Hi
I thank you all again, if new ABS sensors can be duff how do you test them before you fit them? Can we clarify where the traction ECU is, its a 2001 model and i thought it was behind the glove box and made by Wabco, I dont know why the SRS was mentioned as I know it doesnt affect the issues I have, is it just the black relay for the ABS or are other relays involved, I still think its in the wiring but willing to check things people suggest, is there anyone in Derby Derbyshire with a Nancom that wants to plug it in for a Drink, Is there also a Auto electrician in same area that would like to have a go, this bit is random I know but can anyone tell me on the EAS valve block what colours on the pipes relate to what corner, serviced the valve block and compressor now every morning the drivers front corner is on the bump stop!! and it sometimes seems to take a while to figure out what to do, meaning the air tank is full you press the button up or down depending where it is and some days it leaps there, then other time it just waits forever the leaps into action, Im suspecting the driver? I know I havent done owt stupid like snag an O ring
Cheers
Maxderby
Sounds like you either have a pipe in the wrong hole or a solenoid coil on in the wrong place for the EAS.
 
okay im going crazy now ive got rave but cant find brakes section or electronics section!! I know I know im stupid but where are they
 
Main menu. Pick your year.

1734107793383.png


Then look for ABS section.

1734107854177.png
 
Sounds like you either have a pipe in the wrong hole or a solenoid coil on in the wrong place for the EAS.
Hi
the pipes only reach the holes they should go in and did the solenoids one by one, it all seemed to work okayish until I did the right thing and refurbished it LOL it used to go down slowly but now its overnight
 
Hi
the pipes only reach the holes they should go in and did the solenoids one by one, it all seemed to work okayish until I did the right thing and refurbished it LOL it used to go down slowly but now its overnight
Move your EAS questions to another thread.

Airlines are colour coded:
1734108069546.png



Connector pins & wire colours.

Valve Block Connector.JPG
 
Chapter D1. Page number varies with RAVE version, but ABS starts on P108 in my copy.

And in the "RAVE One File PDF", the ABS starts on page 1457, but it's still section D1 in every version !!
 
Sorry now ive lost the very useful info on the EAS valve block!! coloured ports etc, did anyone post what chapter and page numbers the abs system and wiring diagrams were on
, on the rave CD im computer inept so easy instructions please, think i need a lie down !! thank you all
Maxderby
 
Hi All
my 2001 Diesel 2.5 P38 has the Abs and Traction control lights permanently on, firstly a scan showed nearside front abs sensor fault so replaced both front sensors , this worked very briefly about 2 days then abs and traction light back on, another scan then said 2 valves open in master cylinder, contacted chap I bought it off and he said use nanocom to force them to move, unfortunately I dont have one, I tried bleeding the whole brake system as described in the manual, but no results

Chap I got it off sent me a new master cylinder which is now on and still the same faults, I did notice the big block connector that goes to this unit had the spiraband sheathing peeled back about 7inch, so suspect in past someone has been looking for a fault, after fitting new unit had it scanned again and the info is in the picture although poor, if you can expand it you can read it but will put what it says

101 No traction Valve - (open circuit )
103 Outlet Isolation Valve - (open circuit )
20 Outlet Isolation Valve - (open circuit )

Im assuming an electrical fault, ive switched out the Black relay for another with no results, is there any other relays to check
, if so how do i check them, otherwise can anyone tell me what wires to bell out, Im no sparky but have some knowledge, I cant see any obvious dodgy wiring or connector but very suspect of protective sheathing being peeled back, any help wiring diagrams or instructions welcome and appreciated
cheers
Maxderby

If it was off a dealer then it is his problem.

The ABS computer on later models is known to fail. Replacements are like rocking horse droppings and very expensive.

All models have the ABS ECU up behind the glovebox.

I don't like the sound of insulation peeled back. You cannot get a voltage off the sensors; you need an oscilliscope to see the wave pattern generated. The bushes holding tge sensors can be damaged and tgen the sensors move too far away from the reluctor ring to get a reading.

The brake modulator on the bulkhead is pretty bulletproof, especially the later ones. A second-hand one left open to the elements could get moisture in and fail though. If replacing it, getting all the air out can be a total PITA. Something like an Ezibleed kit can allow you to push through a few litres of fluid before doing the full bleed as per RAVE.

There is a pressure switch which is also known to fail. Hard to find but it was used on Saab and some American cars too.
 
WABCO-D units are indeed getting hard to find and are rather expensive. I nabbed one I saw because they are becoming rare.
I seem to recall that @martyuk was repairing units that had developed a specific common fault.
The problem is that no one wants to "lend" a good working unit out for fault-finding purposes in case it comes back broken (which is all too possible if there is a short or crossed-wire in a loom). :(
Does the ETG have a test procedure for the Unit?
 
If it was off a dealer then it is his problem.

The ABS computer on later models is known to fail. Replacements are like rocking horse droppings and very expensive.

All models have the ABS ECU up behind the glovebox.

I don't like the sound of insulation peeled back. You cannot get a voltage off the sensors; you need an oscilliscope to see the wave pattern generated. The bushes holding tge sensors can be damaged and tgen the sensors move too far away from the reluctor ring to get a reading.

The brake modulator on the bulkhead is pretty bulletproof, especially the later ones. A second-hand one left open to the elements could get moisture in and fail though. If replacing it, getting all the air out can be a total PITA. Something like an Ezibleed kit can allow you to push through a few litres of fluid before doing the full bleed as per RAVE.

There is a pressure switch which is also known to fail. Hard to find but it was used on Saab and some American cars too.
Hi many thanks
tried a known good abs ecu but no difference, what are tge and tgen sensors, ive never heard of those
cheers
maxderby
 
Chapter D1. Page number varies with RAVE version, but ABS starts on P108 in my copy.

And in the "RAVE One File PDF", the ABS starts on page 1457, but it's still section D1 in every version !!
hi
my copy of rave seems to only go up to 1361 and 107 takes me to the engine section? either my copy is rubbish or im doing something wrong which is completely possible
 
OK step by step. You can generally ignore the page numbers.

In main menu click the plus sign for the Electrical Manuals.
1734278549852.png


Then select the year of your car.
1734278578219.png


Next click the plus sign for the "Circuit" section.
1734278607474.png


Now select the "D1 - Anti-Lock Braking System" section.
1734278722417.png


Now the right panel will show the ABS description. Click on the right side, and scroll down . . . .

1734278750399.png
 
Not wishing to derail this train at all but....
We did have another ABS/Traction fault some while ago that eventually turned out to be a very wet diagnostic socket that was shorting out across pins and giving very odd results. I spotted it when looking at the ETG and wiring diags that several "lines" ended up at the socket. The user on here cleaned it all up and the fault disappeared like magic.
...Just saying like. ;)
 

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