again because he sorted it and it has been fine ever since!!?? fingers crossed!
thanks guys
www.youtube.com/amazingfeet
A bad connection may stop the pump running but an overheated fuse box may have shorted circuits and relay contacts can stick together.
You can swap the compressor relay for any other relay of the same colour I think for the purpose of testing the relay.
richieb
Active Member
my mate took fuse box apart and lots of damp and greeny bits inside, all cleaned up, blown out and put back and ......... pump only runs with ignition and when doors shut!!
and no buzzing from engine relay,,
but it still won't power up the ignition with the relay in place so we have to bridge accross the ignition relay to get the ignition to run, and the starter motor won't run off the key so we have to use the push button to start it (from battery to starter motor solenoid)
does the immobiliser just cut out the fuel pump or everything? if so I'd think that this is an immobiliser issue, is there a way that I can immobilise the immobiliser? and how does the immobiliser work?? is it a chip in the key ? I don't have a key code so can I get that from somewhere to get one made? the key looks to be the original one and unlocks the door, I don't dare to try the buttons on it though!
anyone know about the immobs??
and no buzzing from engine relay,,
but it still won't power up the ignition with the relay in place so we have to bridge accross the ignition relay to get the ignition to run, and the starter motor won't run off the key so we have to use the push button to start it (from battery to starter motor solenoid)
does the immobiliser just cut out the fuel pump or everything? if so I'd think that this is an immobiliser issue, is there a way that I can immobilise the immobiliser? and how does the immobiliser work?? is it a chip in the key ? I don't have a key code so can I get that from somewhere to get one made? the key looks to be the original one and unlocks the door, I don't dare to try the buttons on it though!
anyone know about the immobs??
The Immobiliser on these vehicles is a real SoB....
The BeCM unit has it's grubby fingers in allsorts of nooks and crannys of this car, and one little hiccup, will immobilise it....
Now I am not saying it can't happen...but it is reported that without the matching key and BeCM synced to the Engine ECU...it is nigh on impossible to start it...(although I am sure it can be done somehow)
Even at times if you have the right key it will point blank refuse to start until you re-sync the BeCM to the Engine ECU with a reset tool.
The BeCM unit has it's grubby fingers in allsorts of nooks and crannys of this car, and one little hiccup, will immobilise it....
Now I am not saying it can't happen...but it is reported that without the matching key and BeCM synced to the Engine ECU...it is nigh on impossible to start it...(although I am sure it can be done somehow)
Even at times if you have the right key it will point blank refuse to start until you re-sync the BeCM to the Engine ECU with a reset tool.
richieb
Active Member
that's the strange thing because with a wire bridging across the ignition relay and a direct feed to the starter she runs no problem,, surely it can't be this easy to fool the immobiliser which makes me think perhaps the code is ok and key is turning it off, so I still need to find out what's going on!????
