T

trukka

New Member
Hi all,

Had my first EAS "issue" this morning ! Only had the car a few weeks and getting an EAS lead with software etc was on my to do list -( or maybe some make of reset tool) plus doing a soap test and compressor refurb.

I heard an "air hissing sound" yesterday evening - from the front of the car. This morning the car got to it's standard ride height reasonably quickly - couple of minutes down the road. A few miles later - BEEP BEEP , 4 lights on EAS panel flash a few times then stay on. I have heard of the EAS 35MPH message but mine just shows " EAS FAULT " - what is the difference ?

I have obviously not used the laptop/lead setup for the EAS before and do not have a Kicker - any thoughts on which setup is better ( I do not have a laptop though )? I will have to reset EAS as well as the other work. Anyone near London N9 who can give me a demonstration ?
 
The Eas Fault message is what's known as a soft fault - the rangeywill go to full height but remains drivable.

If you get the 35mph max message, that's a hard fault and drops the car to its bump stops.

It depends what has caused the fault condition as to which fault mode it goes into. If you can hear air escaping then it's a pretty serious fault and I would expect it to hard fault.

Unfortunately either fault condition requires a computer to clear it, be it a eas kicker, eas unlock software or a testbook. You will need to fix the fault though. Probably an airbag.

Have a look on rangerovers.net for a good fault finding guide.

I've got a kicker and the eas unlock software. The kicker is good cos it can sit in the glovebox for the occasional random fault but the eas software is much more comprehensive but does need a laptop and lead.

Don't buy a kicker from ebay - check the suppliers website. they were much cheaper last time I looked. They're ridiculously expensive on ebay.

I would lend you mine but not local I'm afraid.

Guy
 
Hi,

The compressor does not run now when the engine is running - is there a way to "jump " it so I can inflate the suspension ( not on bump stops now but with a leak somewhere it will be soon ) ?

Then I can check for leaks.

There was a seller on Ebay who stocked compressor refurb kit ( seal, piston and cylinder liner ) but he has none in stock at the moment.

Regards
Alex
 
Go onto rangerovers.net, there is a comprehensive guide to manual operation of the EAS system using jumper wires from the ECU plug. ran mine for weeks like this while waiting for delivery of a Kicker from BBS.
 
Cheers kooky and spud

Will try and find my leak tomorrow - spud how did you monitor pin 13 for 12 volts ( correct pressure achived ) ? I assume a voltmeter between pin 13 and what ?

Alex
 
Also rr net mentions turning ignition on to run compressor with pins 1 and 8 connected. What about running the engine to preserve battery power ?
Alex
 
Try searching for a manual inflation kit on fleabay or one of the suppliers (can’t remember where I got mine at the moment). Had to have the bags replaced on mine but no-one local to reset the EAS hard fault (Scottish Highlands). I found that, once the bags were pumped up, the compressor ran and the system worked as it should until I stopped and put the handbrake on. I then got the beeps from the dash and it sat on the bumpstops. Another 20 minutes pumping it up (with the handbrake off and the engine running) and it got me the 250 miles home. And it lowered on the motorway and raised when off - even with the fault on the dash. Most odd I know. No idea whether that's just an anomaly on mine or maybe a software/hardware design quirk.
Good luck
 
Derek,
Hi - thanks - what PSI would one inflate the individual air springs to - via the manual valves ?
Alex
 
The pressure switch can be just measured agains earth, one of the seat bolts will be fine, it will go from 0 to battery/alternator voltage. Actually IIRC pin 1 is earth, just check that with a continuity meter.

Don't worry about the pressure the bags are inflated to, just try and get them to the ride height you want.
 
Hi all,

Got the EAS connector/unit off - jumped 1 and 8 and the compressor runs. Ready with my multimeter to check pin 13 - silly query - am I measuring AC or DC ?

