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shaunm41

New Member
Just bought a 2000 (x) range rover dhse with 76000 miles. Got it pretty cheap so can't complain but need advice in starting problems

When cold or hot it's the same. Cranks a good 10 seconds before starting but sometimes when hot it won't start at all. Not even a slight fire. Just endless cranking till battery dies. Will start with a squirt of easy start but I believe this is not a good fix. It's got a full tank of diesel and still the same

It's also had a one way flow valve in the fuel line after the filter

Any ideas?

Thanks

Shaun
 
I will try changing the glow plugs tomorrow but its poor when cold also so I'm assuming not a hot start issue. It takes same time to fire either hot or cold unless it decides not to fire at all but this only seems to be when hot. If I leave it to just say nip in shop then start it it cranks a while then starts. The endless cranking seems to be when it's left for a bit to cool. Say half hour or so.
 
shaunm41 said:
I will try changing the glow plugs tomorrow but its poor when cold also so I'm assuming not a hot start issue. It takes same time to fire either hot or cold unless it decides not to fire at all but this only seems to be when hot. If I leave it to just say nip in shop then start it it cranks a while then starts. The endless cranking seems to be when it's left for a bit to cool. Say half hour or so.
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On a 2000 model you should have lift pump on cranking. That was supposed to fix the hot start problem. But the ECU temp sensor can cause cold start problems if it is duff, as it defaults to 50 degrees. So full cold start fuel is not set and glow plugs don't stay on long enough. But if the glows are duff that is beside the point anyway. Another cause of hot starting problems is chain stretch which retards the injection pump static timing. This means the distribution plunger is off cam at TDC.
 
wammers said:
On a 2000 model you should have lift pump on cranking. That was supposed to fix the hot start problem. But the ECU temp sensor can cause cold start problems if it is duff, as it defaults to 50 degrees. So full cold start fuel is not set and glow plugs don't stay on long enough. But if the glows are duff that is beside the point anyway. Another cause of hot starting problems is chain stretch which retards the injection pump static timing. This means the distribution plunger is off cam at TDC.
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Thanks for your reply. How could I check the fuel lift pump? I will change the glows anyway to rule them out
 
shaunm41 said:
Thanks for your reply. How could I check the fuel lift pump? I will change the glows anyway to rule them out
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The way I check the lift pump is to drop the filter, put a container under and turn on the ignition, pump should run while the glowplug light is on.
The correct way is to jump the relay for 10 seconds when you should get 180ml of fuel.
Check the leak off pipes at the injectors, if they are perished it can let air into the system.
 
Anyone know what this is?
 

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shaunm41 said:
Anyone know what this is?
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Looks like a tracker to me from it's location. Unlikely to be a power box judging by it's location.

Changed my mind, if the cable goes into the EDC box it will be a power box. I would disconnect it, it could be the source of your problems.
 
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It connects here so how do I remove it?

Also it's got the hot start fix fitted. Little black box. Should I disconnect that too? Could that be a source of fault.? Been out today and had to start it again 4 times. 2 of Which just cranked no fire. Easystart saved the day
 

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Removed it now.. Starting don't seem any different but its a lot slower now at lower revs.. Seems like theres no turbo boost at all below 2000 rpm so setting off is slow and on a hil its almost impossible.. It was like that before though..

No end of problems coming out here by the sounds of it
 
I say this a lot but it sorted my hot and cold start problem, make sure yoou have a very strong battery, P38's dont like a weak battery, my battery is off a John Deere tractor.
 
Cossie David said:
I say this a lot but it sorted my hot and cold start problem, make sure yoou have a very strong battery, P38's dont like a weak battery, my battery is off a John Deere tractor.
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I read that somewhere else too.. Its got a 97ah battery in and its been tested by the AA with one of their computer things and said it was fine.. someone said a 110ah battery would be better?

Where can I get one and how much?
 
shaunm41 said:
I read that somewhere else too.. Its got a 97ah battery in and its been tested by the AA with one of their computer things and said it was fine.. someone said a 110ah battery would be better?

Where can I get one and how much?
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AA know little about batteries and their toys don't help.

Datatek will be along to tell you about the best one. 110AH is the minimum but there are some other figures to consider to do with cold cranking.

G~
 
gencybay said:
AA know little about batteries and their toys don't help.

Datatek will be along to tell you about the best one. 110AH is the minimum but there are some other figures to consider to do with cold cranking.

G~
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Thanks mate.. I know very little about batteries and their figures..

I will await someone with more knowledge comng along to comment on the one to buy
 
shaunm41 said:
I read that somewhere else too.. Its got a 97ah battery in and its been tested by the AA with one of their computer things and said it was fine.. someone said a 110ah battery would be better?

Where can I get one and how much?
Click to expand...
Battery Megastore on line, Alphaline 135AH 1000 CCA about £98 delivered it's the biggest that will fit:D
 
Thanks mate will order one now.

I'm going to check the leak off pipes today when I change the glow plugs.

Is that just standard rubber fuel pipe? If so might just replace anyway as its not too expensive

Thanks

Shaun
 
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