Is this still the running at 2500 rpm? Could be throttle potentiometer i suppose. But i say again, has he had the pump top off? If he has and not put it back in the correct place that will cause high tickover.
Is this still the running at 2500 rpm? Could be throttle potentiometer i suppose. But i say again, has he had the pump top off? If he has and not put it back in the correct place that will cause high tickover.
jonasserra
Member
Wammers, they assure me the fuel injection pump is working as it should..
They are cheking the lines at the fuse-box, grounding...
They are cheking the lines at the fuse-box, grounding...
You said something had been changed on the FIP. Did they remove the top of the pump or not? Because if they did sliding it back and forth changes fuel quantity. As rpm is controlled by fuel quantity it is my bet they have loosened the pump top and it has moved. That is why it is idling fast.
jonasserra
Member
They changed my "old" FIP for an overhaulled one..("old" unit for a "new" unit)
I assume the top of the FIP wasnt messed, as the mechanic assures theres nothing wrong with it - they even changed a sensor on it during these odissy..
Could it be the electronic injector?
I assume the top of the FIP wasnt messed, as the mechanic assures theres nothing wrong with it - they even changed a sensor on it during these odissy..
Could it be the electronic injector?
So with the old pump it ticked over at 750 rpm with the new one it ticks over at 2500 rpm. Does it not make you think the new one maybe set up wrongly. Just because it is a new pump does not mean it is setup correctly. I think it's the pump. Did they play with the pump top when they changed the sensor. Ask them, because if they did that is the cause of your problem.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I agree with Wammers, the FIP is not set up properly.
jonasserra
Member
Yep, the car run fine for about 5000km after fitting a "new" engine an FIP.
But i will insist with the mechanic to double check the FIP.
The car is in a bosh center (where the FIP was fitted) as the first diagnostic (made by my usual mechanic) pointed to an error at the FIP
He's checking the ground connections...
I think i mentioned this before. Try to explain as better as i can.
In oldier cars, when you cut the air, the mixture is richear...more fuel and pushing up the revs. So, engaging first and even second gear, just relising the cluntch the car would start rolling.
In my case, even with idle very high, i dont think its over-fueling, cause in first and second gear, if i dont speed, the car seems to stall, its very bumpy.
Normal state, you engage first and smothly release the cluntch...if i do this, the car looks like is going to desintigrate...have to speed like a street racer...
(sorry this very poor explanation...english is not my native language..hope you can understand me..)
But i will insist with the mechanic to double check the FIP.
The car is in a bosh center (where the FIP was fitted) as the first diagnostic (made by my usual mechanic) pointed to an error at the FIP
He's checking the ground connections...
I think i mentioned this before. Try to explain as better as i can.
In oldier cars, when you cut the air, the mixture is richear...more fuel and pushing up the revs. So, engaging first and even second gear, just relising the cluntch the car would start rolling.
In my case, even with idle very high, i dont think its over-fueling, cause in first and second gear, if i dont speed, the car seems to stall, its very bumpy.
Normal state, you engage first and smothly release the cluntch...if i do this, the car looks like is going to desintigrate...have to speed like a street racer...
(sorry this very poor explanation...english is not my native language..hope you can understand me..)
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jonasserra
Member
Dont know if it as something to do with it, but the EAS is blocked at the bumps
Datatek
Well-Known Member
jonasserra
Member
No connection other than going too fast on terrible Portuguese roads
LOL...almost right!
(althought our roads are almost the last barely good things we've got..)
Ok....the EAS is stucked at his lowest position...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Really? Last time I was there, outside of towns and away from the tourist strip the roads were the worst I had seen anywhere in Europe. Not pleasant for touring on a motorbike
Bring some of your roads over here then. Pothole dodging is fast becoming Britains number one sport. They are thinking of making it an Olympic event next year and that would be one gold medal for us for sure.
jonasserra
Member
We are neer bankruptcy due to our leaders spend fortunes in highways and other major roads.....right now here in my city, we are fixing the streets for a car race (wtc or something alike..)
Thought bikers liked chalenging roads....
