ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
make sure its the right part number there's lots of variations that look the same
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
OBX97
Member
Got the dash apart and found said wire. Pushed and pulled on some things. Sometimes everything would stay on, then just go off again. Replaced the BECM underhood maxi-fuses too. I really don't want to take it to a shop if I can avoid it, the local land rover expert is fairly pricy. Any other ideas? It seems to stay on when the truck has warmed fully up after driving for a bit.
Attachments
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
On the under hood fuse box pull the relays out. And look for signs of browning on the relays or melting around the relay connectors .. it could be the under hood fuse box is failing. There are tracks on it which start to fail. Mine were most visible to the front of the fuse box.. nothing major just some light melting around the heater blower relays maybe the tracks are starting to crack up and expanding enough when warm to make the connection
OBX97
Member
Thank you sir. I'll check that now. I tried hooking into the pink and white wire and grounding that and no joy.
OBX97
Member
I checked and some were light brown. I have cleaned them up alittle. I'm going to do a test tomorrow after work, just to make sure it's when the truck is hot. That will limit it down to either something in the engine bay or maybe just a coincidence with the POS1 ignition wire.
ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
the browning will be from high electrical loads. a sign that he fusebox is going to give problems
OBX97
Member
So more than likely the stuttering accessories would be the under-hood fuse box? It would make sense. I just don't know what do to do fix it.
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuse-petrol-9798-genuine-amr6476-p-3484.html
Check the part number though, a few different ones depending on the model and year
Check the part number though, a few different ones depending on the model and year
martyuk
Well-Known Member
The picture you show has 2 connectors in it, neither of which are the ones for the igntiion position 1 wire.
I've mentioned where the wire ends up on the BECM, have you tried testing the continuity along that wire back to the connector with the ignition switch?
If you can hear relays chattering in the BECM then to me it has to be something internal in the vehicle. If it we an underbonnet fuse box issue and dropout of power to the BECM then you would have other electrical things that are failing too, rather than just a few things not working like the HEVAC/Radio.
For Reference, C0028 in the top picture is where the White/Pink wire starts at the igntiion switch, and C1280 in the bottom picture is where it ends up at the BECM. Only doing a continuity check on that wire with a multimeter (including wiggling the loom etc about a bit whilst the meter is connected) will be able to tell if there's a break in it somewhere.
I've mentioned where the wire ends up on the BECM, have you tried testing the continuity along that wire back to the connector with the ignition switch?
If you can hear relays chattering in the BECM then to me it has to be something internal in the vehicle. If it we an underbonnet fuse box issue and dropout of power to the BECM then you would have other electrical things that are failing too, rather than just a few things not working like the HEVAC/Radio.
For Reference, C0028 in the top picture is where the White/Pink wire starts at the igntiion switch, and C1280 in the bottom picture is where it ends up at the BECM. Only doing a continuity check on that wire with a multimeter (including wiggling the loom etc about a bit whilst the meter is connected) will be able to tell if there's a break in it somewhere.
OBX97
Member
Thank you for this. I will check this after work and report back.The picture you show has 2 connectors in it, neither of which are the ones for the igntiion position 1 wire.
I've mentioned where the wire ends up on the BECM, have you tried testing the continuity along that wire back to the connector with the ignition switch?
If you can hear relays chattering in the BECM then to me it has to be something internal in the vehicle. If it we an underbonnet fuse box issue and dropout of power to the BECM then you would have other electrical things that are failing too, rather than just a few things not working like the HEVAC/Radio.
For Reference, C0028 in the top picture is where the White/Pink wire starts at the igntiion switch, and C1280 in the bottom picture is where it ends up at the BECM. Only doing a continuity check on that wire with a multimeter (including wiggling the loom etc about a bit whilst the meter is connected) will be able to tell if there's a break in it somewhere.
OBX97
Member
So I did a check and the wire pulls about 10.7v, but when I turn the key into the accessory position, it drops all power. Is this normal?The picture you show has 2 connectors in it, neither of which are the ones for the igntiion position 1 wire.
I've mentioned where the wire ends up on the BECM, have you tried testing the continuity along that wire back to the connector with the ignition switch?
