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Josiepop93

New Member
Having an issue with the air suspension on my P38 (surprise surprise)
Had it for about 2 months now and this started about 2 weeks ago when the temperatures dropped to around 0c
Basically what happens is as I'm driving the rear left suspension slowly lifts higher and higher until its sitting as high as the shock will allow it.
If I change the height using the dash switch the front will lower and raise but the back won't
If I use the eas software I have no stored codes, aside from vehicle has moved, the sensors read fine (as far as I can tell so far)
Using the software to deflate the bags the front will deflate but the back won't.
Pulling the air line for the rear bags from the valve block and the air will release but as I drive along the back slowly lifts up further and further
Both rear sensors are new and calibrated and both rear bags are new also
(front bags in good condition and don't sag overnight etc)
Thoughts on where to go next with replacing parts?
My personal thoughts are a bad sensor on the front right but it doesn't seem to be reading weird
Or something sticking in the valve block, although if that was the case I'd assume non of the bags would deflate since they share the same exhaust valve?

Hoping someone has came across this before o_O
Thanks for any help in advance!
 
Sounds like a leaky valve in the valve block to me but I'm surprised there are no fault codes as the system should pick up a sensor out of range.
Worth checking all the connectors in the EAS box for corrosion.
 
Datatek said:
Sounds like a leaky valve in the valve block to me but I'm surprised there are no fault codes as the system should pick up a sensor out of range.
Worth checking all the connectors in the EAS box for corrosion.
Click to expand...

I'll be sure to re-check that tommorow! Although I've been through pretty much every connector relating to the eas and cleaned it all I assume by a leaky valve you are working on the theory that it's allowing the air from the compressor and tank to slowly work its way into the bag? And I agree the lack of codes is what's throwing me aswell.
 
Josiepop93 said:
I'll be sure to re-check that tommorow! Although I've been through pretty much every connector relating to the eas and cleaned it all I assume by a leaky valve you are working on the theory that it's allowing the air from the compressor and tank to slowly work its way into the bag? And I agree the lack of codes is what's throwing me aswell.
Click to expand...
The right rear solinoid is on the underside of the valve block nearest to the blue pipe inlet. Best do them all and check the exhaust silencer/filter for white spec's of dessicant from the air dryer @kurtjohnson10 is the man if you don't want to rebuild it yourself
 
tomcat59alan said:
The right rear solinoid is on the underside of the valve block nearest to the blue pipe inlet. Best do them all and check the exhaust silencer/filter for white spec's of dessicant from the air dryer@kurtjohnson10 is the man if you don't want to rebuild it yourself
Click to expand...
I've got a rebuild kit on order, and the store I bought it from did mention the desiccant thing, which I guess should also be added to the parts list (not that I mind!.. Until the other week I was loving the ride comfort from the air suspension) :)
 
Josiepop93 said:
I've got a rebuild kit on order, and the store I bought it from did mention the desiccant thing, which I guess should also be added to the parts list (not that I mind!.. Until the other week I was loving the ride comfort from the air suspension) :)
Click to expand...
Probably teaching a grandmother how to suck eggs, but mark and photograph everything before you strip the block down ,I used an ultrasonic bath to clean it and an airline to make sure everything was clean and clear. I've heard of members using the dishwasher.;)
 
Also have a check of the white connector block behind the passenger a post kick panel they suffer from green corrosion, any signs cut the connector out and solder and heat shrink the wires.
 
brianp38dse said:
Also have a check of the white connector block behind the passenger a post kick panel they suffer from green corrosion, any signs cut the connector out and solder and heat shrink the wires.
Click to expand...
I've had that connection apart and cleaned it up but I've heard of people soldering them before so I may do that also just for peace of mind.
 
Josiepop93 said:
I've had that connection apart and cleaned it up but I've heard of people soldering them before so I may do that also just for peace of mind.
Click to expand...
Connectors are a must, do the both sides in the vehicle.
I'm not sure on the eas software you have but if you have live data from the sensors, any flickering in the values will tell of a dodgy sensor.:)
 
Mark Piercy said:
Connectors are a must, do the both sides in the vehicle.
I'm not sure on the eas software you have but if you have live data from the sensors, any flickering in the values will tell of a dodgy sensor.:)
Click to expand...
With the RSW EAS software, you can read the sensors, but no live data as such, in any case the software response would likely be too slow to really show anomalies, same applies to DVM's, an analogue meter is needed.
 
Well I've finally tracked down the cause.. Re soldered the connectors in the interior and re built the valve block, seemed to be fine for a week, then it rained and it went all messed up again, finally got a rear right sensor fault, pulled the plug from it and found it was corroded, gave it a quick clean and spray with some electrical cleaner and it's working fine again, I shall get a new harness for that corner. Thanks for all the suggestions and at least by rebuilding the valve block and soldering that connectors I've removed possible problem points from the mix :)
 
Mark Piercy said:
Connectors are a must, do the both sides in the vehicle.
I'm not sure on the eas software you have but if you have live data from the sensors, any flickering in the values will tell of a dodgy sensor.:)
Click to expand...
Are there connections relating to the eas on the right hand side kick panel aswell? I was unaware! I will have to get those done too then
 
Josiepop93 said:
Well I've finally tracked down the cause.. Re soldered the connectors in the interior and re built the valve block, seemed to be fine for a week, then it rained and it went all messed up again, finally got a rear right sensor fault, pulled the plug from it and found it was corroded, gave it a quick clean and spray with some electrical cleaner and it's working fine again, I shall get a new harness for that corner. Thanks for all the suggestions and at least by rebuilding the valve block and soldering that connectors I've removed possible problem points from the mix :)
Click to expand...
Well done and thanks for the update.;)
 
Josiepop93 said:
Well I've finally tracked down the cause.. Re soldered the connectors in the interior and re built the valve block, seemed to be fine for a week, then it rained and it went all messed up again, finally got a rear right sensor fault, pulled the plug from it and found it was corroded, gave it a quick clean and spray with some electrical cleaner and it's working fine again, I shall get a new harness for that corner. Thanks for all the suggestions and at least by rebuilding the valve block and soldering that connectors I've removed possible problem points from the mix :)
Click to expand...
Cut the connector off and solder to the sensor pins then cover with glue filled heatshrink. Cheaper and quicker than a new harness.
 
Are there pins visible that can be soldered? Without splitting the sensor? Mine needs that too methinks.
 
Ta much. I have a pretty good gas one so may well give it a shot when it is a bit warmer
 
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