We use to say that we break our land rovers driving in the roads rather than off-roading....but dont tell it to anyone..
Thought bikers liked chalenging roads....
We use to say that we break our land rovers driving in the roads rather than off-roading....but dont tell it to anyone..
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Challenging twisty tarmac roads yes, fecking dirt roads full of holes deep enough to hide a hippo not quite the same on a 150mph tourer. Interesting that I could do 50 miles on a dirt road, come to a short stretch of dual carriage way, a flyover and then back onto dirt roads. Junction improvements apparantly paid for with EU grants
jonasserra
Member
This is kind of third world country....around big cities, all is fine and prety (well.....almost).
About EU funds.....mate, i didnt vote in the guys that are (mis)ruling my country. They spent EU funds like there was no tomorrow (as we use to say).
At the country side, we find the most strange things...but hey, its my country and i love it....and it looks like lots of strangers also...
ahhh...i was trying to find a cure to my rangie...just arrived..
It was the crankshaft sensor....
Looks like it was sending an erratic signal although it was electricaly good (machine didnt point that way). Mechanic changed it just in case...and there it was the culprit.
Thanks all for the support!!!
About EU funds.....mate, i didnt vote in the guys that are (mis)ruling my country. They spent EU funds like there was no tomorrow (as we use to say).
At the country side, we find the most strange things...but hey, its my country and i love it....and it looks like lots of strangers also...
ahhh...i was trying to find a cure to my rangie...just arrived..
It was the crankshaft sensor....
Looks like it was sending an erratic signal although it was electricaly good (machine didnt point that way). Mechanic changed it just in case...and there it was the culprit.
Thanks all for the support!!!
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Well there you go. Another one in the memory bank.
mgmayo
Active Member
This may help regarding alternator charging discussed earlier.
I had been experiencing similar problems for many months and reached a solution today.
I had regular charging voltage of 13.6v but still battery charge deteriorated with short run use after maybe a week, so I would have to trickle charge.
My eventual conclusion from other posts was that the regulator/brush set needed replacing. I found this hard to source but it is available from woodauto.
My RR is a 95 2.5dt, fitted with a valeo, so search for A13V176 or 2542126.
However i bought from german fleabay for less money. The surprise was that it was an english made part from mobiletron, part VR-VW010.
It's easy to replace, no need to remove the alternator, easy to get to by removing the back cover.
I fitted it this morning and straightaway charging is up at 14.4v So happy days hopefully. I will report back with a summary in a week.
I had been experiencing similar problems for many months and reached a solution today.
I had regular charging voltage of 13.6v but still battery charge deteriorated with short run use after maybe a week, so I would have to trickle charge.
My eventual conclusion from other posts was that the regulator/brush set needed replacing. I found this hard to source but it is available from woodauto.
My RR is a 95 2.5dt, fitted with a valeo, so search for A13V176 or 2542126.
However i bought from german fleabay for less money. The surprise was that it was an english made part from mobiletron, part VR-VW010.
It's easy to replace, no need to remove the alternator, easy to get to by removing the back cover.
I fitted it this morning and straightaway charging is up at 14.4v So happy days hopefully. I will report back with a summary in a week.
mgmayo
Active Member
Update
Running for week now with new reg/brushs. Runs at 14.3-14.5v. Batt volts in eve 12.5v dropping to 11.95 in morning. So yesterday did current test. When becm at sleep still 0.4a flow. Took out fuses in turn. When either 39 or 41 were taken out current drops to required 0.04a. Therefore left them out overnight and batt was 12.35v this morning. Will investigate boards of fusebox tomorrow after seeing how to on rangerovers.net.
Running for week now with new reg/brushs. Runs at 14.3-14.5v. Batt volts in eve 12.5v dropping to 11.95 in morning. So yesterday did current test. When becm at sleep still 0.4a flow. Took out fuses in turn. When either 39 or 41 were taken out current drops to required 0.04a. Therefore left them out overnight and batt was 12.35v this morning. Will investigate boards of fusebox tomorrow after seeing how to on rangerovers.net.
Fuse 39 feeds fuel pump relay. Fuse 41 feeds horn relay.
