W

wimble

New Member
as i was fitting a new stero in my car yesterday
the live wire tuched the earth and evry thing went dead
i went to check the fuse at the bottem of the seat for the dash clocks
and found a 30amp fuse fitted (it should be a 10amp)
i replaced the fuse with a 10amp but now the stereo rev counter speedo fuell and tempreture gages dooesnt work and the lcd display for the heaters and the one on the dash clocks just flash
have i burnt something out
i have checked for a dead short
any ideas
 
I have exactly the same problem.posted the problem on here and got a couple of replies.Tried out the replies but still nothing.My stereo works but keep havin to enter the code when turning on.all dash is dead and cannot find a resolution.if you do please please let me know.
 
westhamboy said:
I have exactly the same problem.posted the problem on here and got a couple of replies.Tried out the replies but still nothing.My stereo works but keep havin to enter the code when turning on.all dash is dead and cannot find a resolution.if you do please please let me know.
Click to expand...

If you have to put the code in everytime you use radio, you have lost the perminent live feed to the radio required to maintain settings. This can only be a fuse blown somewhere. You should have two live feeds to radio, I think one is red and one is yellow. One on all the time and one switched from ignition. You will need to check which is which with a volt meter. Sorting this live feed may just sort your dash problem.

PS Instruments and one live to radio are driven from fuse F1 10amp. Other live from fuse F8 30amp. Look at both these fuses. Would think F1 is your problem.
 
Last edited:
Originally the fuse blew ,I changed it 3 times but it kept blowing so I left it till next morning put in a new fuse and it did not blow but the dash/stereo clock etc still does not work.will try the volt meter on the live from the stereo.Anotherr one which puzzles nme is that the clock only works now when ignition is on ?
 
westhamboy said:
Originally the fuse blew ,I changed it 3 times but it kept blowing so I left it till next morning put in a new fuse and it did not blow but the dash/stereo clock etc still does not work.will try the volt meter on the live from the stereo.Anotherr one which puzzles nme is that the clock only works now when ignition is on ?
Click to expand...

You have something crossed up somewhere. How did a live wire touch earth, have you been playing with the radio plugs? If your just plugging a radio in there are no bare wires to touch anything. If the clock only comes on with ignition you have somehow got the perminent live and switched live transposed somewhere. Lesson is, when playing with electrics be a lot more careful.
 
westhamboy said:
thats the problem I never touched anyhting it just happened drivin down the road
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry got you mixed with OP. Maybe you have developed a bad earth somewhere causing an interaction. The fuse box maybe a good place to look. Some things on the Range Rover work by polarity reversal. Were switching of diodes changes the current flow. A good example would be the diesel fuel pump relay, which is activated by cranking the engine, but when the engine starts and the key is released there is a polarity reversal and the relay is held in by current from the alternator whilst the engine is running. Think you may need a sparky to take a look at it. Bit too complicated to sort out on here i would think.
 
i have taken my car to a range rover garage in morden he said to look at the bcem(get it fixed)
does this sound right
 
Sorry to tag along but I've just suffered the same problem last night, my own fault I've done a DIY job on a satnav wired in and an aftermarket DVD stereo and wanted to wire in some rear head rest monitors, there were bare wires all over the place and one in particular a red wire leading to the stereo with a fuse in it labled 2 - 2 on the top of it.

I checked that fuse and it was indeed blown, :doh: I repleased it with a 5 amp fuse but still the same issue - HEVAC blinking on and off as well as both footwell lights and nothing shown on the dash? Do I need to change that blown fuse with the exact one, I assumed the 2 -2 meant it was a 4 amp fuse hence placing 5 in but no go :confused:??

I'm woried I may have damaged the car electrics in some way, I do hope its not affected the BECM as in the last posts diagnosis from the dealers, as I know they are very expensive to replace!? I hope its the fuse but I've learnet my lesson now so if I can the car lit up again, I'm booking a pro to wire up all the bloody gizmos! :(
 
I know it's been a while.

Evil stewie, I have the same symptoms, what do I need to do to sort this issue?
 
Sounds to me that if F1 blew, and then has blown a few more times, and now doesn't blow - that chances are the track on the power board in the BECM is now burnt out. It's probably fixable.

You would want to make sure that the short is definitely fixed before putting a repaired BECM back in though so it doesn't do it again.

I've seen it (and fixed BECMs) a number of times where something in the dash has shorted out - usually from an aftermarket install of something - and burnt through the track on the BECM. One I had here was so bad it had pretty much ripped the copper track off the circuit board in places.. that one just got a replacement power board. But if it's only blown in one place, then it's usually easy enough to bridge the bad area with some decent copper wire.
 
taffi_jj said:
Fixing a becm sounds expensive. Is the track in question easily identified? Is this a common thing?
Click to expand...

Only one way to find out, take it apart and have a look. Be careful with those ribbon connectors as they're fragile.

Alternatively, start a "conversation" and ask Marty how much to do it for you. Maybe do that first as it might save you a lot of hassle.
 
Thanks all. I think I am going to start simple and work up to going to companies cap in hand. I'm in south wales (locked down like others) so I have a few weeks to make things worse first lol.
 
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