He is when people send them. Many people seem to forget.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
I try to - but I've only had probably one latch sent to me in the last 6 months - and even then I haven't had the time/inclination to refurbish it yet as I've been busy with other things.
I've got one owner sending me their old latch to add to the collection, and another owner giving me 3 faulty ones this coming weekend - so hopefully towards the end of this month when I'm back from work again, I can start looking at servicing them and maybe have a few available. Need to clear the bench of about 7 HEVAC controllers I have in bits that I'm refurbishing and need to test first... got half way through that before I had to leave for work this time!
I've got one owner sending me their old latch to add to the collection, and another owner giving me 3 faulty ones this coming weekend - so hopefully towards the end of this month when I'm back from work again, I can start looking at servicing them and maybe have a few available. Need to clear the bench of about 7 HEVAC controllers I have in bits that I'm refurbishing and need to test first... got half way through that before I had to leave for work this time!
Rick-the-Pick
Active Member
This repair & remanufacturing isn't all it's cracked up to be.
Rick-the-Pick
Active Member
I'm going to shout this out again. " NEVER-EVER-DISCONNECT-YOUR-BATTERY-WHEN-THE VEHICLE-IS-LOCKED" Unlock the vehicle first & then disconnect else the vehicle will go straight to KEY-CODE-LOCKOUT.
mozz smith
Well-Known Member
Rick they never listen , its the first thing they do !!!!! they think its a "magic" remedy , but hey ho carry on , hope you all well rick ,kind regards Mozz p.s. this post is from 2013 ????? .
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I would add, LEAVE THE BLUDY DOOR OPEN until the battery is off as they have a habit of re-locking.
CoopersP38
New Member
Hi guys well I know this is an old thread but still seems to be the best source of info
So I have a 2000 p38 it has been parked up for a while and the battery went flat so I charged it up it asked for the key code had a struggle to get it to accept all the lights flashed as they should (I think) but it went in after many attempts although I didn’t get a key code lock out on the unsuccessful attempts , so the battery died over a couple of days so iv fitted a new one while keeping a good 12v feed now it’s asking for the code again but no matter what I try I doesn’t seem to want to accept it
When ever I lock or unlock it using the key I get the indicators flashing they seem to give two flashes per key turn, no matter how many time I put the code in it doesn’t re mobilise or give me the key code lock out but best I can tell it’s registering the key turns
Sorry for the lengthy post but tried to get as much info in as I could any help or tips more than welcomed
So I have a 2000 p38 it has been parked up for a while and the battery went flat so I charged it up it asked for the key code had a struggle to get it to accept all the lights flashed as they should (I think) but it went in after many attempts although I didn’t get a key code lock out on the unsuccessful attempts , so the battery died over a couple of days so iv fitted a new one while keeping a good 12v feed now it’s asking for the code again but no matter what I try I doesn’t seem to want to accept it
When ever I lock or unlock it using the key I get the indicators flashing they seem to give two flashes per key turn, no matter how many time I put the code in it doesn’t re mobilise or give me the key code lock out but best I can tell it’s registering the key turns
Sorry for the lengthy post but tried to get as much info in as I could any help or tips more than welcomed
Battery going flat is usually the RF filter. You can try disconnecting its aerial. Best permanent fix is to buy one of the RF filter gizmo's from @martyuk on here.
If your sidelight repeaters are flashing on key action (lock/unlock) then your doorlock contacts probably are OK.
Are you doing the keycode entry correctly?
Here is an abridged version.:
Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.
Cheers!
CoopersP38
New Member
Thanks have tried that and even trying it in reverse have resorted to doing the unthinkable and disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting with the key in position 2 now just have to wait for the lock out to go and I’ll give it another try, cheers for the heads up on the ref filter will look into that
Please contact me I have a faulty latch you can have
You need to put @martyuk for him to see this. Oops... did it for you ;-)
many thanks still learning
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
martyuk
Well-Known Member
You will need to wait (as I gather you have been doing) for KEY CODE LOCKOUT to disappear from the dash BEFORE trying to enter the EKA code. If you do it whilst in KCL, then it will ignore it and you won't get anywhere.
If it still won't work, then unfortunately it's probably gone into a complete lockdown and will need to be removed and sent away to someone like myself or Rick who have the tools to communicate to the BECM CPU directly, bypassing the normal security features, and be able to reset the lockouts for you. If you get to that point, then feel free to drop me a message and I'm happy to quote it for you.
Cheers,
Marty
Wheelsup74
New Member
Sorry to jump on old thread.
Anyone around Huntingdon with a nanocom?
Total lockout.
Awaiting EKA.
Need to get car home.
Totally flattened battery, and like a T*T I took it of to charge. Locked car whilst battery was charging.
Put battery back on an F** me it locked me out..
Any help please.
Will try all the tips in this post today, but think it needs a bit more than that..
Anyone around Huntingdon with a nanocom?
Total lockout.
Awaiting EKA.
Need to get car home.
Totally flattened battery, and like a T*T I took it of to charge. Locked car whilst battery was charging.
Put battery back on an F** me it locked me out..
Any help please.
Will try all the tips in this post today, but think it needs a bit more than that..
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
it Will open with the key. What messages come up on dash when you try to start it?
Wheelsup74
New Member
I have put EKA code in.
Still comes up engine disabled then goes to key lockout again.
Still comes up engine disabled then goes to key lockout again.
Wheelsup74
New Member
Just spoken to a guy in Wales who does these. He said key could be kerput.
Send becm ecu and key and he can reprogram.
Please can you drop me a quote to do same.. Thanks. Wayne
Send becm ecu and key and he can reprogram.
Please can you drop me a quote to do same.. Thanks. Wayne
