it was a simple task in the end.
15mm drop end spanner required for the one nut next to the turbo.

Undo, both radiator hoses from the rad.
Remover metal and flex pipe to turbo (total removal just so I could see better)
Air filter put undo
Intercooler pipe undo.

that was it.

Car put on stands, Wheels off (but not really needed I think)
Used jack and block of wood under engine. removed all nuts from both engine blocks jacked up one side, replaced and lowered, moved jake did same to other side.

Tighted top nuts, put lower nuts on full nut, reconnected pipes and run engine.

Stopped engine and tightened lower nuts.

Lowered and test run.

Could the vibration come from the Cat?

done enough to it now but its so cloase to being really great. Will post work done in the last 10mths on the running rebuild.
Regards

If it were a baffle I would recommend a light sharp tap with a rubber mallet to hear it rattling about inside but a cat not!
 
Well, for all diesel lovers....

Took the RR to matey with an autologic today to try and solve the idle issue thought to be causing the vibration/self destruction on mine. Idle on the data showed 430 when cool and 370 when hot!! which he said would contribute greatly to the symptoms I had described, it actually happened while it was plugged it and sounded like a gurgling v8 on a drag strip (wishful thinking perhaps). He said it was all probably due to the PSI box I had fitted. So we experimented with and with out it plugged in and only made a slight difference. With it out the idle (hot) was at 650 and it sounded a bit better. I wanted it plugged in so I said tune i with it in.


Anyway after some tweaks and button pressing he managed to tune up the idle to sit at 780 although only showing 400 on the rev counter. Ok so sounds a little fast to me but if it solves the problem so be it, it was fine on the way home.

Thats the boring bit...

He then said do you want to stick it on the 4 wheel dyno and see if we get any vibrations through the range? We did and hooked it all up... expecting to be embarrassed horribly next to the V8 RRC he had all polished and shiny...

97 Manual DSE, PSI box, Silicone hoses, OEM intercooler, Powerflow twin exhaust
144,458 miles, non EGR and (wash my mouth out) K&N panel filter. Shell Fuelsave diesel with REDEX....

0-60mph 8.4 Secs (no air resistance)
0-100mph 15.9 Secs " "

192 RWHP
371 NM

(best of 3 runs)

and of course...a reason for my slipping clutch....
 
Well, for all diesel lovers....

Took the RR to matey with an autologic today to try and solve the idle issue thought to be causing the vibration/self destruction on mine. Idle on the data showed 430 when cool and 370 when hot!! which he said would contribute greatly to the symptoms I had described, it actually happened while it was plugged it and sounded like a gurgling v8 on a drag strip (wishful thinking perhaps). He said it was all probably due to the PSI box I had fitted. So we experimented with and with out it plugged in and only made a slight difference. With it out the idle (hot) was at 650 and it sounded a bit better. I wanted it plugged in so I said tune i with it in.


Anyway after some tweaks and button pressing he managed to tune up the idle to sit at 780 although only showing 400 on the rev counter. Ok so sounds a little fast to me but if it solves the problem so be it, it was fine on the way home.

Thats the boring bit...

He then said do you want to stick it on the 4 wheel dyno and see if we get any vibrations through the range? We did and hooked it all up... expecting to be embarrassed horribly next to the V8 RRC he had all polished and shiny...

97 Manual DSE, PSI box, Silicone hoses, OEM intercooler, Powerflow twin exhaust
144,458 miles, non EGR and (wash my mouth out) K&N panel filter. Shell Fuelsave diesel with REDEX....

0-60mph 8.4 Secs (no air resistance)
0-100mph 15.9 Secs " "

192 RWHP
371 NM

(best of 3 runs)

and of course...a reason for my slipping clutch....

Good job it's a manual, that output would fry an auto box. should see off most of the V8's:D:D:D
 
I suspect my clutch won't last much longer anyway, it slips pulling off any slight uphill junction in first.....maybe a detune will do it good....eventually
 
Nice to know it was just your tick over after all. That psi box didn't seem to be helping much before adjustments .So your rev counter doesn't correspond to the actual rpm?? What was the adjustment cost ? And I don't remember you saying you had a remap box!!
 
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No i guess theres something in there that adjusts the fueling for idle to or wasnt compatible with the ecu. Mates rates was 1.5 hours labour at 75 squid and the run was free as it was his new toy he wanted to try out.

The rev counter isnt the original i dont think as the mileage doesnt match the mot records about 6 years ago so the becm mileage and displayed mileage changed. Not too bothered as it works at the moment just jave to remember 3500 is red line.
 
I suspect my clutch won't last much longer anyway, it slips pulling off any slight uphill junction in first.....maybe a detune will do it good....eventually

Do you know if you can get a heavy duty clutch for it? Check the DMF too.
 
Do you know if you can get a heavy duty clutch for it? Check the DMF too.

97 may not have the DMF, my 98 didn't. If you do the clutch make sure you replace the roll pins in the clutch release fork. I believe there are double roll pins available. when mine went I put a new clutch in just in case, nothing wrong with the old one but ...sods law if you don't.:)
 

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