Anti roll bar yes, but I like it with little less roll and more rock
Just pushed the radius bushings out with the special tool.( LRT-60-004) Worked like a charm. Used just bellow 5 ton before they popped. Used about 4 ton installing.
I did not usy any grease, neither did i do any sanding/polishing of the inside. It was looking all shiny there, with no "nuppings"
superb tool, worked just as it should..
The inner metal liner in the old bushes was completly loose.. (the middle part) so the radius arm could sway pretty decently left-right movement.. like 2-3 cm play or more..
Now i just gotta mount the roll bar on, (with new links and d bushes) and the radius arm, then continue my way over to the ball joints...
Everythings ruuuuusty in that area...
I'm just gonna mentally prepare myself, but..
Is ball joints easier, or harder to do in anyones experience? I have c press/clamp.
Is it hard getting the hub off?
I'm watching videos 24/7 before doing my installs, goes so much easier.
and God damn how hard the rear front nut on the radius arm was... and having it in such a bad spot.. the shock is blocking the nut quite a bit with that large stud...
Also, im sad i guess, to inform you that i've ordered a model 3 (not coming before 2023 tho)
I run trou 5000€ just in diesel commuting work-home so the model 3 will save me some pain...
Just pushed the radius bushings out with the special tool.( LRT-60-004) Worked like a charm. Used just bellow 5 ton before they popped. Used about 4 ton installing.
I did not usy any grease, neither did i do any sanding/polishing of the inside. It was looking all shiny there, with no "nuppings"
superb tool, worked just as it should..
The inner metal liner in the old bushes was completly loose.. (the middle part) so the radius arm could sway pretty decently left-right movement.. like 2-3 cm play or more..
Now i just gotta mount the roll bar on, (with new links and d bushes) and the radius arm, then continue my way over to the ball joints...
Everythings ruuuuusty in that area...
I'm just gonna mentally prepare myself, but..
Is ball joints easier, or harder to do in anyones experience? I have c press/clamp.
Is it hard getting the hub off?
I'm watching videos 24/7 before doing my installs, goes so much easier.
and God damn how hard the rear front nut on the radius arm was... and having it in such a bad spot.. the shock is blocking the nut quite a bit with that large stud...
Also, im sad i guess, to inform you that i've ordered a model 3 (not coming before 2023 tho)
I run trou 5000€ just in diesel commuting work-home so the model 3 will save me some pain...
Have you got the abs sensor out before you pull the hub? It'll catch on the drive shaft metal shroud otherwise.
okay well i did the radius arm yesterday, took me a bout an hour to get both bolts aligned was hard holding a crowbar under there.. would've been simpler with a scissor lift or what theyre called Everythings torqued up, i also changed the D bushes on the rollbar, including the links. They did all seem to be in ok condition, but swapped them as they were going out anyhow..
I started to take off stuff now so i can begin with the ball joints. I had that 19mm 12 edge bolt at my brake carrier, and my 19mm spanner didnt fit it... so i kinda gave up and though i needed a 20mm, but however i just took a hammer and smacked the 19mm on as it was only rust/dirt on there.. so all ok
Now i just need to seperate the hub from the driveshaft assembly and i only have 1 nut left to remove, the top balljoint nut before smacking out the balljoints
So now:
-Seperate hub
-remove ball joints
-press in new ball joints
-assemble the sh*t i've pulled off..
Then i gotta drain my transmission fluid due to the plug leaking.. what a bugger.. I purchased some permatex supra blue, which should be OK with chemicals/fluids appart from gas and fine to use in -54C to +205C so that should be fine to use as drain plug "washer" i suppose..
so i got some fresh fluids
Also gotta find out where my engine coolant goes... (it leaks, according to the MOT) So yay not my head gasket. Hopefully i can just plug it with rtv
theen remove my highly illegal led beams from wish... also gotta change 2 bulbs, and my main beams are led.. so thats gonna be hard
My front brake pads are baaaaaad so gotta order some new pads, also one of the gliding pins is stuck on Not expensive stuff, but i don't have time to order from England, and wait due to MOT closing up , not that much extra work anyhow. Brake pads are easy, i've moved on from thoose easy stuff
Doesnt help that my left hand wrist hurts, and my right shoulder hurts either
I grind a small groove in opposing bolt bosses where the hub and carrier meet, a thin cold chisel can then be inserted in the groove, a few whacks with the club hammer top and bottom had them out in no time.I am really struggling to get the Hub out
I managed to get the brake shield off by smacking a 7mm socket on the bolts.
The abs sensor was STUCK, and i mean STUCK, it ended up that the cap flied away, while the rest of the sensor is inside the bore.
Smacked the hub for 2 hours, no progress. Used flatscrews, chissels, smacked them with a hammer in that sweet middle spot between the hub and the swivel hub, no budge.
I hate it, i am so eager to swap the balljoints, and looking forward to do it, but that hub just decides to say no
If the ABS even wouldn't get out, hoooow am i suppose to get the whole hub out...
i've blasted everything with the juices
I've heard putting the hub bolts half way in, and then smacking them with a hammer should eventually pop it out, but is this true?
and is it OK? the bolts seem to be longer than just the threads in the hub, is there threads in the sviwel hub aswell?
Gotta say, all that hammering is exhausting me
I am really struggling to get the Hub out
I managed to get the brake shield off by smacking a 7mm socket on the bolts.
The abs sensor was STUCK, and i mean STUCK, it ended up that the cap flied away, while the rest of the sensor is inside the bore.
Smacked the hub for 2 hours, no progress. Used flatscrews, chissels, smacked them with a hammer in that sweet middle spot between the hub and the swivel hub, no budge.
I hate it, i am so eager to swap the balljoints, and looking forward to do it, but that hub just decides to say no
If the ABS even wouldn't get out, hoooow am i suppose to get the whole hub out...
i've blasted everything with the juices
I've heard putting the hub bolts half way in, and then smacking them with a hammer should eventually pop it out, but is this true?
and is it OK? the bolts seem to be longer than just the threads in the hub, is there threads in the sviwel hub aswell?
Gotta say, all that hammering is exhausting me
Aye, the ABS sensors are a real barstewardI had to use a 3 legged puller on mine BECAUSE the abs sensor was stuck real solid, IMHO you won't get the hub off by hammering stuff IF the abs sensor is still in. The steel shroud around the drive shaft has got to tear itself away from the sensor, you'll struggle to tear that metal by hammering.
Two choices that I can see, drill the sensor out, that's not easy, or use a puller and damage the shroud.
My shrouds could be rescued and a slot cut in them afterwards will enable shaft removal without removing the abs sensor.
I butchered the remains of the abs sensor out with the hub in a vice on my work bench and it was not easy, trying to get mine out in situ would have been next to impossible.