tyke100

tyke100

Active Member
Hi People.
Can anyone help with blower.motor questions please ?
1997 range rover p38 2.5d

Are both side heather blower motors are the same ?
And / or would anyone have the part number for it by any chance please.

I replaced the driversude one before and now the passenger side dosnt work anymore. So I need to replace that one now but trying to source one very quick. It's getting cold. Lol
There a lot on offer but they all look different even stating p38.
 
tyke100 said:
Hi People.
Can anyone help with blower.motor questions please ?
1997 range rover p38 2.5d

Are both side heather blower motors are the same ?
And / or would anyone have the part number for it by any chance please.

I replaced the driversude one before and now the passenger side dosnt work anymore. So I need to replace that one now but trying to source one very quick. It's getting cold. Lol
There a lot on offer but they all look different even stating p38.
Click to expand...
I can't help you whether they are the same but at least the passenger side is easier to replace than the driver's side. Have you got the old one to compare? Or try finding the part numbers and see if they are the same.
 
I think the motors are the same but no guarantees. It's probably not the motor that has failed but the speed control transistor.
 
I found someone selling an apparently left or/and right side motor. He saying both the same.
When replaced the right side I kept the old one but it was burned out on the bushes.
I had water coming in through the cabinfilters when I bought it.
When i checked the passenger it was fine and working.
That is nearly 2 years ago.
The driverside was a nasty peace of work but I exchanged it and it worked to the day.

Now is the passenger side not working.
Nanocom is saying shortcut circuit in motor.
Even I sealed both cabinfilters back then, the passenger started leaking again and there is water under the motor. So, yep, already know the fault. Lol
So, yes. Without dismantling the car and render it useless to use for a week or so I try to source a replacement and do it in an hour when is not raining.

I sealed the filter housing on the passengerside up again.

As far as I remember they are slight different unless is my memory.
I cant find any part numbers and with the right side I was lucky.
None of the motors had any labels.on when I had them out.
I could afford the car couldn't be used for a while as I had a replacement back then. Its different now. And may not a good idea leaving all in bits driving around.
 
tyke100 said:
I found someone selling an apparently left or/and right side motor. He saying both the same.
When replaced the right side I kept the old one but it was burned out on the bushes.
I had water coming in through the cabinfilters when I bought it.
When i checked the passenger it was fine and working.
That is nearly 2 years ago.
The driverside was a nasty peace of work but I exchanged it and it worked to the day.

Now is the passenger side not working.
Nanocom is saying shortcut circuit in motor.
Even I sealed both cabinfilters back then, the passenger started leaking again and there is water under the motor. So, yep, already know the fault. Lol
So, yes. Without dismantling the car and render it useless to use for a week or so I try to source a replacement and do it in an hour when is not raining.

I sealed the filter housing on the passengerside up again.

As far as I remember they are slight different unless is my memory.
I cant find any part numbers and with the right side I was lucky.
None of the motors had any labels.on when I had them out.
I could afford the car couldn't be used for a while as I had a replacement back then. Its different now. And may not a good idea leaving all in bits driving around.
Click to expand...
I believe it's only the glove box you have to remove to get to the motor, you can do without that for a while.;)think @Henry_b posted photos not so long ago.
 
Done it. Yes glovebox and kick pannel under it.
But, installing the replacement one, worked.
Today it didn't.
Codes as before. Shortcut on motor and same on blend motor.

Clearing faults. Working. Switch car of and on . Not working.
Checked all electrics and there is no shortcut. All resistance in and.out is fine.

Can it be a problem with the hevac controll unit or any connectors loose?

Thinking of getting a bbq on the passenger footwell for heating in this rate lol
 
tyke100 said:
Done it. Yes glovebox and kick pannel under it.
But, installing the replacement one, worked.
Today it didn't.
Codes as before. Shortcut on motor and same on blend motor.

Clearing faults. Working. Switch car of and on . Not working.
Checked all electrics and there is no shortcut. All resistance in and.out is fine.

Can it be a problem with the hevac controll unit or any connectors loose?

Thinking of getting a bbq on the passenger footwell for heating in this rate lol
Click to expand...
What I did on mine to get through last winter was to crocodile clip 2 wires to motor run wires and have them come out below glove box and use a 9volt battery to move blend motor into correct position. Worked a treat til I changed blend motor(existing blend motor had potentiometer failure but motor ran with power applied)
 
tyke100 said:
Done it. Yes glovebox and kick pannel under it.
But, installing the replacement one, worked.
Today it didn't.
Codes as before. Shortcut on motor and same on blend motor.

Clearing faults. Working. Switch car of and on . Not working.
Checked all electrics and there is no shortcut. All resistance in and.out is fine.

Can it be a problem with the hevac controll unit or any connectors loose?

Thinking of getting a bbq on the passenger footwell for heating in this rate lol
Click to expand...
Sounds like a HEVAC problem, with diagnostics you should be able to check.
 
Rubberknees said:
What I did on mine to get through last winter was to crocodile clip 2 wires to motor run wires and have them come out below glove box and use a 9volt battery to move blend motor into correct position. Worked a treat til I changed blend motor(existing blend motor had potentiometer failure but motor ran with power applied)
Click to expand...

So, I assume.you used positive and negative to power the motor?
Sounds good to me, compare a day work in the rain.lol.
And I can source a decant blend thingy.
It is in the right adjustment so that's fine.
Just the motor dosnt get power, however it is from the build technic to power it up.
Hevac unit or any other parts between.

I do this, go over switch to ignition electric and negative.
Thanks
 
Datatek said:
Sounds like a HEVAC problem, with diagnostics you should be able to check.
Click to expand...

I tried with nanocom, but all it gives is this shortcut stuff on the left side motor and blend motor.

Which I had when I bought the vehicle but worked for over a year perfectly fine.

May helps unplug the hevac unit from supply for a while? ( read this in some.fb post, not sure if it helps )
 
tyke100 said:
I tried with nanocom, but all it gives is this shortcut stuff on the left side motor and blend motor.

Which I had when I bought the vehicle but worked for over a year perfectly fine.

May helps unplug the hevac unit from supply for a while? ( read this in some.fb post, not sure if it helps )
Click to expand...
Second had spare HEVAC's are not expensive
 
There's a breaker about 40 miles from here. May go there and get one which works and swap over.
If it works I buy it, if not is no point.
The problem is, I need to have time to go there when he has open. Lol

I start believing its the hevac unit. Motor works with power and blowing hot. I know it never changed from hot to cold but dodnt need cold as i rather have roof or / and windows open in the summer. ( gos back to the blend motor I believe ) Driverside works fine.
 
Make sure you get the correct Hevac unit for your vehicle.check the part number on the back of your old one.try a search I'm sure someone posted a list.
 
tyke100 said:
There's a breaker about 40 miles from here. May go there and get one which works and swap over.
If it works I buy it, if not is no point.
The problem is, I need to have time to go there when he has open. Lol

I start believing its the hevac unit. Motor works with power and blowing hot. I know it never changed from hot to cold but dodnt need cold as i rather have roof or / and windows open in the summer. ( gos back to the blend motor I believe ) Driverside works fine.
Click to expand...
As I said my blend motor worked fine with power from battery attached but not from HEVAC. Potentiometer had gone in side blend motor. Nanocom would not show this. There is a video on tube showing how to use a multi meter to test potentiometer using the cable unplugged at HEVAC. Might be worth a try Try googling how to test potentiometer on P38 RR
 
We found the legs on the potentiomètre in my son's 38' had cracked solder joints. o_O
That gave Intermittent problems then stopped all together.
 
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