Datatek
Well-Known Member
I would never go near a P38 with a steam cleaner, a recipe for disaster. Part all connectors in the engine bay check for condensation in the fuse box etc or tell the garage to do it.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Oh absolutely
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Depends if anything has been damaged, fuse box for instance, they like to burn and cause all manner of problems.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Different year, it will not be the same.
Had a look at fuses in engine bay, that all looks fine, he's only steam cleaned the area around the FIP. Hard to get to any of the connectors to take them off.. Managed to get the one off from the needle lift sensor off and it all looked ok.
But no matter what I try do I can't get a reading on the actual set point degrees.. It just reads 0.00
But no matter what I try do I can't get a reading on the actual set point degrees.. It just reads 0.00
It seems intermittent now, no matter what I did I could not get any thing other than 0.00 on the injection actual degrees. Then I just went out again and started it up and got these readings
This one when revved
But I still couldn't clear the faults and get the lamp to go out
Then switched engine off and started it again and got these readings
But it starts and runs absolutely perfectly. Could it be a bit of moisture messing up the signals?
This one when revved
But I still couldn't clear the faults and get the lamp to go out
Then switched engine off and started it again and got these readings
But it starts and runs absolutely perfectly. Could it be a bit of moisture messing up the signals?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Moisture would be my guess, look at the connection to the crank sensor and all the earth points under the bonnet.It seems intermittent now, no matter what I did I could not get any thing other than 0.00 on the injection actual degrees. Then I just went out again and started it up and got these readings
This one when revved
But I still couldn't clear the faults and get the lamp to go out
Then switched engine off and started it again and got these readings
But it starts and runs absolutely perfectly. Could it be a bit of moisture messing up the signals?
Well I didn't get chance to look at anything as I had to drive to Sheffield for a meat loaf concert lastnight
I decided to take the range rover and give it a good run.. And the problem seems to have suddenly corrected itself.. The light was always on, then lastnight on the way back to the hotel it started flashing on and off intermittently then stayed off.. Re started the engine and after the usual checks it went off and stayed off
Moisture must have been the cause, and a good run must have cleared it.
I decided to take the range rover and give it a good run.. And the problem seems to have suddenly corrected itself.. The light was always on, then lastnight on the way back to the hotel it started flashing on and off intermittently then stayed off.. Re started the engine and after the usual checks it went off and stayed off
Moisture must have been the cause, and a good run must have cleared it.
Maybe it should be pointed out to the mechanic that there is a rad drain plug. Just pulling hoses is a bad idea.
Back to this old issue... Hot starting remains perfect on the first turn, but cold starting first think in morning is shocking.. Cranking for ages, trying to fire but not quite getting there, clouds of black smoke.. Can take 1 - 2 mins cranking to get going.. I'm thinking glow plugs? I did use **** part ones so.........
Thanks
Shaun
Thanks
Shaun
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Bosch, Delphi, Beru, only good quality plugs work and make sure they are specified for the M51 engine.