If you can hear relays chattering in the BECM then to me it has to be something internal in the vehicle. If it we an underbonnet fuse box issue and dropout of power to the BECM then you would have other electrical things that are failing too, rather than just a few things not working like the HEVAC/Radio.
For Reference, C0028 in the top picture is where the White/Pink wire starts at the igntiion switch, and C1280 in the bottom picture is where it ends up at the BECM. Only doing a continuity check on that wire with a multimeter (including wiggling the loom etc about a bit whilst the meter is connected) will be able to tell if there's a break in it somewhere.
See attached //
OBX97
Member
So should I splice into the line and run my own wire straight to the one in the ignition? Or does the problem lie elsewhere?
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure, simply because I don't have the wiring diagram to hand.
Basically, there is a wire with a very high resistance connection somewhere and when you load up the circuit, it pulls the voltage down to zero. Find the high resistance and make it good and the problem should be solved.
Basically, there is a wire with a very high resistance connection somewhere and when you load up the circuit, it pulls the voltage down to zero. Find the high resistance and make it good and the problem should be solved.
OBX97
Member
Would the high resistance be some where along the White/Pink line or in the same harness somewhere?
martyuk
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I'm busy at work a lot of the time at the moment, and in a totally different timezone to the UK - so trying to catch up as/when I can...
The ignition switch doesn't switch a live feed, but rather it switches a ground signal. So on a multimeter, you possibly will see a voltage on the wire when the ignition isn't switched on, and it should go to 0V when turned on if it's connecting to ground properly.
That being said, depending on the resistance of the connection will depend on whether the ground signal gets to the BECM properly or not.
I would still be trying a CONTINUITY test ALONG the white/pink wire from the ignition to the BECM. Unplug the connector from the BECM with the White/Pink wire in it, and do the same at the ignition. If you have a digital multimeter with a continuity test setting (or beep tone - same thing, or if you don't have that function, then resistance check, on a 200 ohms setting) then (probably with a small bit of wire as a jumper to get into the pins) connect one probe to the ignition end, one to the BECM connector end. If it beeps and shows 0 ohms, then you have continuity and a decent connection. If you then wiggle the wiring, wiring loom in the sill etc and the meter stops beeping, then you have a break in the wire. If it stays beeping and the resistance is still showing near 0 ohms then chances are the wire is OK and the fault is elsewhere.
If you do that, then it will tell you whether the issue is in the White/Pink wire from the ignition back to the BECM. If the problem isn't there, then remove the meter probes, plug it back in, and then turn the key to ignition position I whilst listening down near the BECM to see if you hear a click of the relays when you turn the ignition on.
If the wire is working, then it does point to an issue in the BECM, or something that's shorting out somewhere and causing the chattering of relays that you hear when the problem occurs.
The ignition switch doesn't switch a live feed, but rather it switches a ground signal. So on a multimeter, you possibly will see a voltage on the wire when the ignition isn't switched on, and it should go to 0V when turned on if it's connecting to ground properly.
That being said, depending on the resistance of the connection will depend on whether the ground signal gets to the BECM properly or not.
I would still be trying a CONTINUITY test ALONG the white/pink wire from the ignition to the BECM. Unplug the connector from the BECM with the White/Pink wire in it, and do the same at the ignition. If you have a digital multimeter with a continuity test setting (or beep tone - same thing, or if you don't have that function, then resistance check, on a 200 ohms setting) then (probably with a small bit of wire as a jumper to get into the pins) connect one probe to the ignition end, one to the BECM connector end. If it beeps and shows 0 ohms, then you have continuity and a decent connection. If you then wiggle the wiring, wiring loom in the sill etc and the meter stops beeping, then you have a break in the wire. If it stays beeping and the resistance is still showing near 0 ohms then chances are the wire is OK and the fault is elsewhere.
If you do that, then it will tell you whether the issue is in the White/Pink wire from the ignition back to the BECM. If the problem isn't there, then remove the meter probes, plug it back in, and then turn the key to ignition position I whilst listening down near the BECM to see if you hear a click of the relays when you turn the ignition on.
If the wire is working, then it does point to an issue in the BECM, or something that's shorting out somewhere and causing the chattering of relays that you hear when the problem occurs.
OBX97
Member
I did this, and it has good continuity. No clicks however. I am going to go for a test run today and see if I can get it to warm up.