Alex
 
I had problems with my P38 Esa, i google it and found a guy in the luton area who comes out to you. He reset mine and explanined everything I wanted to know. I thought about buying the software etc.... but as i am not very good with computers I called this chap.
All he did was plug in a laptop into something on the passenger side and told me what was wrong,reset it and all good so far.
I don't know if i can post his website on here?
www.mobileautoelectrician.com


If I have done wrong, sorry
 
Hi,

Suspension raised up somewhat with engine running .
Appears to be no output from pin 13 - multimeter on AC or DC so I did not let the compressor run for too long - anyone had this ?
Regards
Alex
 
Hi Trukka
The pressure the airbags take is around 50 to 80psi depending on what height you want them at. I was just pumping mine up until they were high enough. If your EAS ECU and valveblock etc are working OK, it will level itself out.
Good luck
Derek
 
Hi Trukka,

It will be ~12v DC. depending on the state of your compressor this will take up to 15 minutes, maybe more, to change state before it might fault out. If its still not changing state look to taking apart the compressor, the piston seal is probably gone. This is norma;;y done to leaks in the system.
Do a bit of research on threads here, rangerovers.net and roverrenovations.com and you'll soon come to grips with it
 
Hi spud - cheers - I am not getting a reading on my multimeter from pin 13 and ground.
I am assuming pin 13 follows on from pin 8 along that row of pins.
Also what would happen if the engine was actually running whilst the connector was off the EAS ECU whilst jumping pins 1 and 8 ? Just thinking of not running the battery down.

Regards
Alex
 
Hello there Trukka, I have an EAS Kicker lite in my glove box and I'm only down the road in BHP. If you PM me with your address or ask for mine, I can reset fault code for you. I 'm around Edmonton during the day, most days for work so I could call on you if you are home during the day any time,
Regards, John, JV ROVERMAN.
 
Engine running with ECU disconnected is no problem. It will throw up a fault on the message centre but you can clear this by putting the jumper wire as per RR.net. The only thing is that with the engine off you can hear every valve working as you do your work through.

Be certain that you are counting the pins correctly, I assume if you are running the comp that you are.

If you're not getting the pressure switch to change state then its either a faulty pressure switch ( 1 or 2% of the time) or worn out compressor (98-99%). This is normally the piston seal but I had a reed valve fail on mine too.
 
kooky_guy said:
The Eas Fault message is what's known as a soft fault - the rangeywill go to full height but remains drivable.

If you get the 35mph max message, that's a hard fault and drops the car to its bump stops.

It depends what has caused the fault condition as to which fault mode it goes into. If you can hear air escaping then it's a pretty serious fault and I would expect it to hard fault.

Unfortunately either fault condition requires a computer to clear it, be it a eas kicker, eas unlock software or a testbook. You will need to fix the fault though. Probably an airbag.

Have a look on rangerovers.net for a good fault finding guide.

I've got a kicker and the eas unlock software. The kicker is good cos it can sit in the glovebox for the occasional random fault but the eas software is much more comprehensive but does need a laptop and lead.

Don't buy a kicker from ebay - check the suppliers website. they were much cheaper last time I looked. They're ridiculously expensive on ebay.

I would lend you mine but not local I'm afraid.

Guy
Click to expand...

Hi Guy

Thanks for your comments on here. Based in the area and just about to buy a late 2000/X P38 - what should I get to enable me to plug any potential purchase in to my laptop and spot any issues (now and in the future) and where is good in Hampshire/Surrey to buy the kit in your view please!?
Thanks
D.
 
djv said:
Hi Guy

Thanks for your comments on here. Based in the area and just about to buy a late 2000/X P38 - what should I get to enable me to plug any potential purchase in to my laptop and spot any issues (now and in the future) and where is good in Hampshire/Surrey to buy the kit in your view please!?
Thanks
D.
Click to expand...

See FCR thread on this forum for a device to read and clear codes, with a bit more cash go for the BBS Faultmate reads and clears codes but can also force system states and change settings. Useful for testing things out. Online from Cypress.

I don't have one (but want one) so someone like IrishRover or RickThePick could fill in more info on its capabilities.
 
djv said:
Hi Guy

Thanks for your comments on here. Based in the area and just about to buy a late 2000/X P38 - what should I get to enable me to plug any potential purchase in to my laptop and spot any issues (now and in the future) and where is good in Hampshire/Surrey to buy the kit in your view please!?
Thanks
D.
Click to expand...

As Adam say's, Faultmate or FCR from BBS, or if you just want to deal with the EAS which is one of the common fault areas, download the free software from rswsolutions.com and buy or make a cable. You can also buy an EAS kicker from BBS.:D
 
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