Datatek said:
More power with the MAP disconnected? Most seem to suffer with a loss of power when the MAP is disconnected or not working as the EDC runs on default to protect the engine:confused:
Click to expand...

No you read it wrong or i wrote it wrong. I meant notable difference in a negative manner with it disconnected. Power will be less pickup will be slower.
 
shaunm41 said:
Very informative post thanks for that. I will check and change both the map and maf sensors and see what happens.

Anyone know where to find these tho? Really struggled to find map. Landrover took 45 mins to find it and they call it a turbo boost pressure sensor. £75+vat
Click to expand...
The MAP sensor is mounted on the top/side of the fuel filter....and yes it measures the Turbo Pressure within the intake manifold

Try Island 4x4 usually the best prices (no affliation) EDIT: can't find them listed on Island....hmmm
 
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It's starting to do my head in now. I don't really wanna spend too much money on getting it right. Might end up selling it on at this rate. I only paid 3k for it as its a cat c
 
wammers said:
No you read it wrong or i wrote it wrong. I meant notable difference in a negative manner with it disconnected. Power will be less pickup will be slower.
Click to expand...

With it disconnected it felt no different to when it was connected.

Guessing its faulty??
 
Put your location in your profile, there may be someone local with the gear to read Live Data for you!!

If you disconnected the MAP sensor and no difference that tells me something....there is something wrong with the MAP or the little pipe that goes to it!

A Duff MAP wont hamper starting, whereas a duff MAF may just do so.

More common starting issues are due to duff glow plugs, mis-timed FIP, Crank Position Sensor, and(I am not sure on this one) the No. 4 Injector Start of Injection Sensor!
 
shaunm41 said:
Checked the pipe and replaced it. Blew down it and its all clear
Click to expand...

Then either the MAP sensor is blocked (possible) or duff or the electrical connections to it are dirty. Put little paraffin or such in it and carefully and gently with something none metallic, like a squared off tooth pick or cherry stick, work it around a little then blow out with an airline. Don't put direct pressure into it, do it from a few inches away. Repeat a couple of times. See what you get.
 
Tried running it with map disconnected - no difference

Tried running it with maf disconnected - seemed slightly worse

Starting issues still no better after changing all glow plugs and fuel leak off pipes...
 
MAP - No Difference - Do as Wammers suggests above...there should be a big noticable difference with the MAP disconnected.

MAF - Sounds fine if it runs a bit rougher with it disconnected

Starting Issues - Weak Lift Pump, have you tried the Measurement test?? - Either take off the Filter bowl or remove the fuel deliver line to it....using a measureing jug, stopwatch and a length of decent thickness wire, pull the pump relay place the measureing jug to collect fuel....bridge the fuel pump relay for ecxactly 10 seconds and measure the amount of fuel collected - book value is 180ml in 10 seconds....

If that checks out, crack open the banjo and crank over, should be a steady flow of fuel and no air....

If that is fine, time to look at dodgy Crank Position Senor wiring, or mountings (they have been known to break), FIP timing (Use Live Data) or compression (although you say it starts with Easy Start)
 
NikTheGeek said:
Ah, someone else :) I can run mine with the map disconnected and it makes no difference to performance. Mine is a 2002.

Nik
Click to expand...

You have Nanocom check boost pressure on live data. It should rise with RPM. If it doesn't. Grip turbo hose, squeeze it at idle and get someone to rev engine, it should plump up with rise in RPM. If it does MAP duff. If it doesn't check waste gate.
 
I could do with this live data thing myself. I'm sure it would be very beneficial to have. What is required and where can I get it?
 
shaunm41 said:
Cheers for that. They don't look to bad. What else should be changed other than the chains? Tensioners?
Click to expand...

If you are doing that chains, sprockets, tensioner rails and upper and lower guides. Tensioner itself rarely fails. Set static to 0.95 mm +- 0.02 mm.
 
Saint.V8 said:
MAP - No Difference - Do as Wammers suggests above...there should be a big noticable difference with the MAP disconnected.

MAF - Sounds fine if it runs a bit rougher with it disconnected

Starting Issues - Weak Lift Pump, have you tried the Measurement test?? - Either take off the Filter bowl or remove the fuel deliver line to it....using a measureing jug, stopwatch and a length of decent thickness wire, pull the pump relay place the measureing jug to collect fuel....bridge the fuel pump relay for ecxactly 10 seconds and measure the amount of fuel collected - book value is 180ml in 10 seconds....

If that checks out, crack open the banjo and crank over, should be a steady flow of fuel and no air....

If that is fine, time to look at dodgy Crank Position Senor wiring, or mountings (they have been known to break), FIP timing (Use Live Data) or compression (although you say it starts with Easy Start)
Click to expand...

Bridge the fuel pump relay?

could someone clarify how I do this plz?
 
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