Datatek
Well-Known Member
No need to touch the hub nut unless you are changing the CV joint.
ok, so a plan for tomorow is to do the brake disc method (yessss!!! more smacking 
) . use my wheel bolts and tightn it up with my impact, and use some wtf their called? washers yes
the wheel bolts didnt quite reach all the way into the disc to let it get all the force of smack so gonna use some washers. So theres no play in the disc.
so, yes gonna smack the brake disc from behind Then i'll just have to wait for my new discs and pads... The old pads were horrific, missing 1/4th of the braking surface.. putting thoose back would be fine for a couple days, but tbh, could never known if they'd just suddently dissapeared while braking
and, gosh i hate not moving forward with my fixes
) . use my wheel bolts and tightn it up with my impact, and use some wtf their called? washers yes the wheel bolts didnt quite reach all the way into the disc to let it get all the force of smack so gonna use some washers. So theres no play in the disc.
so, yes gonna smack the brake disc from behind
Then i'll just have to wait for my new discs and pads... The old pads were horrific, missing 1/4th of the braking surface.. putting thoose back would be fine for a couple days, but tbh, could never known if they'd just suddently dissapeared while braking and, gosh i hate not moving forward with my fixes
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Wedges in the bolt bosses is, I think, the best way.ok, so a plan for tomorow is to do the brake disc method (yessss!!! more smacking
the wheel bolts didnt quite reach all the way into the disc to let it get all the force of smack so gonna use some washers. So theres no play in the disc.
so, yes gonna smack the brake disc from behind
and, gosh i hate not moving forward with my fixes
Thats the thing i've done from start, using 2 different sizes of chissels and 1 small screwdriver, i just can't seem to "wedge it in" When i'm hammering, i am just deforming the metals inbetween. Maybe less than 1mm gap has been created, but not along the whole, just slight around the bolt boss on the upper part. Used a can of juice, and heat cycled.
Isn't chissels the best tool to use wedging? Or do i need something more sharp and formed more as a flathead screwdriver?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I used a small cold chisel ground down a bit at diagonally opposite points.
Ok, i'll try to ground down a bit for the wedge to be seated nicely, you don't ground down at the bolt bosses right? but right beneath/besides them i assume?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The bolt bosses form a bulge, I just grind a little way into that bulge along the joint line with a 1mm cutting disc. I have had 4 hub assemblies out using that method with a few whacks top and bottom.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Yeah but if he ends up needing a 3 legged puller he will.
I think it's heading that way.
I used every method possible including the beating the brake disc method and gave up. Puller whipped it off easy. Pressure from that with some blows and the hub moved, thread on the puller went loose , retighten puller, more blows rinse and repeat.
.Poor bugger hasn't got to the hard bit yet
.I'll first do datateks strategy, then i'll do the brake disc, then i'll do the puller. Can't lose the hammer streak.
I know the 3 legged puller will 100% save me for alot of effort and work, but it costs like 40$ also so.... if not more idk might even be less..
I dont really have a torque bar that goes to 260 either, i heard their 260nm somewhere. And i actually like thoose weird tools.
god damn i just want it off
and whats the hard bit anyhow? The ball joints? I have a c press which should be sufficient anyhow. just hope their not welded shut on there by the rust.. Their atleast not welded so guess thats a good sign the bore isnt to wide yet..
I know the 3 legged puller will 100% save me for alot of effort and work, but it costs like 40$ also so.... if not more idk might even be less..
I dont really have a torque bar that goes to 260 either, i heard their 260nm somewhere. And i actually like thoose weird tools.
god damn i just want it off
and whats the hard bit anyhow? The ball joints? I have a c press which should be sufficient anyhow. just hope their not welded shut on there by the rust.. Their atleast not welded so guess thats a good sign the bore isnt to wide yet..
When you use the c press, wind on the présure and tap around the ball joint housing. It will move a little and put some more pressure on with the press. Oil thread on the press as well.
When you use the c press, wind on the présure and tap around the ball joint housing. It will move a little and put some more pressure on with the press. Oil thread on the press as well.
We did that and it still bent on #8. Still, better to do it than not do it, I guess. I wonder if we'd have done better filling the threads on the tool with grease?
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Use CV grease on the threads it's better than oiling, a bit messier but you can't have everything.
But I want it all...... Like not replacing the bloody radiator every 2yrs
But I want it all...... Like not replacing the bloody radiator every 2yrs
Only replaced mine once and that was only because I sheared the gearbox cooler pipe off.
I bought a bigger chissel, got some washers, took the brake disc on etc, tightend it fully down to the hub and smacked it from behind.
I can't say it did anything, i just have a tiny gap somewhere between the hub and the swivel joint, but it does not seem to grow any..
Also purchased a better penetration fluid, supposed to be quite good stuff. (GT7 By Tec7)
i did however fix some other MOT issues anyhow..
Now im letting it sit with the "better" penetration fluid for the day. Hopefully, its off tomorrow by either the chissel or brake disc method. If not, i will do the puller on friday. I suppose i must have the wheel on, and on ground for removing the drive nut? Otherwise it will be harder to figth i suppose.
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I can't say it did anything, i just have a tiny gap somewhere between the hub and the swivel joint, but it does not seem to grow any..
Also purchased a better penetration fluid, supposed to be quite good stuff. (GT7 By Tec7)
i did however fix some other MOT issues anyhow..
Now im letting it sit with the "better" penetration fluid for the day. Hopefully, its off tomorrow by either the chissel or brake disc method. If not, i will do the puller on friday. I suppose i must have the wheel on, and on ground for removing the drive nut? Otherwise it will be harder to figth i suppose.
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
You have to ease it out parallel or it will jam.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Next time fit a GEMS V8 RAD.But I want it all...... Like not replacing the bloody radiator every 2yrs
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
But I want it all...... Like not replacing the bloody radiator every 2yrs
I have only had one rad go in 15 years and that was the original that split along the top.
