Yes, he's normally right. I like to see things with my own eyes where there is disagreement though and I am for an equality so everyone gets treated the same.
Yes, he's normally right. I like to see things with my own eyes where there is disagreement though and I am for an equality so everyone gets treated the same.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
They equally have the right to prove their opinion. What’s stopping them?
My view is not an opinion it is a fact. Now you lot believe what you want to, it can be done. I have had a Nanocom longer than anyone on here and I know how to use it.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Tell it like it is, Tony. Opinions are for girls!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
It's not @Enthusiastman under another name is it ,sorry couldn't resistResult but don't go replacing the becm and ecu if it's all working. Sounds like your drivers door locking mechanism is a good place to start. Don't build a list of parts to throw at it unless you know it is a repair that is needed. That's how a bad feeling of resentment starts towards the car after throwing money at it.
One day at a time sweet Jesus!
Enjoy your new '38
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
That’s not what I meant you don’t have to prove anything to me. Fact I’m still here with a functional p38 proves you right and a lot of other people wrong.
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Has someone unplugged the RF receiver under the rear parcel shelf? tarphenry isn't so far from you.
If they have unplugged the RF receiver you will have to hold the fob right up to the wire on the driver's side rear quarterlight. You may also have to sync the key.
No key fob doesn’t work, using the key blade to lock.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Dangerous unless you turn off EKA and the immobiliser in the BECM.
You could try the sync procedure if the LED lights up on the fob but it needs RF receiver and working microswitches in the door latch. If the central locking worked off the key before this, both locking and unlocking, and the boot opened then all should be good. If not then it won't sync the fob or take the EKA until you fix the lock actuator... unless you get clever earthing wires.
Assuming the BECM hasn't been swapped the EKA can be got from the main dealer if you show the log-book etc. There used to be one near Richmond in London that did it over the phone but I cannot recall who they were. Make sure you open the door after 2 failed attempts to input the EKA or it will start to time out and after 9 attempts lock out for good.
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Dealer couldn't do the EKA for us, we had to ring JLR heritage to get it, but confirming the VIN and owner details to them got the EKA over the phone no problem. That was about 2-3 months back. I do plan to get to grips with the Nanocom and turn off the EKA / immobiliser as we are pretty sure there are worn / faulty driver door microswitches.
Hoping Datatek gets the time to do his lock microswitch guide for us mere mortals to follow. Then we could probably go back to the standard boot release too!
Early lock actuators are easy as the microswitches just clip in and out - no soldering required. Not played with the later ones but I remember Marty saying they were more complex. He upgrades them, particularly the centre one as that the one the boot uses to ground itself and tends to burn out.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
there is no difference between early and late as it is not possible to buy the 3 micro switch assembly, it has to be made up from 3 individual micro switches, so soldering is involved. I have done a 95 RHD, a 2000 RHD and a 99 LHD, the first photo shows the difference between LHD & RHD, the second the 3 individual micro switches that have to be made into a block of three.
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They're individual on my '95 but they are all on a rod, iirc. Thought I put pictures up on here somewhere.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I would say then that they have been replaced at some time.
Could be. I am the 8th or 9th owner!
Also could be MGF microswitches. I have a selection where some of them have the 2-rod arrangement, and others are a block of three. Most of them have wires disappearing inside, but couple have soldered terminals so clearly replacements. Also some of the MGF latches have same connector arrangement as P38, but others have an extra connector for the CDL ground. Either way the bits are good for repairing P38 latches. I now have good & bad pile of motors & switches !!
Also ordered some new microswitches from RS last night (6A for CDL & 0.1A for the other two).
Still looking for a small puller to swap the P38 spinner onto the new motors I found. Tried a modeller's puller, but it was too small for diameter of the plastic bits.
Also ordered some new microswitches from RS last night (6A for CDL & 0.1A for the other two).
Still looking for a small puller to swap the P38 spinner onto the new motors I found. Tried a modeller's puller, but it was too small for diameter of the plastic bits.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The separate CDL ground is present on later P38's.
The 6 amp rating is for 240 volts AC, depending on which switches you have ordered, they will be 1 or 2 amps rated for DC per the manufacturers data sheet. I use the higher current ones for all 3 switches, I see no point in using the lower current types
