Cars not doing it’s little suspension dance today when engine is idle but was in the cold last night. Can a leak be intermittent depending on temperature height of bags etc? Dropped over night but it’s parked on a slope and was cold and I haven’t really done the heights on the corners properly yet. Whilst out in it this morning no movement when I was parked up.
When I had my leak, I serviced the valve block too. My leak was caused by a hole in the exhaust back box which melted a pipe to the air storage tank.
Anyway, there is potential for leakage from any of the pipe joints, but also the EAS Valve Block "O" rings and valves as the "O" rings can dry up and crack after years of service.
Anyway, there is potential for leakage from any of the pipe joints, but also the EAS Valve Block "O" rings and valves as the "O" rings can dry up and crack after years of service.
I changed all the o rings in the valve block in the summer and the ones that came out didn’t look very old anyway. I just find it very odd as once I had changed the o rings on the valve block the car didn’t drop at all it sat for over a week once and didn’t drop. Now I can leave the car for a few minutes and it can be almost on the bump stops when I come back it’s. I can hear it clicking away lowering its self for a lot longer that it should but today it’s been fine again
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That is typical of a leak as the car tries to stay level with one or more corner leaks.
Indeed. But the impression i got from the post was that the drier can cause a corner leak when it cannot. Was just ruling that possibility out.
No, was just thinking of possible leaks storage side. I was skimming the posts and was a little uncertain if it really is losing air and dropping at night or just self-levelling.
Depends if it is on a slope. If a corner goes beyond a certain threshold it will try to self-level. Early cars seem to do it a lot more than later ones. Calibrating the suspension may help if a sensor is borderline. When you remove the delay-timer it takes all that nonsense out of the equation. If it isn't dropping with the delay timer removed but the pump is running a lot then either there is a leak storage side (there are some NRVs in addition to the little black o-rings required to completely overhaul the valve block) or there is an electrical fault of some sort causing it to run. Dancing at lights has been mentioned before but it might be the connectors to the driver-pack itself inside the EAS box - the flat black thing.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
did you use red or black O rings? The red ones are not a lot of good.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If the compressor is running due to an electrical fault the relief valve should blow. There is really only the pressure switch and relay involved in starting and stopping the compressor.
I'm not sure if it's obvious to the OP, but you pull the timer relay and replace it with a standard yellow one. Then you have all functions except self levelling, and diagnostics, and all the time in the world to observe it's behaviour. A decent calibration (if with blocks) at std height is worth doing too, and then you can assess what leaks etc still remain
Black o rings
The relief valve is blowing and often when I start the car free a short stop the car has to lower itself from high mode
I found right back wasn’t connected properly a few weeks ago belt and braces I’ve been having trouble with the suspension for almost two years now
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The pipes can be hard to get fully in place, a smear of silicone grease one the end of the pipe helps.
I found it better to turn pencil sharpener backwards but you need have a little force behind it to slightly roll pipe edge over.
O'rings in them can be replaced.
